I got my new lamp. It is for commercial projection use. people use it to replace the

Status
This old topic is closed. If you want to reopen this topic, contact a moderator using the "Report Post" button.
Jump to Latest
N

NoMeGusta

Member
Joined 2005
Sanyo PLV-Z1

ywh,

I have a Sanyo PLV-Z1. I've read EVERY post in this thread. Looking at the bulb I have is hard to do because it is cemented into a reflector behind glass, but I can say that it has no globe in the center as it is a straight tube shape. The bulb also does not appear to be two filaments, but one long, large, flat "steel ribbon." It is a 130w UHP bulb.

My question is how to tell whether it is AC or DC? Having an $85 alternative for a $300 bulb that lasts under 1,000 is the only way to make this projector economical for me.

Thanks!
 
N

NoMeGusta

Member
Joined 2005
Sanyo PLV-Z1

ywh,

First, thanks for taking the time to help out everyone here.

Second, someone else posted a picture of a Sanyo PLV-Z1 bulb; though it had stopped working:

Broken Sanyo PLV-Z1 Bulb

I could take a picture of my good bulb tonight if you think that would help.

I'm no electrician, but I could get hold of a multimeter and test this. Do I touch it to the contacts that the bulb normally connect to? I just want to determine whether or not it is AC or DC, correct?

The answer to whether the bulbs you have available would work might be interesting to people since you can get this projector new for US $500. It is native widescreen and has a better compression ratio for 1080i than other SVGA projectors.
 
N

NoMeGusta

Member
Joined 2005
BadBoy,

I got a digital multimeter ($9.99 at Harbor Freight.) The bulb sits so that the bulb contacts are not exposed and are difficult to get to regardless. Do I have to attach wires to the multimeter, wedge them in there and then turn on the projector? You said attach to each end of the bulb. Did you mean the contacts, or the bulb if it were exposed (it is not; it is covered by the glass on one side.) Does the bulb actually have to be in? Thanks for helping out an electrical noob.
 
B

BadBoy

Member
Joined 2004
NNNNOOOOOOOOO!!!!!!! :bigeyes:

DO NOT HOOK UP THE MULTIMETER AND TURN THE PROJECTOR ON!!!

you'll be out $10 :D

anyway, if there are no exposed contacts that you can get at, you could try and stick some straight pins (sewing) in where the wires go into the connector, if it has that type (won't hurt anything; i do it all the time!). it's hard to help when you have no clue?! pics would be great. i guess you could also stick the pins into the wire itself- one in each. just make sure they're not touching themselves or surrounding metal. i've done this a time or two!

EDIT: i meant sticking pins in wires, not touching them together :p

and yes, the bulb has to be in for the projector to work. it has circuitry that can tell if a bulb is installed. be carefull when you first turn on the projector! the reason everybody is leary is because the bulb has a gap between the electrodes in the bulb (see post #431). to get electricity from one electrode to the other, the ballast fires a short burst of 20,000-40,000 volts to jump the gap. then there is a constant lower voltage to keep the light lit :xeye: . 20,000 volts is NOT something you want to mess with!!!

let me know if i can help more!!!

BadBoy :cool:
 
P

pepe303

Member
Joined 2005
Re: Sanyo PLV-Z1

NoMeGusta said:
ywh,

I have a Sanyo PLV-Z1. I've read EVERY post in this thread. Looking at the bulb I have is hard to do because it is cemented into a reflector behind glass, but I can say that it has no globe in the center as it is a straight tube shape. The bulb also does not appear to be two filaments, but one long, large, flat "steel ribbon." It is a 130w UHP bulb.

My question is how to tell whether it is AC or DC? Having an $85 alternative for a $300 bulb that lasts under 1,000 is the only way to make this projector economical for me.

Thanks!
Click to expand...

Here is a good description of replacing bulb in this projector. It's in German, but you will manage with babelfish. You need to register to see pictures. I recommend that forum anyway, it's simply best, with most advanced projects and detailed descriptions.

http://www.diy-community.de/viewtopic.php?t=14724

Very good results with an external ballast and cheap 150W MH bulb, you can see there how to trick the projector to start without the original lamp.

Regards
 
N

NoMeGusta

Member
Joined 2005
BadBoy, I'll take pictures tonight to give you a better idea of what I'm working with.

pepe303, dziekuje for the site! It looks promising, but the translation on several websites is completely incomprehensible for a native English speaker (with only asi asi espanol.)

Any German speakers who want to provide a summary/explanation of the above site? Should I start a new thread specific to that projector? If it can be retrofitted, I think it may be one of the best deals out there.
 
M

marek301@tlen.p

Member
Joined 2005
about this projector and about the lamp

What do you think about this projector and about the lamp?

http://www.saveonprojectors.com/product.aspx?proj_id=234

Manufacturer Refurbished!!!!!!!!!!!
Only $1299.99 + FREE GROUND SHIPPING! !!!!!!!!!

Is there the optimum relation of the quality to the price?

Is there the possibility of the location of the cheap, exchangeable bulb?

I apologize for mine not the best English.:D :D :D :D
 
G

gib

Member
Joined 2006
Kits?

Sorry if this has been asked before, but I've searched through hundreds of posts and can't seem to find an answer. Is there a kit available for any of these lamps?

I have an LP340B that needs a lamp, but I don't feel like spending $400 for a lamp.

I'm sure I can bypass the lamp circuit on this, but I'd rather go with a new power supply, ballast and starter being as this is what was wrong with these units in the first place.

Thanks
 
M

memoria1

Member
Joined 2006
What is the difference between UHP SHP VIP etc

Hi Im new in this forum, I live in Mexico City, where I bought a lot of 26 proyectors from a large company liquidation.

Most of them are infocus lp130 and lp240, optomas and epsons, they mostly have their lamp not working.

I could cost me a little fortune to make them work so I was thingthing in buying YWH the equivalent ones and install them myself.

I could provide three of the variables:

1) wattage

2) size and shape of the lamp ( picture)

3) the type of "system" where I got most of my confusion

UHP, SHP, HS, HSCR, MS, UHE, UMPRD,UHM

I think belog to the same "family" jyd ( under 2 mm)


and jds the VIPR,MHL,MSCR,SMDR ( over 2 mm)

Am I right?

Also to complete the enchilada, I wonder if I could test some of this lamps using a Philips balast EUC 150 /00 LAMP DRIVER , the picture is just like the one YWH show post 442

http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?postid=914964#post914964

It would be great to make at least light on the UHP lamps,
can I connect this philips balast directly to 120v ac power? and send a 5 volt source to the optocoupler of the little 3 pin conector?

Any help would be very much aprreciated.


Thanks !! Raul
 
P

peter2411

Member
Joined 2006
weea.nl
Philips beamer

I have a Philips bCool XG1 and looking for bulb replacement.

This commercial beamer was not in the replacemnet list
The original bulb has is cemented into the center of the reflector behind a protection glass and has a straight tube shape.
It is a 180w UHP bulb philips type LCA 3125/00. see picture
The beamer is an european type.


Thanks!
;)
 
Y

ywh

Member
Joined 2002
gzmoovi.com
Hi! everyone! the price of JYD is $60 now ;-)

Hi! qib, your lamp is 270W SHP, JYD can replace it, but do you know AC. OR DC.?

Hi! DIMSTAVROU104 I have failing in replace lamp of SONY.your lamp is 200W UHP, but have som e risk.

Hi memoria1! lp130 and lp240 are need JYD, $60 each.

Hi peter2411, JYD is your need .
 
Status
This old topic is closed. If you want to reopen this topic, contact a moderator using the "Report Post" button.
Top Bottom