Hi Andrea,
below there is the size of the dipole.
Be sure that is also the right size for you (or your driver). I don't now any other unit with such Fs=65Hz/Qts=1,36 on the market, then the CIARE CH250.
Under some circumstances (room, hard damping amp and s.o.) the walls may be to small, so it's a good idea making a modell from woods first. In Germany this 2 glasswalls are between 300-400€
The second (not so good) picture shows a rebuild of the dipoles I made some days ago. Instead of 1*18mm wooden plate I used 2* 9mm where the driver is integrated into the front plate.
I have made no measurements yet, so give me some days to do that.
Have fun!
below there is the size of the dipole.
Be sure that is also the right size for you (or your driver). I don't now any other unit with such Fs=65Hz/Qts=1,36 on the market, then the CIARE CH250.
Under some circumstances (room, hard damping amp and s.o.) the walls may be to small, so it's a good idea making a modell from woods first. In Germany this 2 glasswalls are between 300-400€
The second (not so good) picture shows a rebuild of the dipoles I made some days ago. Instead of 1*18mm wooden plate I used 2* 9mm where the driver is integrated into the front plate.
I have made no measurements yet, so give me some days to do that.
Have fun!
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Konnichiwa,
You may find even better sound by making the driver offset from to and inner edge unequal....
Some other options would include the Beyma 8AG/N 8" Driver, though with this the baffle should be a little smaller, as we have Qt = 1.6 & Fs 105Hz.
The Supravox 215 Signature Bicone (Qt = 0.8, Fs = 50Hz) works well for me on a similar size baffle, but costs real money I'm afraid.
Sayonara
nobistar said:
You may find even better sound by making the driver offset from to and inner edge unequal....
nobistar said:
Some other options would include the Beyma 8AG/N 8" Driver, though with this the baffle should be a little smaller, as we have Qt = 1.6 & Fs 105Hz.
The Supravox 215 Signature Bicone (Qt = 0.8, Fs = 50Hz) works well for me on a similar size baffle, but costs real money I'm afraid.
Sayonara
You'r right a good relation is 3:5:8 ... when the dipole is NOT standing on the floor. In the other case the wave's have no way to pass at the lower edge and must go around the left/right lower corner of the baffle.
So at first I simulated this distances with an EXCEL-sheet and found that this driver postion produces a good balance between the shortest und the lenght distances around.
Now that I have read more and more info on OB designs, I'm eager to hear it. Saw that Steve Dodd's site mentioned the use of a dbx Driverack 260 to control the rolloff. But unfortunately I do not own an amplifier with balanced outputs, so is there a good and preferably cheaper alternative to that exact model?
This has been dealt with elsewhere on this forum by KYW and others so the best thing is to do a search on all open baffle threads.
Briefly, bending the baffle like you suggest is not the same as using a straight baffle of the same dimensions. However some OB designs do use a folded baffle so as ever, try it for yourself, with your drivers, in your room.
Hi dude,
if you fold back parts of the baffle, you can´t expect it to work like a plain baffle of the same size. Some experts here seem to believe, that the effective baffle width is equal to what you see from your listening position.
What I think about it:
When you fold back the baffle sides, the dipole gradually becomes sort of a U-frame, as discussed here:
http://www.linkwitzlab.com/frontiers.htm#L
http://www.geocities.com/kreskovs/NaO-Woofer1.html
What my crude measurements on folded OBs suggest:
You should be more concerned about the baffle diffraction issues of the smaller central baffle than about the possible bass gain.
Rudolf
if you fold back parts of the baffle, you can´t expect it to work like a plain baffle of the same size. Some experts here seem to believe, that the effective baffle width is equal to what you see from your listening position.
What I think about it:
When you fold back the baffle sides, the dipole gradually becomes sort of a U-frame, as discussed here:
http://www.linkwitzlab.com/frontiers.htm#L
http://www.geocities.com/kreskovs/NaO-Woofer1.html
What my crude measurements on folded OBs suggest:
You should be more concerned about the baffle diffraction issues of the smaller central baffle than about the possible bass gain.
Rudolf
Seems to be a very good idea. If I had to do it, I would really follow Norberts (Nobistar) dimensions as published in this thread. This guy knows what he does!
If you are interested in foldable glass-wings for his open baffle, look at IKEA. Their MAGIKER glass cabinet doors are almost the right size with 94 x 31 cm for only 35€ a pair.
Good luck
Rudolf
bending new corners
Hi all,
just jumping on this thread when it comes to bent baffles.....
I was playing with that idea also , thinking of a small central baffle to hold the driver and two "wings" made from thin plywood and then bent backwards........using two strings or something to hold them in position. One could even play with the angle by adjusting the length of the strings.
But as I said, it is not more than an exercise and a CAD-rendering.....
Oliver
Hi all,
just jumping on this thread when it comes to bent baffles.....
I was playing with that idea also , thinking of a small central baffle to hold the driver and two "wings" made from thin plywood and then bent backwards........using two strings or something to hold them in position. One could even play with the angle by adjusting the length of the strings.
But as I said, it is not more than an exercise and a CAD-rendering.....
Oliver
Attachments
It doesn't have to be one big piece of glass!
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
The glass 'wings' can be removed in a few seconds and then packed with the centre section for easy transportation.
indeed, I didnt thought about that option, but still, i m a student and dont want to spend a lot of money on the glass.
here is another question.
in my search for cheap drivers, i have come across the ciare 250 (on this forum somebody used it, without an tweeter) price 47 euro
i have found another possible candidate: Senon YD 1256 U; you can find it in www.spectrumaudio.de ; the qts is 1,33, the driver is 305mm and can handle 150watt, it goes from 46-15000, but the price is only 27 euro, it will certainly need a supertweeter, what do you think of this driver. And is there a cheap supertweeter out there ?
thanx a lot guys
bye
here is another question.
in my search for cheap drivers, i have come across the ciare 250 (on this forum somebody used it, without an tweeter) price 47 euro
i have found another possible candidate: Senon YD 1256 U; you can find it in www.spectrumaudio.de ; the qts is 1,33, the driver is 305mm and can handle 150watt, it goes from 46-15000, but the price is only 27 euro, it will certainly need a supertweeter, what do you think of this driver. And is there a cheap supertweeter out there ?
thanx a lot guys
bye
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