LP350
To fly2max: Can you email me at laptops582@earthlink.net? I want to ask you about LP350 LAMP. I have been working on rebuilding LP340, LP340B,LP350 for almost 1 year. I have learned a lot from this forum.
To everyone:
I have ordered many JYS/DC special 270 watt from YWI and have had some success but not as bright as SHP original factory. YWH told me his SHP is not reliable & some do not work after 2 hours & try special instead.
I need to know if anybody has a source for original SHP 270 watt DC for LP350 (SP-LAMP-LP3E) from Pheonix Electric in Japan and reflector also. I have some prices but way too high over $100 US Dollar. I have over 100 LP340 projectors that need rebuilds.
I am happy to share my experience of rebuild with everyone. Seems hardest part is adjusting lamp to get brightest spot in reflector & how to keep it there until it can be cemented into place. I am checking into a very fast setting glue/cement for when I find brightest spot in reflector I can temperary glue in place then take reflector/lamp back out of cage to permenently cement in place.
I have ordered some products from Cotronics.com I have used their lamp potting compound Resbond 940LE and Resbond 907GF. 907GF is good but is dark grey & I like white like original. 940LE is good but must mix with 2 parts to use. Sets in oven at 150 degrees in 15 minutes.
Everyone Please share your experiences with all of us so we can easily rebuild almost any lamp quickly/easily.
Thanks,
Jim
BTW YWH is dependable & very helpful on every order.
To fly2max: Can you email me at laptops582@earthlink.net? I want to ask you about LP350 LAMP. I have been working on rebuilding LP340, LP340B,LP350 for almost 1 year. I have learned a lot from this forum.
To everyone:
I have ordered many JYS/DC special 270 watt from YWI and have had some success but not as bright as SHP original factory. YWH told me his SHP is not reliable & some do not work after 2 hours & try special instead.
I need to know if anybody has a source for original SHP 270 watt DC for LP350 (SP-LAMP-LP3E) from Pheonix Electric in Japan and reflector also. I have some prices but way too high over $100 US Dollar. I have over 100 LP340 projectors that need rebuilds.
I am happy to share my experience of rebuild with everyone. Seems hardest part is adjusting lamp to get brightest spot in reflector & how to keep it there until it can be cemented into place. I am checking into a very fast setting glue/cement for when I find brightest spot in reflector I can temperary glue in place then take reflector/lamp back out of cage to permenently cement in place.
I have ordered some products from Cotronics.com I have used their lamp potting compound Resbond 940LE and Resbond 907GF. 907GF is good but is dark grey & I like white like original. 940LE is good but must mix with 2 parts to use. Sets in oven at 150 degrees in 15 minutes.
Everyone Please share your experiences with all of us so we can easily rebuild almost any lamp quickly/easily.
Thanks,
Jim
BTW YWH is dependable & very helpful on every order.
I emailed 18wheeler about paypaling money.
A couple people have mentioned removing the ceramic cement. I had good luck by doing the following:
Remove the lamp+reflector from the assemble. Soak the bottom in water for 24-48 hours.
The cement still seems hard but if you use something sharp + hard it will break up pretty easily. I used a carbide scribe ( http://www.deltakits.com/dki-catalog/77-7.html or similar) to break up the cement. Once I got the outer layer chipped away it was easy to dig out the bulb. I was able to get pretty much all the cement out very easily. No damage to the bulb or reflector at all.
Just a suggestion - something with a point will work much better than a flat screwdriver. Drilling things out will work too, but i'd be afraid to break/chip the glass with a carbide or diamond drill bit.
A couple people have mentioned removing the ceramic cement. I had good luck by doing the following:
Remove the lamp+reflector from the assemble. Soak the bottom in water for 24-48 hours.
The cement still seems hard but if you use something sharp + hard it will break up pretty easily. I used a carbide scribe ( http://www.deltakits.com/dki-catalog/77-7.html or similar) to break up the cement. Once I got the outer layer chipped away it was easy to dig out the bulb. I was able to get pretty much all the cement out very easily. No damage to the bulb or reflector at all.
Just a suggestion - something with a point will work much better than a flat screwdriver. Drilling things out will work too, but i'd be afraid to break/chip the glass with a carbide or diamond drill bit.
superman21 said:Hi!
I bought a 150W shp lamp from ywh and replaced it in my Infocus 4800. All works fine!!!!
Ywh you are the boss!!!
Another question, i need replacment lamp for Philips cSmart LC4433 it is a 120w UHP. Would the replacement lamp be JYd or JYs, AC or DC?
Thanks!!
Regards from Slovenia
You need JYd ac for uhp.
Hi all,
@pfloydphan.... I originally had some of the plaster type stuff from ywh to fit a lamp to my Sharp PG-M15X projector, but I kept removing the bulb and re-fitting it (to try to get the focal point better), so the plaster I had left eventually dried up completely and had to be thrown away....
So, I used some "XL Fire Cement", which looks like this....
http://www.plumbworld.co.uk/0-241
It stays like soft clay in the container, so is very easy to apply, and one small 1Kg container should last for hundreds of projectors.
I think it will also be easy to remove if I need to replace the bulb again because the cement can be scraped away after. The Fire Cement can work with temperatures up to 1250 degrees celcius !, so I think it's a good solution. (I should have tried this a long time ago really.)
As "Dumfounded" says, it's difficult fitting the new bulbs to some modern projectors because their lamp housings are so short. This is why I had to remove the bulb from my Sharp PJ again (the image wasn't as bright as it should be, and it was darker in the corners.)
The image on the Sharp PJ still isn't perfect, but better than it was. I even had to snip off the last part of the screw thread on the bulb to move it further back without it stopping the cooling fan! (not recommended!)
You could try snipping off the end of the screw thread with pliers if you're desparate to get a shorter bulb, and don't mind possibly breaking a bulb in the process. You should of course make sure that the nut is in place, and that the connecting wire is underneath the nut first. Also, the internal "weld" of the bulb's wire is probably nearer the end of the screw thread, so you have to take the risk that the remaining wire still contacts the screw thread!
So, if you can find something similar to Fire Cement where you are, you might find it a bit easier to install the new bulb. I still haven't found a good way of aligning the bulb yet other than to get it as close as possible to where the original bulb was, then apply a small amount of cement just to hold it loosely in place, then move the bulb slightly (with the power off!), then try again.
Another way would be to find something non conductive that can withstand the high temperatures (like ceramic or something) so that you can hold the end of the bulb with it, then move the bulb around while the power is on (DANGER - high voltage and UV / IR hazard !!!).
(At the factory, they obviously have a jig which has controls for moving the bulb around in the reflector while the lamp is lit, then sensors detect how good the brightness and uniformity is on the screen.)
I can't think of any better way to align the bulb other than while it's in the projector so you can visually see the difference on the screen, or use a cheap lux meter to find the best brightness / uniformity. This also ensures best alignment with the projector's own optics.
OzOnE.
@pfloydphan.... I originally had some of the plaster type stuff from ywh to fit a lamp to my Sharp PG-M15X projector, but I kept removing the bulb and re-fitting it (to try to get the focal point better), so the plaster I had left eventually dried up completely and had to be thrown away....
So, I used some "XL Fire Cement", which looks like this....
http://www.plumbworld.co.uk/0-241
It stays like soft clay in the container, so is very easy to apply, and one small 1Kg container should last for hundreds of projectors.
I think it will also be easy to remove if I need to replace the bulb again because the cement can be scraped away after. The Fire Cement can work with temperatures up to 1250 degrees celcius !, so I think it's a good solution. (I should have tried this a long time ago really.)
As "Dumfounded" says, it's difficult fitting the new bulbs to some modern projectors because their lamp housings are so short. This is why I had to remove the bulb from my Sharp PJ again (the image wasn't as bright as it should be, and it was darker in the corners.)
The image on the Sharp PJ still isn't perfect, but better than it was. I even had to snip off the last part of the screw thread on the bulb to move it further back without it stopping the cooling fan! (not recommended!)
You could try snipping off the end of the screw thread with pliers if you're desparate to get a shorter bulb, and don't mind possibly breaking a bulb in the process. You should of course make sure that the nut is in place, and that the connecting wire is underneath the nut first. Also, the internal "weld" of the bulb's wire is probably nearer the end of the screw thread, so you have to take the risk that the remaining wire still contacts the screw thread!
So, if you can find something similar to Fire Cement where you are, you might find it a bit easier to install the new bulb. I still haven't found a good way of aligning the bulb yet other than to get it as close as possible to where the original bulb was, then apply a small amount of cement just to hold it loosely in place, then move the bulb slightly (with the power off!), then try again.
Another way would be to find something non conductive that can withstand the high temperatures (like ceramic or something) so that you can hold the end of the bulb with it, then move the bulb around while the power is on (DANGER - high voltage and UV / IR hazard !!!).
(At the factory, they obviously have a jig which has controls for moving the bulb around in the reflector while the lamp is lit, then sensors detect how good the brightness and uniformity is on the screen.)
I can't think of any better way to align the bulb other than while it's in the projector so you can visually see the difference on the screen, or use a cheap lux meter to find the best brightness / uniformity. This also ensures best alignment with the projector's own optics.
OzOnE.
pfloydphan
Do you know if it had power supply problems before ?
Any indicators such as lights ? Fans working okay? etc...
If you need to diagnose supply problems sounds like childsid would be your man.
If he can figure out the problems with those difficult LP 340 projectors sounds like he could help you with your glitch.
BTW:
Hey childsid,
What is the main problem with those power supplies on those LP 340b projectors?
The numbers look so impressive on them it's such a shame they all have those problems.
YWH,
Thanks for posting the measurement.! Very helpful !
Do you know if it had power supply problems before ?
Any indicators such as lights ? Fans working okay? etc...
If you need to diagnose supply problems sounds like childsid would be your man.
If he can figure out the problems with those difficult LP 340 projectors sounds like he could help you with your glitch.
BTW:
Hey childsid,
What is the main problem with those power supplies on those LP 340b projectors?
The numbers look so impressive on them it's such a shame they all have those problems.
YWH,
Thanks for posting the measurement.! Very helpful !
i dont know about power supply problems, i bought it on ebay, worked great up until the lamp blew, exploded i guess and started to smoke.
but now.. the fans work fine, the fan stays on the entire time, its just the lamp goes on and off. i cleaned up that one terminal, should i put it back in and see if that was the problem? its a bit tighter too, i thought something was just short circuiting.
EDIT: there are no indicator lights lit either. i think the power light was blinking, i forget though.
but now.. the fans work fine, the fan stays on the entire time, its just the lamp goes on and off. i cleaned up that one terminal, should i put it back in and see if that was the problem? its a bit tighter too, i thought something was just short circuiting.
EDIT: there are no indicator lights lit either. i think the power light was blinking, i forget though.
Sounds like that was likely your problem.
At first it sounded like it could have been a thermal problem too.
It wouldn't hurt to temporally hook a couple of pigtail wires to the terminals and AFTER startup and I stress AFTER startup and it's running test the voltage and monitor it a little in case it happens again.
At first it sounded like it could have been a thermal problem too.
It wouldn't hurt to temporally hook a couple of pigtail wires to the terminals and AFTER startup and I stress AFTER startup and it's running test the voltage and monitor it a little in case it happens again.
no, it did it again. it made like a little electrical sound like s omethign was short circuiting :/ maybe its the other terminal. i think its "arching" so i must have something loose, somethings not making a connection right. you sound like you know what you're doing, i don't. do you think i can send you the lamp and you can check the connections, wire it up for me? how much would ya charge?
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Naw, I really haven't had a lot of lamp repair go through my hands, not enough to do the repair gig for someone else. I have a lot to learn really I'm just hanging on and being I do amp tech work I know a bit more on the electrical side than the lamp side.
Sounds like it's a DC lamp according to your post: http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?postid=1084663#post1084663
Are you sure you have the terminals hooked up correctly as in + and - ?
I think YWH had a posting on that and a pic. You might want ot check with him.
Sounds like it's a DC lamp according to your post: http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?postid=1084663#post1084663
Are you sure you have the terminals hooked up correctly as in + and - ?
I think YWH had a posting on that and a pic. You might want ot check with him.
i hooked them up exactly as the stock lamp was. the big screw type terminal in back and the wire coming out of the lamp. i don't know which are + or - though. but there is however a left over wire from the last installation. maybe i put the wire in the wrong place.... see i don't know what i'm doing, do you know of somebody else who might be able to do this for me? then i can see it then i'd know how it looks in the future. because i think if i had the +& - mixed up i wouldnt even see anything, it would go booom! i was at least able to see my DVD player screen, the picture came up on the screen, it just doesnt stay on.
Proxima DP5800 Power supply problem?
pfloydphan
Sounds like you have it hooked up correctly , still try and test the voltage and polarity and do it like I mentioned AFTER start up. That is if it will anymore..
That's about my limit on trying to diagnose on your DC lamp apps. sorry but there's other variables that I may not be aware of being I mostly stay on the AC side of lamps.
I'd say leave this subject open for further discussion on here and there's so many good folks on here I'm sure someone will chime in.
pfloydphan
Sounds like you have it hooked up correctly , still try and test the voltage and polarity and do it like I mentioned AFTER start up. That is if it will anymore..
That's about my limit on trying to diagnose on your DC lamp apps. sorry but there's other variables that I may not be aware of being I mostly stay on the AC side of lamps.
I'd say leave this subject open for further discussion on here and there's so many good folks on here I'm sure someone will chime in.
Proxima DP 5800
pfloydphan,
Just a thought, It may be a shot in the dark ( no pun intended)
Trim some of that wire off ( In your pics) that you have close to the cage and loosen that plate in the back and move it away from your neg terminal a little .
You may have some arching going on there on startup with all that amperage .. you know,, like spark plugs arcing..
pfloydphan,
Just a thought, It may be a shot in the dark ( no pun intended)
Trim some of that wire off ( In your pics) that you have close to the cage and loosen that plate in the back and move it away from your neg terminal a little .
You may have some arching going on there on startup with all that amperage .. you know,, like spark plugs arcing..
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