Oh, i see, you mean bypassing the fans too! I'm not quite sure about that one because you'd need to send the RPM pulses to the mainboard to keep it from shutting down again. You could try connecting the RPM wire on one of the other fans to the connector where the removed fan went (PSU fan if it has three wires)??
Right, here goes.... What does everyone think about possibly building our own Dynamic Iris for fitting to you projectors?? I'm pretty good with PIC programming, and can simulate the motors etc. on the PC. I was thinking of using a small stepper motor, but you could even use a voice coil motor if it was powerfull enough.
The only other problem (other than the fact that I'm useless at metalwork), is how to guage the average brightness of the video image, and how to switch the iris to each video input. Of course, on modern projectors, this is all done digitally, but I don't think we'll have that option somehow!
Perhaps this subject is a new-thread starter? Or, has anyone seen any other threads about building a Dynamic Iris?
OzOnE.
Right, here goes.... What does everyone think about possibly building our own Dynamic Iris for fitting to you projectors?? I'm pretty good with PIC programming, and can simulate the motors etc. on the PC. I was thinking of using a small stepper motor, but you could even use a voice coil motor if it was powerfull enough.
The only other problem (other than the fact that I'm useless at metalwork), is how to guage the average brightness of the video image, and how to switch the iris to each video input. Of course, on modern projectors, this is all done digitally, but I don't think we'll have that option somehow!
Perhaps this subject is a new-thread starter? Or, has anyone seen any other threads about building a Dynamic Iris?
OzOnE.
As regards the pj receiving the "lamp lit" signal before the "lamp on" signal is sent, I suppose one could reroute the "lamp on" LED signal from the pj to the LED side of the "lamp on" optocoupler, after severing the original PCB trace coming from the ballast.
Of course, this all depends on the behavior of the pj and its design.
regards,
MAJ
Of course, this all depends on the behavior of the pj and its design.
regards,
MAJ
Hi, digital_dreamer,
Yes, you could feasibly connect the LED side of the optos together so that the "lamp on" signal would directly drive the "lamp lit" opto. You could also cut the trace to the original "lamp on" opto, to make sure the drive to the LED was the same.
I'd imagine most projectors would work fine like this, provided the timing of the signals wasn't more complicated than this of course.
Some projectors might have complicated ways of detecting the lamp current and certain error signals. This would be difficult to bypass.
Yes, you could feasibly connect the LED side of the optos together so that the "lamp on" signal would directly drive the "lamp lit" opto. You could also cut the trace to the original "lamp on" opto, to make sure the drive to the LED was the same.
I'd imagine most projectors would work fine like this, provided the timing of the signals wasn't more complicated than this of course.
Some projectors might have complicated ways of detecting the lamp current and certain error signals. This would be difficult to bypass.
Hi OzOnE_2k3
yes, 18wheeler have the 150W ballasts too, that is 160w and JYS lamp,but the lamp is double end, have too metal end, you need take off one metal end.can you do spot welding?
or I order other and single eng jys lamp and ballast for you. this have 4 pins like yours,I think that is easy to replace.
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/attachment.php?s=&postid=675200&stamp=1120475610
yes , 250W ballast an e-ballast too big, if you have space that is good way.
yes, 18wheeler have the 150W ballasts too, that is 160w and JYS lamp,but the lamp is double end, have too metal end, you need take off one metal end.can you do spot welding?
or I order other and single eng jys lamp and ballast for you. this have 4 pins like yours,I think that is easy to replace.
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/attachment.php?s=&postid=675200&stamp=1120475610
yes , 250W ballast an e-ballast too big, if you have space that is good way.
Attachments
hi all and thanks !
OzOnE...yeah, i saw those laminas early in my intertravels, but rather ruthlessly discounted them because i think that more can be achieved with those luxeon leds (app1000lm per 40mmx40mm), though i'm certainly not above being corrected !
i'd be quite happy to run little leds or resistors in place of (i.e. plugged into the fan connectors on main board) the non-psu fans, as long as those resistors (if used) don't cook or cook anything else
i suppose the lcd cooling fans will be obsolete if the lcds are being lit by uv/ir free light source ?
it is possible that the sensing circuits may be so clever as to spot a premature 'lamp on' signal, but i think in the case of my lp240 and lp250 at least, there is a three to five minute delay in collection by the board, of the lamp on signal (otherwise known as the initialisation period) for precisely the reason that (in the case of my infoci) the projector lamp has a chance to provide said signal to a waiting board, without the synchonisation issues that may have arisen from the board sensing pre startup signal - lamp igniting signal - lamp lit signal
phew, did that make sense ?
my lp running without a lamp, it really is working...wuhooo !
OzOnE...yeah, i saw those laminas early in my intertravels, but rather ruthlessly discounted them because i think that more can be achieved with those luxeon leds (app1000lm per 40mmx40mm), though i'm certainly not above being corrected !
i'd be quite happy to run little leds or resistors in place of (i.e. plugged into the fan connectors on main board) the non-psu fans, as long as those resistors (if used) don't cook or cook anything else
i suppose the lcd cooling fans will be obsolete if the lcds are being lit by uv/ir free light source ?
it is possible that the sensing circuits may be so clever as to spot a premature 'lamp on' signal, but i think in the case of my lp240 and lp250 at least, there is a three to five minute delay in collection by the board, of the lamp on signal (otherwise known as the initialisation period) for precisely the reason that (in the case of my infoci) the projector lamp has a chance to provide said signal to a waiting board, without the synchonisation issues that may have arisen from the board sensing pre startup signal - lamp igniting signal - lamp lit signal
phew, did that make sense ?
my lp running without a lamp, it really is working...wuhooo !
Attachments
hi ywh,
Is the photo in your last post the newer 160W ballast?
Do you still have the other ballasts available? (photo attached)
The above 160W ballast looks fine though if it's the newer type.
I wouldn't know how to remove the spot welding on the metal tabs, and my original bulb is only around 65mm. I could probably fit a new bulb with a maximum length of around 90mm though.
Double-ended should be fine, but I'm not sure about the metal tabs?
OzOnE.
Is the photo in your last post the newer 160W ballast?
Do you still have the other ballasts available? (photo attached)
The above 160W ballast looks fine though if it's the newer type.
I wouldn't know how to remove the spot welding on the metal tabs, and my original bulb is only around 65mm. I could probably fit a new bulb with a maximum length of around 90mm though.
Double-ended should be fine, but I'm not sure about the metal tabs?
OzOnE.
Attachments
Excellent news throwit!
Does your projector only enable the LCD's after the warm-up period?
Can you get any decent size of image when using the torch (experimental I take it!)?
You shouldn't need to have resistors in place of the fans in most cases (AFAIK). Most projectors I've seen have three-wire fans, with the separate wire for RPM detection. You'll need to fake this signal somehow to stop the PJ shutting down.
Although, if you have any two-wire fans that you're sure you won't need, just try unplugging them and see if the PJ still runs.
EDIT: P.S. Where did you get your torch, is it the white-LED one?
Does your projector only enable the LCD's after the warm-up period?
Can you get any decent size of image when using the torch (experimental I take it!)?
You shouldn't need to have resistors in place of the fans in most cases (AFAIK). Most projectors I've seen have three-wire fans, with the separate wire for RPM detection. You'll need to fake this signal somehow to stop the PJ shutting down.
Although, if you have any two-wire fans that you're sure you won't need, just try unplugging them and see if the PJ still runs.
EDIT: P.S. Where did you get your torch, is it the white-LED one?
Just found the specs for the Osram 273/45 (note: not the 273/46) in a very handy pdf file (page 16).....
http://www.osram.fr/downloads/catalogue/200410271358010.LightingProgram-PO.pdf
Osram VIP R 273/45....
Watts = 270
Volts = 38
Amps = 7.1
Lumens = 17000 !!!
Colour Temp = 5400
Arc gap = 1.9mm
Hours = 1000
Length = 73mm
These specs seem the same as the 273/46 which I want to replace (I'm replacing the ballast too). It also looks exactly the same.
I thought these specs might prove useful to someone?
This next pdf file shows that all VIP lamps are AC apparently (page 2), as well as some health advice about the Mercury content!.....
http://www.sylvania.com/content/display.scfx?id=003677441
And.... www.donsbulbs.com is a great source for possibly finding the type of lamp in your projector or it's cross-reference. It doesn't give voltages and whether AC or DC though.
The type of lamp in my brother's Sanyo PLC-XP10N is a SID lamp, would this commonly be AC or DC?
Another nice pdf here with very detailed info about discharge lamps, some Etendue stuff, and some good Philips ballast info.....
http://ej.iop.org/links/q24/WCJXVThTgEKjWRgN35cgFg/d5_17_R01.pdf
http://www.osram.fr/downloads/catalogue/200410271358010.LightingProgram-PO.pdf
Osram VIP R 273/45....
Watts = 270
Volts = 38
Amps = 7.1
Lumens = 17000 !!!
Colour Temp = 5400
Arc gap = 1.9mm
Hours = 1000
Length = 73mm
These specs seem the same as the 273/46 which I want to replace (I'm replacing the ballast too). It also looks exactly the same.
I thought these specs might prove useful to someone?
This next pdf file shows that all VIP lamps are AC apparently (page 2), as well as some health advice about the Mercury content!.....
http://www.sylvania.com/content/display.scfx?id=003677441
And.... www.donsbulbs.com is a great source for possibly finding the type of lamp in your projector or it's cross-reference. It doesn't give voltages and whether AC or DC though.
The type of lamp in my brother's Sanyo PLC-XP10N is a SID lamp, would this commonly be AC or DC?
Another nice pdf here with very detailed info about discharge lamps, some Etendue stuff, and some good Philips ballast info.....
http://ej.iop.org/links/q24/WCJXVThTgEKjWRgN35cgFg/d5_17_R01.pdf
Sorry, second pdf link broken. Here's a proper link....
http://www.oksolar.com/pdf/lighting/OsramPhotoOptic.pdf
(Edit button disappeared? Can you only edit once or something?)
http://www.oksolar.com/pdf/lighting/OsramPhotoOptic.pdf
(Edit button disappeared? Can you only edit once or something?)
hi OzOnE
sorry 'bout late reply, technical issues with laptop
edits...i think there's a half hour ceiling on edits, to stop us swearing at each other, letting the next post retaliate, then reverting our post to pleasantries - or something
lcd function is almost instantaneous, only thing stopping me knowing if it's actually instantaneous is a) the wait for uhp lamp to warm up, and b) i haven't got round to having the torch going before the projector starts up, because c) the torch is one of those yellow beamed, pistol gripped supposedly very bright rechargeable types, but it only works continuously, very brightly, for a few minutes, it's basically one of those incadescent car headlamp types, and most of the light was missing the lamp aperture, which still had all it's whacky baffles and filters in place
unfortunately, thus far, the biggest i can go is large stamp size with the image, some way to go yet
the fans are two wire, and within three minutes of either startup (with a fan unplugged) or unplugging, they trigger a 'fan failed' on screen message and shut down...what would it do if i shorted each unneeded fan pos to each neg in the connector ?
sorry 'bout late reply, technical issues with laptop
edits...i think there's a half hour ceiling on edits, to stop us swearing at each other, letting the next post retaliate, then reverting our post to pleasantries - or something
lcd function is almost instantaneous, only thing stopping me knowing if it's actually instantaneous is a) the wait for uhp lamp to warm up, and b) i haven't got round to having the torch going before the projector starts up, because c) the torch is one of those yellow beamed, pistol gripped supposedly very bright rechargeable types, but it only works continuously, very brightly, for a few minutes, it's basically one of those incadescent car headlamp types, and most of the light was missing the lamp aperture, which still had all it's whacky baffles and filters in place
unfortunately, thus far, the biggest i can go is large stamp size with the image, some way to go yet
the fans are two wire, and within three minutes of either startup (with a fan unplugged) or unplugging, they trigger a 'fan failed' on screen message and shut down...what would it do if i shorted each unneeded fan pos to each neg in the connector ?
Hi,
Thought so (about post edits).
No worries about replying quickly - I don't consider forums a realtime medium anyway, and I know most people are busy working all day too.
I've also tried sticking one of those cheap halogen desk lamps in the Proxima, but I can only see the image if I stare into the lens (obviously not recommended with brighter lamps!)
Please don't short-circuit the fan output connectors!!! Your PJ must have some sort of current sensing on the fans. Is there a possibility the torch gets hot enough to trip the temp limit, or did you try unplugging the fans with the torch removed too?
It does seem strange that the PJ took a few minutes before it shut down?
If it does indeed use current detection on the fans, you would need to use a resistor or something to roughly match the usual current draw from each fan to bypass them.
So, assuming the fan is 12V, and draws 0.12 Amps, you'd need to use a 100ohm resistor in it's place (or bigger value). You could then try a progressively bigger resistor value until you find the highest value which still works without the PJ shutting down.
The higher the resistor value, the less heat it would give off. I just tried a 220ohm resistor at 12V, and it got to around 75deg C!! You'd also need the bigger wattage resistors ("normal" sized resistors are usually 1/4 watt.)
I suppose if you stuck some 1 Watt resistors to small heatsink, you could use the lower resistor values of around 150-330ohms.
You could just try a 1K resistor or higher and see what happens, I tried a very small 1K resistor on 12V, and it only got to 42deg C. I'm not sure the projector would "see" this small current though.
I'm not sure of simpler method as yet - does anyone else have a suggestion for bypassing the fans?
You can use a calculator like the following one to work out your starting resistor value.....
http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/Bill_Bowden/ohmslaw.htm
(Just stick volts and amps of the fan in first two boxes, then it will give the ohms, then use the closest resistor value to this)
It would be nice if we had some service diagrams of these projectors though. I couldn't find mine anywhere.
OzOnE.
P.S. Goldeneye LED looks very nice btw!
Thought so (about post edits).
No worries about replying quickly - I don't consider forums a realtime medium anyway, and I know most people are busy working all day too.
I've also tried sticking one of those cheap halogen desk lamps in the Proxima, but I can only see the image if I stare into the lens (obviously not recommended with brighter lamps!)
Please don't short-circuit the fan output connectors!!! Your PJ must have some sort of current sensing on the fans. Is there a possibility the torch gets hot enough to trip the temp limit, or did you try unplugging the fans with the torch removed too?
It does seem strange that the PJ took a few minutes before it shut down?
If it does indeed use current detection on the fans, you would need to use a resistor or something to roughly match the usual current draw from each fan to bypass them.
So, assuming the fan is 12V, and draws 0.12 Amps, you'd need to use a 100ohm resistor in it's place (or bigger value). You could then try a progressively bigger resistor value until you find the highest value which still works without the PJ shutting down.
The higher the resistor value, the less heat it would give off. I just tried a 220ohm resistor at 12V, and it got to around 75deg C!!
You'd also need the bigger wattage resistors ("normal" sized resistors are usually 1/4 watt.)I suppose if you stuck some 1 Watt resistors to small heatsink, you could use the lower resistor values of around 150-330ohms.
You could just try a 1K resistor or higher and see what happens, I tried a very small 1K resistor on 12V, and it only got to 42deg C. I'm not sure the projector would "see" this small current though.
I'm not sure of simpler method as yet - does anyone else have a suggestion for bypassing the fans?
You can use a calculator like the following one to work out your starting resistor value.....
http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/Bill_Bowden/ohmslaw.htm
(Just stick volts and amps of the fan in first two boxes, then it will give the ohms, then use the closest resistor value to this)
It would be nice if we had some service diagrams of these projectors though. I couldn't find mine anywhere.
OzOnE.
P.S. Goldeneye LED looks very nice btw!
Oh, just thought I add (to my previous posts), that not all projectors might use fully ON opto signals to and from the ballast....
On the InFocus X1 for example, the "lamp enable" signal to the ballast starts at 2.7V, then rises to 4.2V when the lamp is warmed up and fully on (this is only the signal TO the ballast to start it, the "lamp lit" signal TO the projector looks like a standard fully-ON logic signal.)
If the projector receives linear voltages or other signals from the ballast, this would obviously be much harder to fool!
Like a normal transistor, optos can be used for either full ON / OFF logic switching, or they can send a linear voltage instead. Some projectors might use this linear signal for current or possibly temperature sensing of the original lamp.
So, the plot thickens. I've also noticed that many ballasts require a proper "sync" signal to syncronise the lamp pulses to the image frames (especially on DLP projectors). This complicates matters even more.
The original ballast / PSU from my Proxima DS1 uses a sync signal, so it would probably shut down without this signal (if I could be bothered to repair it first of course!).
But, if you're just looking to keep the projector from shutting down without the original ballast, then it should hopefully be a bit easier to do.
On the InFocus X1 for example, the "lamp enable" signal to the ballast starts at 2.7V, then rises to 4.2V when the lamp is warmed up and fully on (this is only the signal TO the ballast to start it, the "lamp lit" signal TO the projector looks like a standard fully-ON logic signal.)
If the projector receives linear voltages or other signals from the ballast, this would obviously be much harder to fool!
Like a normal transistor, optos can be used for either full ON / OFF logic switching, or they can send a linear voltage instead. Some projectors might use this linear signal for current or possibly temperature sensing of the original lamp.
So, the plot thickens. I've also noticed that many ballasts require a proper "sync" signal to syncronise the lamp pulses to the image frames (especially on DLP projectors). This complicates matters even more.
The original ballast / PSU from my Proxima DS1 uses a sync signal, so it would probably shut down without this signal (if I could be bothered to repair it first of course!).
But, if you're just looking to keep the projector from shutting down without the original ballast, then it should hopefully be a bit easier to do.
"But, if you're just looking to keep the projector from shutting down without the original ballast, then it should hopefully be a bit easier to do"...does that apply to me ? 
i'm getting worried i think i'm there when i might not be !
as far as my projectors go, they seem to have never shut down due to heat, and the torch appears to give off very little radiant heat, though the glass lens gets warm (it's one of those ones where the lens is about 150mm diameter), i shone it in quite easily from outside the projector (lined up with the lamp aperture), 'cos i was running the projector 'naked' without its case
don't worry. i haven't shorted the fan connections !
the projector does definately have some kind of fan operation sensor, probably as you say it detects the drawing of current, but it does appear that whether it's the lamp on signal, or fan sensor, that there is a time buffer, probably to prevent minor glitches from triggering actions that are unnecessary, if i were designing a circuit, and immediate action wasn't vital, i'd probably do the same thing as they have
thanks for the info...what about sticking a cheap led in each fan connector ?...would i be able to find some which wouldn't need resistors (as long as i go by the spec of the original fan)(i thought light might be preferable to heat) ?...i had pondered using the fan supplies to run the main lamp leds, but i think this would be not only complicated, but probably not sufficient
i'm still not sure why the lcds have active cooling by fan, i mean, lcds don't in of themselves have heat issues do they ?...must be radiant heat (uv/ir) from the uhp lamp ?...so i hope that by going to uv/ir free led lighting, i can disable the lcd cooling fans too
yeah, they're not exactly generous with the service manuals are they ?
i'm getting worried i think i'm there when i might not be !
as far as my projectors go, they seem to have never shut down due to heat, and the torch appears to give off very little radiant heat, though the glass lens gets warm (it's one of those ones where the lens is about 150mm diameter), i shone it in quite easily from outside the projector (lined up with the lamp aperture), 'cos i was running the projector 'naked' without its case
don't worry. i haven't shorted the fan connections !
the projector does definately have some kind of fan operation sensor, probably as you say it detects the drawing of current, but it does appear that whether it's the lamp on signal, or fan sensor, that there is a time buffer, probably to prevent minor glitches from triggering actions that are unnecessary, if i were designing a circuit, and immediate action wasn't vital, i'd probably do the same thing as they have
thanks for the info...what about sticking a cheap led in each fan connector ?...would i be able to find some which wouldn't need resistors (as long as i go by the spec of the original fan)(i thought light might be preferable to heat) ?...i had pondered using the fan supplies to run the main lamp leds, but i think this would be not only complicated, but probably not sufficient
i'm still not sure why the lcds have active cooling by fan, i mean, lcds don't in of themselves have heat issues do they ?...must be radiant heat (uv/ir) from the uhp lamp ?...so i hope that by going to uv/ir free led lighting, i can disable the lcd cooling fans too
yeah, they're not exactly generous with the service manuals are they ?
I'm sure your PJ is fine with the simple opto bypass! As I'm confident most PJ's will have a similar logic system.
You could use LED's in place of the fans I suppose, but they normally draw very little current. Then again, I wouldn't use the fan connectors to power a Luxeon or something, they weren't designed to switch that kind of power
You never know, if you just used an LED with the standard resistor value for 12V, the PJ might stay on anyway. It's possible it only needs to detect a small current, and that the "fan failure" error would only show when it detects an open-circuit on the fan.
Remember that most fans are 12V, and some PJ's even use 24V fans! You could try the LED and resistor trick though (try it on only one fan connector at a time). Here's another calc for LED's.....
http://led.linear1.org/1led.wiz
You need to know the LED's forward voltage and current though.
The fan(s) on the LCD panels are most definitely for when running the original lamp. The large heat buildup would easily damage the panels over time. Too much heat in the short term can also cause the LCD's to fade or go "patchy" until the temps drop again. The organic liquid crystal itself is attacked by the IR/UV light from the lamp too, so PJ's nearly always have IR/UV filters.
The LCD's probably wouldn't need the fan(s) if you were using a non IR/UV light source and if it wasn't overly hot.
I've actually found that the very small fan next to the colour wheel on the Proxima is very noisy (the 90mm fan on the lamp housing is completely knackered too). I was worried it was the colour wheel motor making all that noise! With new fans, the Proxima will be very quiet.
You could use LED's in place of the fans I suppose, but they normally draw very little current. Then again, I wouldn't use the fan connectors to power a Luxeon or something, they weren't designed to switch that kind of power
You never know, if you just used an LED with the standard resistor value for 12V, the PJ might stay on anyway. It's possible it only needs to detect a small current, and that the "fan failure" error would only show when it detects an open-circuit on the fan.
Remember that most fans are 12V, and some PJ's even use 24V fans! You could try the LED and resistor trick though (try it on only one fan connector at a time). Here's another calc for LED's.....
http://led.linear1.org/1led.wiz
You need to know the LED's forward voltage and current though.
The fan(s) on the LCD panels are most definitely for when running the original lamp. The large heat buildup would easily damage the panels over time. Too much heat in the short term can also cause the LCD's to fade or go "patchy" until the temps drop again. The organic liquid crystal itself is attacked by the IR/UV light from the lamp too, so PJ's nearly always have IR/UV filters.
The LCD's probably wouldn't need the fan(s) if you were using a non IR/UV light source and if it wasn't overly hot.
I've actually found that the very small fan next to the colour wheel on the Proxima is very noisy (the 90mm fan on the lamp housing is completely knackered too). I was worried it was the colour wheel motor making all that noise! With new fans, the Proxima will be very quiet.
@mods: sorry if this is off-topic. Please move these posts if they're in the wrong place. Also, sorry for hijacking the thread, this is suppose to be about the amazing lamps that ywh and 18wheeler are supplying!
throwit, I've been thinking about your LED design and looking at the superbright LED's on eBay etc. The 10mm 125000mcd white LED's are only around 10 lumens of brightness each, and I've realized that the purpose of the reflector on halide lamps is to focus the light to a narrow point?....
If you filled the (roughly) 45mm x 45mm area of the original reflector with LED's, this wouldn't be a focused beam?
I know that the latest pocket projectors are using separate red, green, and blue LED's too. I know this works for replacing the colour wheel in DLP designs, but they use them for LCD designs too (like on the Sony)? Also, using separate LED's normally allows for higher overall light output because each LED (RGB) can run at a higher power than one white LED.
I've only just realized the advantage of using an LCD projector though - you could just use a red, green and blue LED cluster directly behind the LCD panels (kind of like the Goldeneye!). This should give the highest light output, and also do away with the need for the colour filters (I'm sure you or someone else already mentioned this)?
The only trouble with that would be making the LED light diffuse enough so that the LED die patterns weren't visible.
I'm quite confident I could build a switcher for an RGB LED array for DLP projectors using a PIC chip and some MOSFETs. This would also bypass the need for the colour wheel and increase the available light output by quite a bit. Apparently, the colour space (or "gamut" as they call it) is excellent when using LED's. I just don't think you'll get enough light out of them for a decent sized image?
I had an InFocus LP620 DLP projector for a while which allowed you to move the colour wheel out of the light path for black and white images. The light output increase was quite dramatic, so I'm sure using LED's for DLP would have it's advantages too. I only wish I'd have realized that the LP620 was a 10Kg huge mega-elephant beast of a machine before I'd bought it! (be gone with it I say) Honestly, this thing was obscene!
So, it would be great if we could find a way of using LED's that were bright enough. I'm only asking for around 800 screen lumens - I want a Goldeneye LED (or three)!
throwit, where are you at the moment with the LED lamp? Are you still waiting for the eBay LED's to arrive?
throwit, I've been thinking about your LED design and looking at the superbright LED's on eBay etc. The 10mm 125000mcd white LED's are only around 10 lumens of brightness each, and I've realized that the purpose of the reflector on halide lamps is to focus the light to a narrow point?....
If you filled the (roughly) 45mm x 45mm area of the original reflector with LED's, this wouldn't be a focused beam?
I know that the latest pocket projectors are using separate red, green, and blue LED's too. I know this works for replacing the colour wheel in DLP designs, but they use them for LCD designs too (like on the Sony)? Also, using separate LED's normally allows for higher overall light output because each LED (RGB) can run at a higher power than one white LED.
I've only just realized the advantage of using an LCD projector though - you could just use a red, green and blue LED cluster directly behind the LCD panels (kind of like the Goldeneye!). This should give the highest light output, and also do away with the need for the colour filters (I'm sure you or someone else already mentioned this)?
The only trouble with that would be making the LED light diffuse enough so that the LED die patterns weren't visible.
I'm quite confident I could build a switcher for an RGB LED array for DLP projectors using a PIC chip and some MOSFETs. This would also bypass the need for the colour wheel and increase the available light output by quite a bit. Apparently, the colour space (or "gamut" as they call it) is excellent when using LED's. I just don't think you'll get enough light out of them for a decent sized image?
I had an InFocus LP620 DLP projector for a while which allowed you to move the colour wheel out of the light path for black and white images. The light output increase was quite dramatic, so I'm sure using LED's for DLP would have it's advantages too. I only wish I'd have realized that the LP620 was a 10Kg huge mega-elephant beast of a machine before I'd bought it! (be gone with it I say)
Honestly, this thing was obscene!So, it would be great if we could find a way of using LED's that were bright enough. I'm only asking for around 800 screen lumens - I want a Goldeneye LED (or three)!
throwit, where are you at the moment with the LED lamp? Are you still waiting for the eBay LED's to arrive?
yeah, sorry ywh about drifting off again !
hi OzOne...i've put my reply in led: yes you can ! we should definately confine any continuation of led chat to there
hi OzOne...i've put my reply in led: yes you can ! we should definately confine any continuation of led chat to there
Hi ! OzOnE_2k3
the 160W ballast is PMA161X USHIO INC
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/attachment.php?s=&postid=674603&stamp=1120377874
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/attachment.php?s=&postid=674697&stamp=1120397595
this PDF is nice, can you find other file of
PHILIPS UHP,
Matsushita HS /UHM,
PHOENIX SHP ,
IWASAKI HSCR,
NEC NUPNUA,
GE SHL,
that is important for me, like that I know VIP is Metal Halide lamp,need jys/AC.
P-VIP is need JYD.
Don't bother the metal tabs, I can send single eng jys lamp to you.
in this pic:http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/attachment.php?s=&postid=951796&stamp=1151679818
this is a vacuum seal on the bulb. the vacuum seal is the bump thing on the ball part.
If there is seal, JYs lamps are needed.
If there is no seal, JYd lamps are needed.
price:
lamp(JYS) + ballast $125.00
shipping $15.00 (by air mail)
the 160W ballast is PMA161X USHIO INC
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/attachment.php?s=&postid=674603&stamp=1120377874
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/attachment.php?s=&postid=674697&stamp=1120397595
this PDF is nice, can you find other file of
PHILIPS UHP,
Matsushita HS /UHM,
PHOENIX SHP ,
IWASAKI HSCR,
NEC NUPNUA,
GE SHL,
that is important for me, like that I know VIP is Metal Halide lamp,need jys/AC.
P-VIP is need JYD.
Don't bother the metal tabs, I can send single eng jys lamp to you.
in this pic:http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/attachment.php?s=&postid=951796&stamp=1151679818
this is a vacuum seal on the bulb. the vacuum seal is the bump thing on the ball part.
If there is seal, JYs lamps are needed.
If there is no seal, JYd lamps are needed.
price:
lamp(JYS) + ballast $125.00
shipping $15.00 (by air mail)
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