is your power amp clipping all the time? if so, your drivers get toasted easily this way..
thank you for the information. i pressumed these are Raon price. According to its price, it seems that pro1815 has more or less the same capability with the Neusch PD 1850.
is the 1000 watts @ 4 ohms? accordingly, the T&T are rated 500W per driver. i have no experience with Crell amps.i think it should not have problems with driving a T&T at 4 ohms. it seems that T&T could not bear it.
the L36 has a longer horn too, and variants in the throat design/compression section matter a lot. a heat sink is a good idea, but the heat sink plate is usually placed not inside the closed chamber, but allowed to feel fresh air outside like the AB36.
regards
Attachments
@ amants,
Thanks for the effort of posting the photos.
You got some array of transistors there.
Any idea of the rail voltages?
Best Regards
I'm sorry sir pero di ko na kc tiningnan ung rail voltage nya,basta I open & take a photo thats it,at dko n rin magawang tingnan s ngaun kc bumalik n ako d2 s korea for work.
hello guys its been a while i got very busy,
you can attach a heat sink to the back plate of the speakers, but a better solution I found so far was to "extend" the pole piece of the speakers (i.e. using a machined aluminum billet ala EV TIR thermo inductive ring) and get rid of those aluminum voice coil former since your former acts as a "one short turn of a wire" it has eddy current circulating on the former itself further heating it up. I also had a good result winding my voice coil using the Inside/Outside winding technique, It is a technique use by RCF in winding their voice coils to combat power compression due to heat build up.
hope this helps
regards,
audiomachines
bad news nga talaga yan sir,nakabalik n ako d2 s korea sir,ung mobile sounds ok n gumagana na.crell ca25 din ung pang base ko at sventa ma10 ung pang mid at high,neusch pd1850 ung speaker ko.apat n subzero ,2 double mid w/tweeter at 2 tweeter n may sariling box,maganda din nman 2munog ung neusch ,
ah ganyan pala ang rail voltage nya,so maybe soundstandard ca series is better than crell ca series, or they are only the same
ah ganyan pala ang rail voltage nya,so maybe soundstandard ca series is better than crell ca series, or they are only the same
2rail (2steps) and 3rail (3steps)Class-H circuitry switches or step up into high power rail only when needed.
It will result in much greater efficiency and less destructive heat. So it runs cooler. The design will not only maximizes power, but also improves long term reliability.
Basically 3 steps H is better than 2 steps Class H.
I reckon Soundstandard Techno series, though same power as CA series but only uses analog switch to power ON, has 3 rails.
VL = -/+ 55volts DC
VM = -/+ 110 volts DC
VH =-/+ 170 volts DC
The QSC PL9 proven to be a monster amp and subwoofer toaster uses a 4 steps Class H.
All the best
good day to all.
what capacitor value should i use for my crown ht-104 tweeters rated at 150watts? i'm currently using 2.2 uF/50v but it is frequently blown.
i'm using it with a locally made mixer amp rated at 300watts(?). also, i noticed that the tweeters are producing loud and harsh highs even at 30% power. so, i guess i'm not overpowering it.
thanks.
what capacitor value should i use for my crown ht-104 tweeters rated at 150watts? i'm currently using 2.2 uF/50v but it is frequently blown.
i'm using it with a locally made mixer amp rated at 300watts(?). also, i noticed that the tweeters are producing loud and harsh highs even at 30% power. so, i guess i'm not overpowering it.
thanks.
it is not your tweeters, the size of the capacitor does not matter that much.....it is your amp that is probably clipping all the time.....and i bet it is not even 300watts...
busted speakers
good day and holiday greetings audiomachine,
i have these pair of speakers that i used 20 years ago as surround in a mini theater. these are jbl g 250w series that were assembled locally. recently, we were using it at a scounting jamboree using a BTS 350w@amp, when one of the speaker just went dead. then the following day the other speaker followed. i brought it to audiophile repair shop in marikina, but they said phaseout na. they do not have the spare parts.
another incident, using the same amp, one of the woofer our jrx115s 250w also got busted during a championship basketball game.
questions, do you think they were over driven? if it were to be repaired not using original parts, would you think they can sound at least near to its original state?
thanks
good day and holiday greetings audiomachine,
i have these pair of speakers that i used 20 years ago as surround in a mini theater. these are jbl g 250w series that were assembled locally. recently, we were using it at a scounting jamboree using a BTS 350w@amp, when one of the speaker just went dead. then the following day the other speaker followed. i brought it to audiophile repair shop in marikina, but they said phaseout na. they do not have the spare parts.
another incident, using the same amp, one of the woofer our jrx115s 250w also got busted during a championship basketball game.
questions, do you think they were over driven? if it were to be repaired not using original parts, would you think they can sound at least near to its original state?
thanks
good day and holiday greetings audiomachine,
i have these pair of speakers that i used 20 years ago as surround in a mini theater. these are jbl g 250w series that were assembled locally. recently, we were using it at a scounting jamboree using a BTS 350w@amp, when one of the speaker just went dead. then the following day the other speaker followed. i brought it to audiophile repair shop in marikina, but they said phaseout na. they do not have the spare parts.
another incident, using the same amp, one of the woofer our jrx115s 250w also got busted during a championship basketball game.
questions, do you think they were over driven? if it were to be repaired not using original parts, would you think they can sound at least near to its original state?
thanks
can you measure the DC offset on the output binding post of the amplifier sir? (with the amp input muted)
yes sir your speaker can be restored, but it will depend on the skills, "EAR" and sourcing of parts of your repair tech.
is it a jbl g135 sir?
if the cone is still intact, only the voice coil should be rewound and the spider replaced and the cone can be re-dipped in lacquer to restore to its original stiffness.
happy holidays,
audiomachines
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