I can certainly vouch for what Bud says, having heard his speakers a number of times. Those CSS bass units really work well in Bud's system, which is itself an excellent matching of components.
It's a real "Music Lover's System."
Best Regards,
TerryO
Thanks, Bud. Don't think the sdx7's are available anymore.
There are still a few kicking around.
dave
There will be more designs coming out of DIY sound group if you're patient. Better designs. I'm not sure 2 SDX10s could keep up. Also, that's a big speaker for your room. It might make for placement issues.
I'm helping Erich from diysoundgroup on the smaller designs. Just got all my Denovo stuff a few days ago. Most will be smaller than what you need, but I'm planning something using the Eminence 8". Just not sure which one yet and will be a while. Something that size would fit your room better.
Terry - got a chance to hear Gary Pimm's rig that Bud mentioned? I did back at an interlude during VSAC 2008. Now probably nobody gets to experience everything at such a show, or even any given system at its best, but Gary's was by a substantial margin the most musical thing I heard that weekend.
O fortuna, indeed
Had a go at soldering today, for the first time. Borrowed tools and equipment from a nice guy further down the street. I had a "practice kit" containing a PCB and some parts. The first solder joints were incredibly ugly and the components were most likely fried but towards the end the joints started to look good and the components barely got warm. Tinning the tip was far more important than I thought it was.
Will try soldering my 41Hz AMP6 basic tomorrow.
imgur: the simple image sharer
Click the link to see some pictures. Click the pictures to enlarge them.
Didn't have any good side cutters so I decided to leave the legs as they were.
Will try soldering my 41Hz AMP6 basic tomorrow.
imgur: the simple image sharer
Click the link to see some pictures. Click the pictures to enlarge them.
Didn't have any good side cutters so I decided to leave the legs as they were.
I had this instead
Soldered more than half of my AMP10-Basic today. Made a little mistake though so I might have messed up one of the ceramic capacitors and maybe overheated some components. But heck, If it works I'll just be extra happy. If it doesn't work, well then I've had some very cheap soldering practice thinking of that I bought the kit for like $10
There are some JBL stuff for sale.
JBL 3678 for 5000SEK/ea, with 2226H and 2426H+2342 horn.
Then some other JBL PA-speakers for unknown price
JBL JRX125
JBL SR4725X
And a pair of JBL 2226J woofers. Is there anything of this that I should buy? Isn't the JBL 2226 pretty good for what I need and want?
JBL 3678 for 5000SEK/ea, with 2226H and 2426H+2342 horn.
Then some other JBL PA-speakers for unknown price
JBL JRX125
JBL SR4725X
And a pair of JBL 2226J woofers. Is there anything of this that I should buy? Isn't the JBL 2226 pretty good for what I need and want?
I thought the JBL2226 could be used at listening distances of 2-3m too, or am I wrong?
It's not whether the 2226 can be listened to that close, it's whether the system as a whole can. So, I assume you'd put a SEOS15 or something similar on top. The vertical polars are going to be a large part of the direct sound and largely influence the sound power in your room, considering your listening distance. You'd easily hit 105db with maybe 32 watts, but the 900hz region will be a mess. I'm not speaking from experience really, because the only pro applications I've listened to were at over 6m.
I'm not against pro sound. I'm against bad application. Even thinking back to my previous recommendation of the 8" might not work all that great because of the lower woofer. Originally I rolled it off like a 2.5way, but in the end I didn't. So scrap that too.
What kind of speaker in the hifi shop was achieving 106db? And how far back were you sitting? Maybe this can be a good starting point.
I wish there was a 10" SEOS10 design, because that would probably work out for you.
I'm not against pro sound. I'm against bad application. Even thinking back to my previous recommendation of the 8" might not work all that great because of the lower woofer. Originally I rolled it off like a 2.5way, but in the end I didn't. So scrap that too.
What kind of speaker in the hifi shop was achieving 106db? And how far back were you sitting? Maybe this can be a good starting point.
I wish there was a 10" SEOS10 design, because that would probably work out for you.
Why will the 900Hz region be a mess? Is there something about acoustics that I don't know but should know? Enlighten me, I'm willing to learn!
What kind of speaker in the hifi shop was achieving 106db? And how far back were you sitting?
I'm not 100% sure but it was a System Audio floorstander, probably SA Ranger, SA Explorer, or SA Ranger Master. But I felt that the sound wasn't very clean at those levels. The bass was very nice though, but could've been a bit deeper.
I was sitting at about the same distance as at home, which is about 2.5-3m. The room was about the same size as my room, but probably better acoustics. Stuffed full of loudspeakers and soft armchairs.
What kind of speaker in the hifi shop was achieving 106db? And how far back were you sitting?
I'm not 100% sure but it was a System Audio floorstander, probably SA Ranger, SA Explorer, or SA Ranger Master. But I felt that the sound wasn't very clean at those levels. The bass was very nice though, but could've been a bit deeper.
I was sitting at about the same distance as at home, which is about 2.5-3m. The room was about the same size as my room, but probably better acoustics. Stuffed full of loudspeakers and soft armchairs.
900hz was a guess of where the xo would be. It's gonna be between 800 and 1000hz I'd say. Vertically, the sound will shift. Here's an example of a small MT I recently measured with a 3000hz cross over:
That's below axis, so think floor bounce. See how messed up the 3khz range is on different axis? That's what I'm talking about. For this particular application, it's ok. Because it's a $50 speaker and above axis is quite uniform. See:
How those plots affect you depends on the following:
1. Spacing between drivers;
2. Cross over frequency;
3. Listening distance.
It's one of the things full range enthusiasts can brag about, righfully. That's my quick and dirtly explanation.
If one of those System Audio speakers can do it : SA explorer introduktion
Then it's not going to take much. I can see a few reasons from just a picture why it wasn't clean sounding and bass wasn't deep.
I think you should still consider pro drivers with horns and compression drivers. But find a really well thought out design. Those plots from above are a small speaker that uses a compression driver and uses an 8 part cross over. You can't cheap out on the cross over when using pro gear.
For your listening room and distance, find something small but sensitive and add subs.
This might be a good start: SEOS12 with Designer10 Woofer
To bad it's not a better woofer though.
That's below axis, so think floor bounce. See how messed up the 3khz range is on different axis? That's what I'm talking about. For this particular application, it's ok. Because it's a $50 speaker and above axis is quite uniform. See:
How those plots affect you depends on the following:
1. Spacing between drivers;
2. Cross over frequency;
3. Listening distance.
It's one of the things full range enthusiasts can brag about, righfully. That's my quick and dirtly explanation.
If one of those System Audio speakers can do it : SA explorer introduktion
Then it's not going to take much. I can see a few reasons from just a picture why it wasn't clean sounding and bass wasn't deep.
I think you should still consider pro drivers with horns and compression drivers. But find a really well thought out design. Those plots from above are a small speaker that uses a compression driver and uses an 8 part cross over. You can't cheap out on the cross over when using pro gear.
For your listening room and distance, find something small but sensitive and add subs.
This might be a good start: SEOS12 with Designer10 Woofer
To bad it's not a better woofer though.
Making some plans....
A 2-way top-speaker with maybe 8" woofer/midrange and some kind of compression driver+horn maybe?
And then build four vented CSS SDX10 cabinets, stack two of the together and use as stands.
Was thinking of powering the subs with the AMP15-PS XP from 41Hz Audio - Main page and then power the top speakers with the AMP10-Basic also from 41Hz. XO with miniDSP?
A 2-way top-speaker with maybe 8" woofer/midrange and some kind of compression driver+horn maybe?
And then build four vented CSS SDX10 cabinets, stack two of the together and use as stands.
Was thinking of powering the subs with the AMP15-PS XP from 41Hz Audio - Main page and then power the top speakers with the AMP10-Basic also from 41Hz. XO with miniDSP?
Niklas,
Agree - subs need power. A few days back didn't you put together a 41Hz amp - Or am I mistaken?
For your room (~160 sq ft) - refer to post #6- how does that sound? You can start with the Mar-Kel70 as mid-tweet?
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/full-range/216318-full-range-program-content.html
8" sub drivers for little money (haven't tried it though):
http://oaudio.de/Loudspeaker-chassi...::4532.html?XTCsid=kuhepe7afg0n2tp79701jrndg5
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Hmm, took you a while
Not completed, but follow these builds:
DW-774S/DNA150 + Celestion TF0818 design/build
DNA-150 in a SEOS12
Yes, I have one half finished AMP10-Basic and one little less finished AMP15-PS XP. That is 2x100w + 2x300W.
I don't think the Mar-Kel70 can play loud enough, to be honest. But yes, I can always finish my amplifiers and start with building two SDX10 cabinets to stack on my current subwoofers.
Thanks Tux, will look at them as soon as I get time.
I don't think the Mar-Kel70 can play loud enough, to be honest. But yes, I can always finish my amplifiers and start with building two SDX10 cabinets to stack on my current subwoofers.
Thanks Tux, will look at them as soon as I get time.