I know it's not close enough, but since I don't own a stand it would have to be enough. When I did my first measurement I put it on the headrest of my computer chair and adjusted the height to be at ear level.
I could try doing some off-axis measurements next week, but first I will tweak the XO.
Outdoors measures will have to be for next week, if I find the energy to do it. Would have to carry my whole computer setup (24" monitor, stationary computer and so on) along with speakers, stands, amplifiers and all that.
Yes I am, but I need a way to play test tonesAnd I have no laptop available.
Right forgot about that part
Long cables out the bedroom window? And an associate to operate the 'puter?
dave
Right forgot about that part
Long cables out the bedroom window? And an associate to operate the 'puter?
dave
I don't want to take my setup into the street of a residential area with a lot of small kids running around. People would think I'm crazy. If I shall do an outdoors test I'll do it in the backyard and point the speakers away from the house (would be about ~5m to the nearest wall then).
just for fun you might want to measure the SP levels in the school woodworking shop with a table saw, the dust extractor and a couple of hand held routers running
the spectral content of some of those would be particularly revealing, and while that's beyond the scope of a simple SP meter like the RadioShack, the RTA apps for smart phones are very interesting to watch - in a moving car, and the work shop (RTA Lite for iPhone has a 1/3 Octave display function )
the spectral content of some of those would be particularly revealing, and while that's beyond the scope of a simple SP meter like the RadioShack, the RTA apps for smart phones are very interesting to watch - in a moving car, and the work shop (RTA Lite for iPhone has a 1/3 Octave display function )
I see:
You have a room mode around 55hz.
There seems to be a lot of room suck outs in this range.
That's weird.
Probably the starts of cone break up here.
Considering this is in-room and a 4" driver, if you are at all off axis, you're seeing beaming and loss of power response.
I'm actually not surprised. My measurements also show a large suck out right there.
I've spent a little time with this driver (not this cabinet) and these results are not that surprising to me considering your setup limitations and that it's an in-room response.
What were you hoping to get out of this?
Can you give us point form exactly your requirements for a speaker in your room. Size. SPL. Budget. Listening distance. Etc. I've seen several of your threads and you're still trying to find THE speaker for you. 105db peaks in a small room is easy with $2000.
You have a room mode around 55hz.
There seems to be a lot of room suck outs in this range.
That's weird.
Probably the starts of cone break up here.
Considering this is in-room and a 4" driver, if you are at all off axis, you're seeing beaming and loss of power response.
I'm actually not surprised. My measurements also show a large suck out right there.
I've spent a little time with this driver (not this cabinet) and these results are not that surprising to me considering your setup limitations and that it's an in-room response.
What were you hoping to get out of this?
Can you give us point form exactly your requirements for a speaker in your room. Size. SPL. Budget. Listening distance. Etc. I've seen several of your threads and you're still trying to find THE speaker for you. 105db peaks in a small room is easy with $2000.
Aren't most of us here kind of in that space Ryan?
What sort of sustained SPL? Don't want to sound preachy, but hearing damage can be easy too!
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Which one? The thing is, the EL70 wont hit 105dB peak levels at listening position.
For nearly a year I've been working with this: http://i874.photobucket.com/albums/ab306/tuxedocivic/Challenger/DSC_0965.jpg
It's 4ohm but an honest 93 or 94db/2.83V/m including baffle step compensation. With solid state power it would hit peaks of 111db @1m with 128 watts. So an easy 105db peaks at 3m distance. I've done the power compression testing to know
Put each side on top of a good bass woofer that is fairly sensitive and also lots of power. Put a minidsp in front to eq and such.
As far as sound quality, I've heard better (more refined). But for brute force dynamics with clean peaks it doesn't break a sweat. When I listened to my first prototype I was grinning ear to ear while watching Shrek with my kids. We had it really cranked. Doesn't hurt the ears like smaller speakers struggling to do it. Very natural sounding at those levels. All that in a relatively small package.
There are other choices also. Ewaves in that small room might be tough. But you could go that way also. Some pro stuff is blech. Careful.
It's 4ohm but an honest 93 or 94db/2.83V/m including baffle step compensation. With solid state power it would hit peaks of 111db @1m with 128 watts. So an easy 105db peaks at 3m distance. I've done the power compression testing to know
Put each side on top of a good bass woofer that is fairly sensitive and also lots of power. Put a minidsp in front to eq and such.
As far as sound quality, I've heard better (more refined). But for brute force dynamics with clean peaks it doesn't break a sweat. When I listened to my first prototype I was grinning ear to ear while watching Shrek with my kids. We had it really cranked. Doesn't hurt the ears like smaller speakers struggling to do it. Very natural sounding at those levels. All that in a relatively small package.
There are other choices also. Ewaves in that small room might be tough. But you could go that way also. Some pro stuff is blech. Careful.
Sure, I'm not home right now so I don't have my measurements and stuff. But it's 2 silver flute w20. The 8ohm 8"ers. The tweeter is an SB29RDCN-0004 in a Dayton Audio 8" waveguide. I have an active and a passive cross over made up for it. It has extention down to 80hz or more without any kind of excursion issues. So a cross over to a sub around there is really slick. They cost about $250 each to build. Maybe less. The passive cross over is very simple.
I originally did it with home theatre in mind while trying to keep it somewhat small. It's 10" x 26" iirc. And 14" deep maybe. Maybe only 12" deep. Sealed. I also wanted something that bridges the gap between pro and hifi.
I've compression tested it and it doesn't give up anything. But I haven't gotten around to doing polars on it. Just so much going on.
There are many other designs out there that'll meet your needs. But I really do feel that this is a good way to go for you. The box doesn't have to have that slanted top. But do use better material than 1/2" particle board. If you're playing loud, it needs to be solid.
I originally did it with home theatre in mind while trying to keep it somewhat small. It's 10" x 26" iirc. And 14" deep maybe. Maybe only 12" deep. Sealed. I also wanted something that bridges the gap between pro and hifi.
I've compression tested it and it doesn't give up anything. But I haven't gotten around to doing polars on it. Just so much going on.
There are many other designs out there that'll meet your needs. But I really do feel that this is a good way to go for you. The box doesn't have to have that slanted top. But do use better material than 1/2" particle board. If you're playing loud, it needs to be solid.
Okay... Another go at the Ewave then.
Eminence Deltalite 2510 + Denovo DNA-360 Compression Driver DIY Sound Group + SEOS 12 waveguide
Crossed over at 80hz to one SDX10 per channel. It would fit in my budget, I think, and it would play loud enough.
One thing I wonder about though, could I change the Deltalite 2510 for something else that has better midrange but still goes down to 80Hz without problems?
Eminence Deltalite 2510 + Denovo DNA-360 Compression Driver DIY Sound Group + SEOS 12 waveguide
Crossed over at 80hz to one SDX10 per channel. It would fit in my budget, I think, and it would play loud enough.
One thing I wonder about though, could I change the Deltalite 2510 for something else that has better midrange but still goes down to 80Hz without problems?
Take a look at the Delta and Beta 8 drivers. Of the two the Delta 8 has the better mechanical's, cast frame smooth cone etc. After EnABL they are truly amazing drivers. Before EnABL they do have some fairly serious resonance issues. That they have a pro audio heritage does help, you can dump huge amounts of power into them and they are very efficient. 80 Hz is not an issue.
Gary Pimm uses EnABL'd Beta8 drivers in his world class home system. Much of what he has done with cardioid /open back dual 15" woofers, in a startlingly small cabinet space, are here on diy. Before EnaBL he used two Beta 8's per side. After, he dropped one pair, as they were overpowering the woofers and tweeters, neither of which had been EnABL'd.
I intend to use the Delta 8 mounted nude under a Lowther PM6A silver voice coil 15 ohm driver also mounted nude, for my last speaker system. These will sit in an open frame on top of Dave's amazing TL tower prototypes that rest here.
Bud
Gary Pimm uses EnABL'd Beta8 drivers in his world class home system. Much of what he has done with cardioid /open back dual 15" woofers, in a startlingly small cabinet space, are here on diy. Before EnaBL he used two Beta 8's per side. After, he dropped one pair, as they were overpowering the woofers and tweeters, neither of which had been EnABL'd.
I intend to use the Delta 8 mounted nude under a Lowther PM6A silver voice coil 15 ohm driver also mounted nude, for my last speaker system. These will sit in an open frame on top of Dave's amazing TL tower prototypes that rest here.
Bud
A pair of CSS SDX7's per side, mounted magnet to magnet in a narrow, tall Fonken style box, called a slant load TL, with a slot load at the end of the narrow portion of the slant. The drivers sit at the mid point. You will have to query Plant 10 for further details, though I have seen a preliminary plan set. Best woofer system I have heard. Impedance peak is below 20 Hz and the things bring power and subtly, but minimum slam, to around 25 Hz. The only things I know of that will keep up with the other drivers intended.
Bud
Bud