Yes Terry, They will be ordered the day after the protorype is confirmed, we don't want all of you to have to go through modifying the traces as happened on the last KSA-50 board.
I am awaiting a call back from Advanced right now for the prototypes. I should get the prototype up and running a couple of days after that. Am hoping I can get the prototype boards for this weekend since its a long weekend.
Mark
I am awaiting a call back from Advanced right now for the prototypes. I should get the prototype up and running a couple of days after that. Am hoping I can get the prototype boards for this weekend since its a long weekend.
Mark
pinkmouse said:
Not really. As a matter of fact I just bought a pair of the original boards. Now I'm contemplating waiting for the new ones instead. One of these amps will be plenty for me. I have a bunch of amps already. I mainly want to build it for the experience and to see what the fuss is about class A amps. I may go ahead and build the originals boards with T-03 outputs so I can compare. The heatsinks I have now won't work well with T-03's though.
Blessings, Terry
An other quick mod. I taught that it will be a good idea to give to the standby portion of the circuit, control of the fans.
Using JP2, it is possible to select two modes of operation for the fans:
-Always On when the amp is power on.
-Turn of in standby mode and turn-on when in Power On mode. Controlled by the standby function.
Using JP2, it is possible to select two modes of operation for the fans:
-Always On when the amp is power on.
-Turn of in standby mode and turn-on when in Power On mode. Controlled by the standby function.
Terry,
The new board design is ALOT better design and gives you more flexibility in construction but the old board does work after modificatio. The fact that there is a seperate driver board alone eliminates alot of the hassle with the old board in mounting the drivers and bias devices to the main sink which some of have found to be a more efficient method of sinking those devices. Doing so with the original is doable but difficult as you have to extend the length of the devices leads and then work to attach them at the end of the main board. It gets pretty messy! I will be rebuilding my 50 with the new boards as soon as I get em.
Mark
The new board design is ALOT better design and gives you more flexibility in construction but the old board does work after modificatio. The fact that there is a seperate driver board alone eliminates alot of the hassle with the old board in mounting the drivers and bias devices to the main sink which some of have found to be a more efficient method of sinking those devices. Doing so with the original is doable but difficult as you have to extend the length of the devices leads and then work to attach them at the end of the main board. It gets pretty messy! I will be rebuilding my 50 with the new boards as soon as I get em.
Mark
Would it be possible to have a mode to run the fans till the sinks cool down below a certain temperature?
Another idea wood be to have a servo circuit to control the speed of the fans and keep the sinks at a preset temp. no matter what the surrounding temp.... within linits of course. I would prefer a DC speed control of some sort to adjust the speed. Perhaps a simple adjustable regulator I.C. or something similar.
Mark
Mark A. Gulbrandsen said:Ok, we are above the 100 mark for both the main and output boards now. Al and I are considering getting a prototype board made up by the board house so it can be built up and verified working.
Also.... its looking like about $14.00 U.S. per board plus S&H if we go with the slowest production method of 30 days. Is this ok with all you that have plased your order on the WIKI or would you like them via quicker production at a price of about three dollars higher each? PLease gove some feedback on this one and we need all to be happy with the price and production that is decided upon.
I also think we should have a cut off for the WIKI that occurs right after I can confirm that the PCB prototype is good. This would also allow us to extend the WIKI by about another week or two.
_____________________________________
Here are the specs for the boards so far......
Layers: 2
0.093" FR4
Dimensions: 4.1" x 8.25"
Plating: SMOBC
Cu Weight: 2 oz.
Inner Layer Copper Weight: 0.5
Trace width/space: 0.01
Smallest hole size: 0.024"
Soldermask: Both Sides with LPI
Soldermask Color: Blue
Legend: Top Side
Legend Color: White
Scoring: Yes
_____________________________________
Feedback pleeze.
Thanks,
Mark
Mark,
All that looks good to me
I'd prefer it to be a little cheaper, since I'm buying a few, so don't mind waiting a month.
I'm still down for 6 mains and 6 outputs but I'd like to cancel on the PSU's boards. They don't really do what I'm wanting so I'll DIY those.
Let me get this straight though:-
I'm wanting to tri-amp some 3 ways. What exactly do I need for a stereo set? I don't want to order and find that I haven't got enough so am I right in assuming 6 main boards and 6 output boards? It is 3 output devices per output board so should my ouput boards actually be 12?
Al, I'd appreciate it if you could just set this straight for me and then I can quickly adjust the WIKI if needed.
You just need 6 full boards, with the 6 pairs of attached output boards at c. 14$ per channel.
In old terminology, 6 main boards, 6 output boards.
We will be working out a scheme to swap for those that don't want output boards with those that want extra, obviously with a small price adjustment.
:edit: you're just too fast for me mate!
In old terminology, 6 main boards, 6 output boards.
We will be working out a scheme to swap for those that don't want output boards with those that want extra, obviously with a small price adjustment.
:edit: you're just too fast for me mate!
