Mar-Kel70 in Sweden

frugal-phile™
Joined 2001
Paid Member
With dedicated woofers, you'd likely go with sealed or aperiodic midTL for the EL70 (as in Tysen). With a single SDX7 per box, Tysen is pretty close to what you'd end up with, a bit wider to accomodate the EL70 and its chamber would need to be larger.

You commit to th drivers, i'll draw something, at this point, the slate of a zillion other drawings in my queue are ahead.

dave
 
Sealed or aperiodic midTL for EL70, what's the difference and how will the different types affect the sound?

Yes, i will get the drivers. But i'm a little interested in that coating for the SDX7. I'm not sure if it's anything i'd like to do on my own since it could just make them a whole lot worse or destroy them completely.

Don't feel rushed about drawing them.
 
Sealed or aperiodic midTL for EL70, what's the difference and how will the different types affect the sound?

Yes, i will get the drivers. But i'm a little interested in that coating for the SDX7. I'm not sure if it's anything i'd like to do on my own since it could just make them a whole lot worse or destroy them completely.

Don't feel rushed about drawing them.


just to give you a sense of enclosure topology (subject to adjustment as described for EL70 ) take a look at:

http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/atta...tysen-variations-fast-tysen-trapezoid-0v8.pdf


as for sealing of weaved cone on SDX7, Dave could advise - IIRC the basic treatment isn't all that complicated, but the EnABL is something you'd probably want to practice on first
 
frugal-phile™
Joined 2001
Paid Member
As for sealing of weaved cone on SDX7, Dave could advise - IIRC the basic treatment isn't all that complicated

Easy Peasy. You'd have to be pretty inept, or drunk, to screw that one up. You just have to orient the driver so that any material flows away from the voice coil gap and err on the side of too little per coat (you do as many coats as needed to get rid of the worst of the rustling)

dave
 
Easy Peasy. You'd have to be pretty inept, or drunk, to screw that one up. You just have to orient the driver so that any material flows away from the voice coil gap and err on the side of too little per coat (you do as many coats as needed to get rid of the worst of the rustling)

dave


oh no you dinnit - dare a teenager to try something while inebriated, why that would be irresponsible

but seriously, nik might need advice on the materials and application techniques
 
frugal-phile™
Joined 2001
Paid Member
You can't get to that amp from their main page... it has a pre out but no power amp in... a serious shortcoming in any integrated amp... it reads like a zillion other integrated amps, not to say it is not a nice amp.

A passive XO would restrict ultimate quality (it could still sound really good), you'd need to design from the ground up, pushing the XO to 200-300 Hz, and you'd need 2 SDX7 to bring the sensitivity up to meet the EL70. The cost of XO parts (especially if you consider all the ones that had to get bought, but not used in the end, to get it right), would likely cost more than 2 or 4 channels of chip-amp. And the higher power usually means a compromise in the mid-top.

dave
 
Nik - you do realize that the next step on your journey to true DIY audiophilia is to construct your own electronics - of which there are more than enough choices offered on this site alone to make the selection of speaker projects seem like child's play

let me whisper in your ear "tubes"
 
Okay, so the way to go is building my own amplifiers then... One with the little less power for EL70 and one with a little more power for the SDX7...

I'm still a little worried about that since i haven't soldered anything before at all. Maybe i'll wait a little with that and construct a headphone amplifier first which costs a little less than the speaker-amplifiers.