Have any of you more...able designers come up with an application for these little guys? I just recieved a pair and am trying to figure out what to do with them (which means watching what you more sophisticated builders do with them, at least for a while).
Just looking to see how they are being used.
Cheers
Matthew
Just looking to see how they are being used.
Cheers
Matthew
You can always start of with the small enclosures that Ted Jordan recommends on his site!
http://www.ejjordan.co.uk/systems/jxr6_systems.html
Regards
http://www.ejjordan.co.uk/systems/jxr6_systems.html
Regards
Hi - I'm currently using a pair of JXR6s in 2.4 litre sealed enclosures. Sound impressive for their size, even used on their own.
At present I'm experimenting with the GM MLTL JX92s to add some bass, though if anything I think the 6s might be more sensitive than the 92s. (Looking at the spec, this could be because the 6s seem to be more of a 4 ohm speaker.)
At present I'm experimenting with the GM MLTL JX92s to add some bass, though if anything I think the 6s might be more sensitive than the 92s. (Looking at the spec, this could be because the 6s seem to be more of a 4 ohm speaker.)
Design a simple passive xover around 300-500Hz or so.
Alright, I am showing my newbie-ness. Could you explain a little more about how to design this? I understand the basics of crossovers (what they do and the idea behind them.
But, how exactly do I "Design a simple passive xover around 300-500hz or so."
Thanks,
Matt
Okay, for the sake of educating myself, here are the specs for the woofer:
Impedance: 4 ohms
Frequency range: 23 - 1,000 Hz
Fs: 23 Hz
SPL: 89 dB
Vas: 3.00 cu. ft.
Qts: .44
and the other driver would be the new jordan.
So, say I want to crossover at 400hz, or so.
What do I need to build a crossover?
Impedance: 4 ohms
Frequency range: 23 - 1,000 Hz
Fs: 23 Hz
SPL: 89 dB
Vas: 3.00 cu. ft.
Qts: .44
and the other driver would be the new jordan.
So, say I want to crossover at 400hz, or so.
What do I need to build a crossover?
FWIW, I'm using the JXR6 down to box rolloff at around 100Hz with no high pass filter. The JX92 is rolled in around the same frequency with a 9mH inductor to form a first order filter. Ideally the 92 could be a second order filter but the combination seems to work fine.
There is no advantage (apart, perhaps, from ultimate power handling) in crossing the 6 at 300-500Hz. Unlike the JX53, it will work down to around 100Hz, so with a high powered woofer, 200Hz should be fine and keeps the crossover point well clear of the midrange.
I'll be interested to see which bass unit you come up with to match it.
Pics - ah yes, I keep promising these. I'll dig out the digital camera.
There is no advantage (apart, perhaps, from ultimate power handling) in crossing the 6 at 300-500Hz. Unlike the JX53, it will work down to around 100Hz, so with a high powered woofer, 200Hz should be fine and keeps the crossover point well clear of the midrange.
I'll be interested to see which bass unit you come up with to match it.
Pics - ah yes, I keep promising these. I'll dig out the digital camera.
Have a look at the Seas L22 aluminium cone drivers, that is what I'm partnering with my Bandors and the tonality seems pretty good (I wanted to keep to aluminium cones for this reason and they came up in the classifieds cheap th the time), I'd probably be looking at the Bandor 150s if I had the money (www.bandor.co.uk).
Puggie said:Have a look at the Seas L22 aluminium cone drivers, that is what I'm partnering with my Bandors and the tonality seems pretty good (I wanted to keep to aluminium cones for this reason and they came up in the classifieds cheap th the time), I'd probably be looking at the Bandor 150s if I had the money (www.bandor.co.uk).
Breakup modes of L22 is an issue if 1:st order filter are intended.
/Jesper
What sort of crossover you using with that setup?Puggie said:Have a look at the Seas L22 aluminium cone drivers, that is what I'm partnering with my Bandors and the tonality seems pretty good (I wanted to keep to aluminium cones for this reason and they came up in the classifieds cheap th the time), I'd probably be looking at the Bandor 150s if I had the money (www.bandor.co.uk).
I guess the intent of my previous post was a little confusing: I was trying to say that if a good passive crossover to a good, reasonably priced, widely available woofer were developed, many more people would be willing to get on the JXR6 band(width)wagon.
from memory I'm just running a 6.4mH laminate iron core inductor, I'll have to check. Its just from a cheapie passive Xover (there was a lovely looking electolytic cap with it to make it 2nd order ) from Maplin. I'm spending more time trying to sort the boxes for the bandors first, I have a closed well stuffed folded tapered transmission line of about 1.5l, I'm also trying this against 2l sealed box and a multi-chamber-aperiodic design or 0.6l with aperiodic vent breathing into about 2l sealed (which appears to limit cone excursion quite nicely without any electronic HPF). once I have the Bandor sorted then I'll concentrate on getting the bass side of things right.
I'm currently running the Seas sealed in about 12L with the bandor in a seperate box on top (to allow me to play with time alignment). I have a nice little 8" car audio sub that is in 0.5l with a 10" passive ratiator, that gets disgustingly low
I'm currently running the Seas sealed in about 12L with the bandor in a seperate box on top (to allow me to play with time alignment). I have a nice little 8" car audio sub that is in 0.5l with a 10" passive ratiator, that gets disgustingly low
As promised, pics of my JXR6 enclosure. Internal vol is about 2.4 litres. Once the baffle is in place, these ceramic pots are pretty rigid. Only £5.99 each from my local Homebase store and very little finishing. They are still awaiting a felt baffle to reduce reflections.
Attachments
I recently picked up a pair of these new drivers and just finished some 4 liter cabinets. When I first took the new drivers out of the box, I have to admit that I was concerned 4 liters would be too big (limit how loud I could play music). After listening for a couple of hours tonight I am quite content.
Over all I really like the sound of the new Jordan. It does sound a little forward and I wonder if it needs some baffle step correction or something. My cabinet is 5 3/8” wide. Any suggestions?
Over all I really like the sound of the new Jordan. It does sound a little forward and I wonder if it needs some baffle step correction or something. My cabinet is 5 3/8” wide. Any suggestions?
It may not need baffle step correction if you keep it close to a wall. If you can keep the drivers at different distances to the edges and use rounded or sloping edges on the front baffle.
Have a look at this article:
Baffle Step Explained
Regards,
Dean
Have a look at this article:
Baffle Step Explained
Regards,
Dean
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