Hi mill,
It sounds very much like one of more transistors are shorted inside your lamp power supply causing the rectified mains voltage to go straight through to the lamp!
When 240V ac mains is converted to DC, you get a voltage of 340V DC. I'm not sure if this would kill the lamp or not, because the lamp needs an arc to get it started anyway??
I wouldn't have thought a power supply leaves 340V across the lamp when it's idle, but I could be wrong on that.
Can anyone confirm this with their own thoughts?
Also, I have an ASK Proxima DS1 projector (SVGA DLP) which has a blown power supply. I'm intending to retrofit a new ballast and power supply as I've worked out all the low voltages needed to run the processor boards....
@jwh or 18wheeler, I you still selling the electronic ballasts? Which lamp do you recommend if I was buying a new ballast to go with it? ie. is the JYd lamp more efficient than the JYs lamp etc.?
Thanks,
OzOnE.
It sounds very much like one of more transistors are shorted inside your lamp power supply causing the rectified mains voltage to go straight through to the lamp!
When 240V ac mains is converted to DC, you get a voltage of 340V DC. I'm not sure if this would kill the lamp or not, because the lamp needs an arc to get it started anyway??
I wouldn't have thought a power supply leaves 340V across the lamp when it's idle, but I could be wrong on that.
Can anyone confirm this with their own thoughts?
Also, I have an ASK Proxima DS1 projector (SVGA DLP) which has a blown power supply. I'm intending to retrofit a new ballast and power supply as I've worked out all the low voltages needed to run the processor boards....
@jwh or 18wheeler, I you still selling the electronic ballasts? Which lamp do you recommend if I was buying a new ballast to go with it? ie. is the JYd lamp more efficient than the JYs lamp etc.?
Thanks,
OzOnE.
Re: infocus LP425Z
JYd275/A.C 275W Operating Voltage 75v
Hi !
yes, you are right ,340V DC is the input Voltage of the E-ballast.
and I have still selling the 150w/AC electronic ballasts, with 150w AC lamp. they can work.
JYd lamp has shorter Effective Arc Length, that is important for a smaller LCD or DLP.
Hi !djrazz said:
JYd275/A.C 275W Operating Voltage 75v
Hi!the voltage over the lamp is about 75v, 340V DC is the input Voltage of the E-ballast.mill said:
OzOnE_2k3 said:
Hi !
yes, you are right ,340V DC is the input Voltage of the E-ballast.
and I have still selling the 150w/AC electronic ballasts, with 150w AC lamp. they can work.
JYd lamp has shorter Effective Arc Length, that is important for a smaller LCD or DLP.
Hi ywh,
The DLP chip in my projector is a 1.3 inch (quite big), would a JYd lamp work just as well as a JYs lamp for this chip?
The original lamp in the Proxima is a 270W metal halide. Do you have a price for a 250W lamp and ballast plus shipping to the UK?
If you have a lamp and ballast that's around 200W - 250W, then that would be fine. I'm not sure I would get much light out of a 150W lamp, as the Proxima was only rated at 600 ANSI lumens anyway?
Regards,
OzOnE.
The DLP chip in my projector is a 1.3 inch (quite big), would a JYd lamp work just as well as a JYs lamp for this chip?
The original lamp in the Proxima is a 270W metal halide. Do you have a price for a 250W lamp and ballast plus shipping to the UK?
If you have a lamp and ballast that's around 200W - 250W, then that would be fine. I'm not sure I would get much light out of a 150W lamp, as the Proxima was only rated at 600 ANSI lumens anyway?
Regards,
OzOnE.
Oh, also, do I just send PayPal payment directly to diyproj@gmail.com and include my postal address??
Thanks for the reply all.
I found out today that the voltage goes to 80V after approx 20 seconds.
Still DC , i have 2 lamps so instead of using or repairing the internal ballast i can use a external ballast.
Any reccomendations on the right ballast for these lamps?
ywh do you have any ballast that can be fitted to the lamp? And if yes what will be the cost plus postage to Australia.
I found out today that the voltage goes to 80V after approx 20 seconds.
Still DC , i have 2 lamps so instead of using or repairing the internal ballast i can use a external ballast.
Any reccomendations on the right ballast for these lamps?
ywh do you have any ballast that can be fitted to the lamp? And if yes what will be the cost plus postage to Australia.
Hi ! OzOnE_2k3
JYd lamp has shorter Effective Arc Length,so the image is sharp image. but JYS is good too.
and a few DLP projector set metal halide lamp, JYS=metal halide lamp
I have 270W metal halide(JYS), But I have not 270w E-ballast for JYS, I have 160w E-ballast only.
But I have other lamp,250w ,it can run in mH ballast,
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/attachment.php?s=&postid=892509&stamp=1144928087
the lamp in the PIC is double end, but I can do a single end lamp for you.
Hi ! OzOnE_2k3
yes, you can send PayPal payment to 18wheel.
Hi ! mill
I have not 270 Watt ballast can be fitted to the DC lamp,
But I have other lamp,250w ,it can run in mH ballast,
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/attachment.php?s=&postid=892509&stamp=1144928087
Hello every one, I have 150w E-ballast only.
JYd lamp has shorter Effective Arc Length,so the image is sharp image. but JYS is good too.
and a few DLP projector set metal halide lamp, JYS=metal halide lamp
I have 270W metal halide(JYS), But I have not 270w E-ballast for JYS, I have 160w E-ballast only.
But I have other lamp,250w ,it can run in mH ballast,
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/attachment.php?s=&postid=892509&stamp=1144928087
the lamp in the PIC is double end, but I can do a single end lamp for you.
Hi ! OzOnE_2k3
yes, you can send PayPal payment to 18wheel.
Hi ! mill
I have not 270 Watt ballast can be fitted to the DC lamp,
But I have other lamp,250w ,it can run in mH ballast,
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/attachment.php?s=&postid=892509&stamp=1144928087
Hello every one, I have 150w E-ballast only.
@ywh, I will have to try the 150W lamp and ballast as my power supply is beyond repair, so I've decided to retrofit a new power supply and ballast. Could I please have the total price for the 150W lamp and ballast including postage to the UK? (whichever type lamp goes with your ballast, I don't mind).
I have some useful information for anyone wanting to fit a new power supply to their Proxima DS1 projectors....
I couldn't find a service manual at all for the DS1, so I reverse-engineered the power supply and found all the voltages needed to run the main processing boards, fans, DLP chip and colour wheel etc....
These pinouts are for the main power cable, but the colours and numbers are taken for the "motherboard" end NOT the power supply end. The wires are in a different order at the power supply end. If your original power supply is definitely broken, and you want to fit another one, just chop of the power connector at the power supply end!!!.....
1. BLACK +12V (for colour wheel and fans etc.)
2. WHITE GND
3. YELLOW +3.3V
4. ORANGE +3.3V
5. RED GND
6. BROWN GND
7. GREY +5V
8. PURPLE +5V
9. BLUE GND
10. GREEN GND
11. RED +12V (for speaker amp etc.)
12. BROWN GND
So, if your Proxima DS1 has a very broken power supply, you can use these pinouts to run the main boards. You will obviously need to fit your own lamp and ballast though.
You can connect all the grounds together, and also connect the +12V lines together. The above pinouts are tested and confirmed to work fine with a PC power supply. I can't be sure that all Proxima DS1's will have the colours in the same order or different board designs, so - I accept no responsibility for any damaged caused while using this information!!!
The Proxima doesn't require a huge amount of power to run the boards. The original regulator for pin 1 (12V), is only rated at 500mA max, and pin 11 (12V) is rated at 1A max. Here are the currents found when testing my Proxima.....
+3.3V (orange / yellow) 750-1000mA in standby, 1.3A at power-on
+5V (grey / purple) 750mA in standby, 790mA at power-on
12V (black + red combined) 520ma in standby, 1A at power-on
To force the projector to turn on, you need to short the "lamp lit" photocoupler...
There are four TLP621 optocoupler devices on the lamp controller board, they are labled PC1, PC2, PC3 and PC4.... PC1 appears to be the "lamp sync" signal to the power supply and is syncronized to the colour wheel. PC2 is the "lamp on" signal to original the power supply. PC3 is the "lamp lit" or "lamp OK" signal to the motherboard and this is the one you need to short to force the projector on. I'm not sure what PC4 does, but I didn't need to use it anyway. Here's the pinout of the small 8-pin to the photocouplers....
1. BROWN PC1 anode
2. RED PC1 cathode
3. ORANGE PC2 anode
4. YELLOW PC2 cathode
5. GREEN PC3 emitter
6. BLUE PC3 collector
7. PURPLE PC4 emitter
8. GREY PC4 collector
So you need to short the green and blue wires (pins 5+6) on the small 8-pin connector which goes to the lamp controller board inside the power supply. I will try to attached some photos later.
Hope this helps someone. Maybe we can build a collection of pinouts for different projectors? @mods - please feel free to move this post as I'm not sure if there's a better place for it.
OzOnE.
I have some useful information for anyone wanting to fit a new power supply to their Proxima DS1 projectors....
I couldn't find a service manual at all for the DS1, so I reverse-engineered the power supply and found all the voltages needed to run the main processing boards, fans, DLP chip and colour wheel etc....
These pinouts are for the main power cable, but the colours and numbers are taken for the "motherboard" end NOT the power supply end. The wires are in a different order at the power supply end. If your original power supply is definitely broken, and you want to fit another one, just chop of the power connector at the power supply end!!!.....
1. BLACK +12V (for colour wheel and fans etc.)
2. WHITE GND
3. YELLOW +3.3V
4. ORANGE +3.3V
5. RED GND
6. BROWN GND
7. GREY +5V
8. PURPLE +5V
9. BLUE GND
10. GREEN GND
11. RED +12V (for speaker amp etc.)
12. BROWN GND
So, if your Proxima DS1 has a very broken power supply, you can use these pinouts to run the main boards. You will obviously need to fit your own lamp and ballast though.
You can connect all the grounds together, and also connect the +12V lines together. The above pinouts are tested and confirmed to work fine with a PC power supply. I can't be sure that all Proxima DS1's will have the colours in the same order or different board designs, so - I accept no responsibility for any damaged caused while using this information!!!
The Proxima doesn't require a huge amount of power to run the boards. The original regulator for pin 1 (12V), is only rated at 500mA max, and pin 11 (12V) is rated at 1A max. Here are the currents found when testing my Proxima.....
+3.3V (orange / yellow) 750-1000mA in standby, 1.3A at power-on
+5V (grey / purple) 750mA in standby, 790mA at power-on
12V (black + red combined) 520ma in standby, 1A at power-on
To force the projector to turn on, you need to short the "lamp lit" photocoupler...
There are four TLP621 optocoupler devices on the lamp controller board, they are labled PC1, PC2, PC3 and PC4.... PC1 appears to be the "lamp sync" signal to the power supply and is syncronized to the colour wheel. PC2 is the "lamp on" signal to original the power supply. PC3 is the "lamp lit" or "lamp OK" signal to the motherboard and this is the one you need to short to force the projector on. I'm not sure what PC4 does, but I didn't need to use it anyway. Here's the pinout of the small 8-pin to the photocouplers....
1. BROWN PC1 anode
2. RED PC1 cathode
3. ORANGE PC2 anode
4. YELLOW PC2 cathode
5. GREEN PC3 emitter
6. BLUE PC3 collector
7. PURPLE PC4 emitter
8. GREY PC4 collector
So you need to short the green and blue wires (pins 5+6) on the small 8-pin connector which goes to the lamp controller board inside the power supply. I will try to attached some photos later.
Hope this helps someone. Maybe we can build a collection of pinouts for different projectors? @mods - please feel free to move this post as I'm not sure if there's a better place for it.
OzOnE.
I found a very handy application note earlier with a 70 Watt ballast circuit for Metal Halide lamps. Many of the principals involved are the same for most modern projector lamps.
One thing I often wondered about was how the ignitor works inside most ballasts I've seen when only two wires feed the transformer part. The answer is that they use a breakdown diode, which only "fires" when the voltage reaches a certain voltage (say 360 volts). This lets the voltage to pass to an ignition coil to generate the high voltage to start the lamp (5000 to 25000 volts!)
After the lamp has ignited, the power supply then drops the voltage to the normal running voltage of the lamp (65V to 85V on average).
I saw in earlier posts that some people might want to try to build their own electronic ballasts. So, I hope this helps, as it simplifies things a bit. It's certainly helped me to better understand how these things work and possibly how to repair them.
Here's the link....
http://www.semiconductors.philips.com/acrobat_download/applicationnotes/AN10178_01.pdf
OzOnE.
One thing I often wondered about was how the ignitor works inside most ballasts I've seen when only two wires feed the transformer part. The answer is that they use a breakdown diode, which only "fires" when the voltage reaches a certain voltage (say 360 volts). This lets the voltage to pass to an ignition coil to generate the high voltage to start the lamp (5000 to 25000 volts!)
After the lamp has ignited, the power supply then drops the voltage to the normal running voltage of the lamp (65V to 85V on average).
I saw in earlier posts that some people might want to try to build their own electronic ballasts. So, I hope this helps, as it simplifies things a bit. It's certainly helped me to better understand how these things work and possibly how to repair them.
Here's the link....
http://www.semiconductors.philips.com/acrobat_download/applicationnotes/AN10178_01.pdf
OzOnE.
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