throwit, does this mean you've already got one working with the bypass?
I can't forsee any problems with running a PJ without a ballast. Many projectors run the main power supply constantly, and when the ballast is turned off, it shouldn't draw much current anyway so it should be almost as good as disconnected when off (in most cases).
I just tried my Philips ballast while shorting the "C E" pins of both of the other optos, but the lamp still just powers on for a few seconds before turning off again. I have an idea this ballast is faulty anyway, as I do remember swapping it for the ballast in another Sanyo at one point.
No matter, I'm not too interested in the Sanyo as I'm gonna sell it on as faulty, so this was just a quick experiment for future reference with the Phillips ballast.
I can't forsee any problems with running a PJ without a ballast. Many projectors run the main power supply constantly, and when the ballast is turned off, it shouldn't draw much current anyway so it should be almost as good as disconnected when off (in most cases).
I just tried my Philips ballast while shorting the "C E" pins of both of the other optos, but the lamp still just powers on for a few seconds before turning off again. I have an idea this ballast is faulty anyway, as I do remember swapping it for the ballast in another Sanyo at one point.
No matter, I'm not too interested in the Sanyo as I'm gonna sell it on as faulty, so this was just a quick experiment for future reference with the Phillips ballast.
no, not with the bypass, just previous experiments running the projector without a lamp
i have a 240 and a 250, the 240 was my first pj, and the 250 is my main machine whilst i get the 240 sorted, then i can swap the best bits (led lamp and 1024x768 lcds into one machine)
if you think it might be compatible with your sanyo, you could have the 150w psu/ballast the day after my test if you like
i have a 240 and a 250, the 240 was my first pj, and the 250 is my main machine whilst i get the 240 sorted, then i can swap the best bits (led lamp and 1024x768 lcds into one machine)
if you think it might be compatible with your sanyo, you could have the 150w psu/ballast the day after my test if you like
The ballast would be for my Proxima DS1, or for when I get a better PJ off eBay (XGA DLP would be nice)
I'm selling the Sanyo as "knackered". Shame though, as it's XGA, and the Proxima is only SVGA. I've really gone off buying LCD PJ's lately, as the blue panels are often burnt-in.
Anyway, good luck with your experiements.
OzOnE.
I'm selling the Sanyo as "knackered". Shame though, as it's XGA, and the Proxima is only SVGA. I've really gone off buying LCD PJ's lately, as the blue panels are often burnt-in.
Anyway, good luck with your experiements.
OzOnE.
thanks, i need all the luck i can get !
i thought i could stick pins in the two terminals (of the small white connector) and tape them together - as a non desctructive way to try this out
yeah, my lp250 was a "tested" ebay buy, arrived with cooked green polarisers...ggrrrrrrr !, so my one working pj was cobbled together using lp240 light channels and polarisers, lp240 ballast and lamp, and lp250 lcds and lens
i thought i could stick pins in the two terminals (of the small white connector) and tape them together - as a non desctructive way to try this out
yeah, my lp250 was a "tested" ebay buy, arrived with cooked green polarisers...ggrrrrrrr !, so my one working pj was cobbled together using lp240 light channels and polarisers, lp240 ballast and lamp, and lp250 lcds and lens
Crikey! Projector is now made by Frankenstien then
You could just stick wires in the connector (if they're thin enough), but be sure to use the correct pins, as I don't think the projector would like it's "A C" pins shorted!
I've also got an InFocus LP725 collecting dust here because the blue panel is fried. (big purple blur in the center of the image). I haven't seen anything I can use as a replacement for months, so I'll have to sell that one off too.
I wish someone knew where I could buy the LCD panels from. It's impossible to find any info on them, let alone actually buy them.
OzOnE.
You could just stick wires in the connector (if they're thin enough), but be sure to use the correct pins, as I don't think the projector would like it's "A C" pins shorted!
I've also got an InFocus LP725 collecting dust here because the blue panel is fried. (big purple blur in the center of the image). I haven't seen anything I can use as a replacement for months, so I'll have to sell that one off too.
I wish someone knew where I could buy the LCD panels from. It's impossible to find any info on them, let alone actually buy them.
OzOnE.
ah, did you say PURPLE ?
forgive my foolishness (and probable wrongness), but have you opened it up ?...i saw purple, and it was carbonisation of the green polariser blocking the green light, leaving the red and blue, equalling purple
yeah, those lcds are like flying saucer hubcaps !
but if i'm right, you need a polariser (forgive me if i'm way off, not borne of arrogance, just trying to help)
...thought the live pins would work well on my 'ex-boss' voodoo doll collection
forgive my foolishness (and probable wrongness), but have you opened it up ?...i saw purple, and it was carbonisation of the green polariser blocking the green light, leaving the red and blue, equalling purple
yeah, those lcds are like flying saucer hubcaps !
but if i'm right, you need a polariser (forgive me if i'm way off, not borne of arrogance, just trying to help)
...thought the live pins would work well on my 'ex-boss' voodoo doll collection
No, actually, it was probably a yellow blob. But sure enough, blue polarizer and panel both burnt. The green and red panels seem to be fine.
I think they're Sony panels LCX-blahblahblah, but there doesn't seem much point in trying to find where to buy them.
Also, another reason for me wanting DLP projectors, is I also want to watch proper 3D movies on the big screen using two projectors and polarizer sheets. I've got some glasses I pinched from the Shrek 4D show at Universal Studios LA! God, I am cheap.
I think they're Sony panels LCX-blahblahblah, but there doesn't seem much point in trying to find where to buy them.
Also, another reason for me wanting DLP projectors, is I also want to watch proper 3D movies on the big screen using two projectors and polarizer sheets. I've got some glasses I pinched from the Shrek 4D show at Universal Studios LA! God, I am cheap.
Yes, connecting together the first two wires (that start on the top of the board) would accomplish the same thing.
Seems to be the exact setup as OzOnE's post indicates (#513), except it seems it's the TOP of the board, not the bottom. (Guess it depends on POV, or how the board is installed.)
If you connect those two on the cable, you should be able to do away with the ballast completely.
regards,
MAJ
Seems to be the exact setup as OzOnE's post indicates (#513), except it seems it's the TOP of the board, not the bottom. (Guess it depends on POV, or how the board is installed.)
If you connect those two on the cable, you should be able to do away with the ballast completely.
regards,
MAJ
throwit said:
I hope so. I'm hoping this will help our understanding of the optos etc. The principals should apply to almost any modern projector. You really just need to find how many signals there are, and which direction they are going (PJ to ballast or ballast to PJ).
Just to confirm, in post #513, I meant I shorted the bottom two pins of the bottom opto, not the connector! This was for trying to get the ballast to turn on without the projector.
So, there are two different reasons for shorting optos - either "getting the ballast to run without the PJ", or "getting the PJ to run without the original ballast".
OzOnE.
And i think i have found the faulty component on my lp425z board.
There is only one power mosfet on it and it is an IRFP460LC.
Here in aussieland they cost $45.- in America $5.08.
So i hope that is the part that is broken.
Still need a globe for the future because these globes only last 1000 hours
There is only one power mosfet on it and it is an IRFP460LC.
Here in aussieland they cost $45.- in America $5.08.
So i hope that is the part that is broken.
Still need a globe for the future because these globes only last 1000 hours
Hi ! OzOnE_2k3
there is about 300 ANSI lumens when the lamp and ballast is 150w, but 300 ANSI lumens would be good enough when using the projector in the dark.
but, is this ballast 270w? http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/attachment.php?s=&postid=950342&stamp=1151508639
you need ask 18wheeler about the price of ballast.
are you sure it is Sanyo PLC-XP10 ? or Sanyo PLC-XP10N:http://www.projectorcentral.com/Sanyo-PLC-XP10N.htm
Sanyo PLC-XP10NA set 150W UHP.
I never use one signal on my Eballast only soldering,I have no that projector.
Hi ! throwit
the label on my ballast says "EUC 150 A/00" too.
there is about 300 ANSI lumens when the lamp and ballast is 150w, but 300 ANSI lumens would be good enough when using the projector in the dark.
but, is this ballast 270w? http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/attachment.php?s=&postid=950342&stamp=1151508639
you need ask 18wheeler about the price of ballast.
are you sure it is Sanyo PLC-XP10 ? or Sanyo PLC-XP10N:http://www.projectorcentral.com/Sanyo-PLC-XP10N.htm
Sanyo PLC-XP10NA set 150W UHP.
I never use one signal on my Eballast only soldering,I have no that projector.
Hi ! throwit
the label on my ballast says "EUC 150 A/00" too.
Hi ywh,
Sorry to be confusing, but the ballast in my post #505 is the one I want to replace with a new one, and this is the 270W ballast....
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/attachment.php?s=&postid=950345&stamp=1151509113
The other ballast is just from my Sanyo PLC-XV15 projector, but I'm going to have to sell that one as it is in order to get some money back from it. I'm sure the ballast is broken anyway.
The 270W ballast is for a Proxima DS1. The problem with the Proxima is that it's only rated at 600 ANSI lumens even with a 270W lamp!! I think a similar lamp would be a good idea to get decent brightness out of it.
The Proxima DS1 is an SVGA DLP design, so I'm sure I can get some more light out of it. After I said the optics looked good, I'm not so sure now. It has a "frosted" lens after the lamp to diffuse the light, but it looks way too frosted to me.
Do I just e-mail 18wheeler via the diyproj address?
The actual model number of the OTHER Sanyo projector I need a lamp for is PLC-XP10E, which uses a 160W Metal Halide. This is my brother's projector (who's in Thailand).
Yes, this is the same projector as the XP10N....
http://www.projectorcentral.com/Sanyo-PLC-XP10N.htm
(I think the XP10N means North America and XP10E means Europe etc.)
I don't know if it's AC or DC though?? I might be able to find out in the next few days.
Please let me know if I should e-mail 18wheeler, and I'll ask him for the ballast and lamp prices.
Thanks,
OzOnE.
Sorry to be confusing, but the ballast in my post #505 is the one I want to replace with a new one, and this is the 270W ballast....
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/attachment.php?s=&postid=950345&stamp=1151509113
The other ballast is just from my Sanyo PLC-XV15 projector, but I'm going to have to sell that one as it is in order to get some money back from it. I'm sure the ballast is broken anyway.
The 270W ballast is for a Proxima DS1. The problem with the Proxima is that it's only rated at 600 ANSI lumens even with a 270W lamp!! I think a similar lamp would be a good idea to get decent brightness out of it.
The Proxima DS1 is an SVGA DLP design, so I'm sure I can get some more light out of it. After I said the optics looked good, I'm not so sure now. It has a "frosted" lens after the lamp to diffuse the light, but it looks way too frosted to me.
Do I just e-mail 18wheeler via the diyproj address?
The actual model number of the OTHER Sanyo projector I need a lamp for is PLC-XP10E, which uses a 160W Metal Halide. This is my brother's projector (who's in Thailand).
Yes, this is the same projector as the XP10N....
http://www.projectorcentral.com/Sanyo-PLC-XP10N.htm
(I think the XP10N means North America and XP10E means Europe etc.)
I don't know if it's AC or DC though?? I might be able to find out in the next few days.
Please let me know if I should e-mail 18wheeler, and I'll ask him for the ballast and lamp prices.
Thanks,
OzOnE.
about The 270W ballast is for a Proxima DS1.you can try this,the mH ballast. 250w is nearly 270w
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/attachment.php?s=&postid=950265&stamp=1151498025
18wheeler e-mail address: diyproj@gmail.com
I will ask him too
and take out the lamp is easy,tell your borther.
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/attachment.php?s=&postid=950265&stamp=1151498025
18wheeler e-mail address: diyproj@gmail.com
I will ask him too
and take out the lamp is easy,tell your borther.
Hi ywh,
I was hoping for a more compact ballast. I might as well just go for the 150W ballast and lamp, because I can always get another projector at a later time which has better light output with a 150W lamp.
I've e-mailed 18wheeler about the prices. I will probably just get the 150W bits though... Does 18wheeler have the 150W ballasts too?
I was just talking to my brother, but he's too busy to look at the lamp atm. Hopefully I'll figure that out some time, but he's in Thailand, so I'll just order his lamp(s) at a later date.
Is that 250W ballast an e-ballast or transformer type? It looks quite big, do you have any rough measurements for the ballast and lamp at all?
I was hoping for a more compact ballast. I might as well just go for the 150W ballast and lamp, because I can always get another projector at a later time which has better light output with a 150W lamp.
I've e-mailed 18wheeler about the prices. I will probably just get the 150W bits though... Does 18wheeler have the 150W ballasts too?
I was just talking to my brother, but he's too busy to look at the lamp atm. Hopefully I'll figure that out some time, but he's in Thailand, so I'll just order his lamp(s) at a later date.
Is that 250W ballast an e-ballast or transformer type? It looks quite big, do you have any rough measurements for the ballast and lamp at all?
early signs weren't positive - but keep reading
the top indicator leds were flashing green - on/off, red on/off, don't know precisely what that meant, but it might have been a sign that disco is coming back !
unplugged and checked the wires i'd shoved in the connector were well in, and restarted the machine...i've now had several successful power-ons, initialisations, short runs and power downs...i think we have lamp-off !
i'm currently 65 minutes into an apparentlly successful continuous run (green indicator steady-on/green), and will update what happened over some hours - if it stays running
highest temperature i recorded was one of the coils in what has been described as the split power supply - 48 deg c
only other thing is the noise !...flight 153 now taxying !...could any kind person tell me the simplest most electrically efficient fix to remove the cooling fans, or if any old led or what resistor might take their place ?...i think i should leave the small split psu fan as i reckon it's near silent...i have some 510ohm resistors - would they do for the lamp/lcd cooling fans ?...thanks from mr thick !
the torch i was charging up showed virtually nothing in the way of detail or brightness at the lens, so i may have to run the uhp lamp off my other lp, and run the wires to this modified one so it has an electrically seperated illumination to really check what the lcds are doing...to be honest, i am as doubtful as anyone that leds will really light such clonky, tortuously constructed machinery, but if there's a way, i'm determined to find it, even if 80% of the original light engine goes in the bin (well, on ebay)
thanks OzOnE and ywh !
- but keep readingthe top indicator leds were flashing green - on/off, red on/off, don't know precisely what that meant, but it might have been a sign that disco is coming back !
unplugged and checked the wires i'd shoved in the connector were well in, and restarted the machine...i've now had several successful power-ons, initialisations, short runs and power downs...i think we have lamp-off !
i'm currently 65 minutes into an apparentlly successful continuous run (green indicator steady-on/green), and will update what happened over some hours - if it stays running
highest temperature i recorded was one of the coils in what has been described as the split power supply - 48 deg c
only other thing is the noise !...flight 153 now taxying !...could any kind person tell me the simplest most electrically efficient fix to remove the cooling fans, or if any old led or what resistor might take their place ?...i think i should leave the small split psu fan as i reckon it's near silent...i have some 510ohm resistors - would they do for the lamp/lcd cooling fans ?...thanks from mr thick !
the torch i was charging up showed virtually nothing in the way of detail or brightness at the lens, so i may have to run the uhp lamp off my other lp, and run the wires to this modified one so it has an electrically seperated illumination to really check what the lcds are doing...to be honest, i am as doubtful as anyone that leds will really light such clonky, tortuously constructed machinery, but if there's a way, i'm determined to find it, even if 80% of the original light engine goes in the bin (well, on ebay)
thanks OzOnE and ywh !
throwit,
There may be problems with bypassing the ballast, but only from the point of view where projectors start getting too clever for their own good. ie. if it detects that the "lamp lit" signal is already on before the projector has even asked the ballast to turn on, the PJ might put the brakes on!
The easy way around this would be to connect an opto between the "lamp on" signal and the "lamp lit" signal so that "lamp lit" activates as soon as the PJ asks for it.
If your InFocus is working fine now anyway, then that's great.
I don't see anything wrong with 43deg at all. I'd consider anything higher than about 75deg C inside a PSU as "hot".
I don't see a problem with running the PJ without the original lamp and ballast as far as heat is concerned. You should always keep the fans running on the power supply though.
Also, it probably has a fan on the LCD panels etc. So you'd obviously need all of those when using a new hot lamp!
As for changing the fans for quieter ones, you'd need to know the average top temperature when running the original lamp - something which I'm not too sure about. Alternatively, you could look for the same sized fans with a lower noise rating and similar CFM (Cubic Feet per Minute) ratings. It's hard to find fans which push the same amount of air with less noise though.
The PJ should include a temp limit trip switch, so you could try changing the fan anyway, and I'm sure the switch should protect the lamp if the fan's not up to the job.
On a side note: I just bought a new multimeter on eBay the other day, and it arrived today. It was cheap (£17.50), and includes a very useful temperature probe!!! (not sure if I can link to eBay here, so just search for "multimeter does everything".
btw, I saw that 5500K light engine from Lamina on the other thread / forum. It looks pretty good to me. I did notice the fact that they always quote the lumens at a junction temp of 25deg C though. hmmmmm
http://www.laminaceramics.com/docs/BL_3_White_55.pdf
There may be problems with bypassing the ballast, but only from the point of view where projectors start getting too clever for their own good. ie. if it detects that the "lamp lit" signal is already on before the projector has even asked the ballast to turn on, the PJ might put the brakes on!
The easy way around this would be to connect an opto between the "lamp on" signal and the "lamp lit" signal so that "lamp lit" activates as soon as the PJ asks for it.
If your InFocus is working fine now anyway, then that's great.
I don't see anything wrong with 43deg at all. I'd consider anything higher than about 75deg C inside a PSU as "hot".
I don't see a problem with running the PJ without the original lamp and ballast as far as heat is concerned. You should always keep the fans running on the power supply though.
Also, it probably has a fan on the LCD panels etc. So you'd obviously need all of those when using a new hot lamp!
As for changing the fans for quieter ones, you'd need to know the average top temperature when running the original lamp - something which I'm not too sure about. Alternatively, you could look for the same sized fans with a lower noise rating and similar CFM (Cubic Feet per Minute) ratings. It's hard to find fans which push the same amount of air with less noise though.
The PJ should include a temp limit trip switch, so you could try changing the fan anyway, and I'm sure the switch should protect the lamp if the fan's not up to the job.
On a side note: I just bought a new multimeter on eBay the other day, and it arrived today. It was cheap (£17.50), and includes a very useful temperature probe!!! (not sure if I can link to eBay here, so just search for "multimeter does everything".
btw, I saw that 5500K light engine from Lamina on the other thread / forum. It looks pretty good to me. I did notice the fact that they always quote the lumens at a junction temp of 25deg C though. hmmmmm
http://www.laminaceramics.com/docs/BL_3_White_55.pdf
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