Closing in!
I see some light at the end of the tunnel...
Not much is left to be done, like, connecting the thing, making holes in the chassis, and probably one more thing I forgot.
I had to get a different box because I tried to be smart. Having a little collection of medium to fine cartridges (ortofon bronze thing, a DL103r, a Benz Micro medium range thingie, I thought I'd be better off if I was prepared for resistor-rolling, so I made them onto (kinda) breakout-boards.
Of course I got my inspiration from 6L6's build
Since the chassis is way too big, I am thinking about placing the brick into it (behind a steel box?) and pull the cable underneath the chassis to avoid issues... bad idea?
Sad thing is: still no listening to this baby.
I see some light at the end of the tunnel...
Not much is left to be done, like, connecting the thing, making holes in the chassis, and probably one more thing I forgot.
I had to get a different box because I tried to be smart. Having a little collection of medium to fine cartridges (ortofon bronze thing, a DL103r, a Benz Micro medium range thingie, I thought I'd be better off if I was prepared for resistor-rolling, so I made them onto (kinda) breakout-boards.
Of course I got my inspiration from 6L6's build
Since the chassis is way too big, I am thinking about placing the brick into it (behind a steel box?) and pull the cable underneath the chassis to avoid issues... bad idea?
Sad thing is: still no listening to this baby.
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I was wondering if anyone has tried modifying the current Bugle2 with the variable boost and cut values that were in the former bugle pro that I see on the Hagerman site. I'm thinking of giving it a try. The appropriate resistor and capacitor values to get the RIAA value are the same in the Bugle 2 and the pro, so I'm thinking I can put in selectable values for those to make some 78 rpm friendly curves available to myself.
Separate from that I may try to put an input selection in front of it to make switching between stereo and mono easier, something to select Stereo, L+R and maybe L-R if I want to try make vertical cut things work.
Separate from that I may try to put an input selection in front of it to make switching between stereo and mono easier, something to select Stereo, L+R and maybe L-R if I want to try make vertical cut things work.
I have the bugle 2 since it came out on Kickstarter and I am very happy with the sound of my vinyl. When I built it I have installed mundorf caps for the signal path and to99 cans using sockets in case I fancy a change, also did this for the loading and gain resistors. I use it for mc at 60db and absolutely recommend being able to change the loading resistors because this is critical to fine tune performance.
Recently, I made a wooden box to house it and lined the inside of the box with copper tape making a sort of faraday cage, star ground together with the Phono ground. The results were brilliant, RF is gone ( I live near a mast) and hiss also came down marginally.
The bugle 2 is a fantastic device.
Recently, I made a wooden box to house it and lined the inside of the box with copper tape making a sort of faraday cage, star ground together with the Phono ground. The results were brilliant, RF is gone ( I live near a mast) and hiss also came down marginally.
The bugle 2 is a fantastic device.
A few months ago, I finally got motivated to finish my original Bugle project, with a PCB I'd purchased back around 2005(!).
I had run the audio board bare for a while on 9V batteries, but got tired of that and ordered the PSU PCB and parts kit.
I went back to my tube preamp of the time and the Bugle project languished for a decade. I didn't start in on the Bugle PSU.
Then the tube preamp broke (power supply diodes shorted, probably due to my own design ineptitude, but it did work for 20 years before dying). In a panic, I bought a Schiit Mani. I don't know why.
Finally, I got motivated to put together the PSU and put the Bugle and its PSU into a pair of black Hammond chassis. I rigged up a little red LED indicator for the PSU and fitted the chassis with pigtail connectors for the +/-15V. Much to my surprise, it all worked flawlessly when I plugged everything in. No drama!
I've been using the preamp ever since. It's really pretty darn good. I think it's a little clearer sounding than the Schiit Mani, but I can't guarantee that it's a huge difference. However, I do notice that the Mani has a more pronounced bass response than the Bugle. The Mani has an ever so slight bass boost, while the Bugle has a slight 'rumble filter' that's roughly -1.5dB at 20Hz.
I configured the Bugle for 40dB of gain, and I'm thinking of going back in and goosing that up to about 45dB. That would suit my system better, and make records sound subjectively about as loud as my digital source.
I wonder if the old Bugle with OPA2134 is that much different if used for MM than the Bugle2 and Bugle3 with the newer op-amps. This one is as quiet as can be with all the MM and MI carts I've tried with it (AT-VM95E, Shure M35X, Pickering XV-15).
Anyhow, just thought I'd share my Bugle love. It was well worth putting it together. I should have finished it sooner!
--
I had run the audio board bare for a while on 9V batteries, but got tired of that and ordered the PSU PCB and parts kit.
I went back to my tube preamp of the time and the Bugle project languished for a decade. I didn't start in on the Bugle PSU.
Then the tube preamp broke (power supply diodes shorted, probably due to my own design ineptitude, but it did work for 20 years before dying). In a panic, I bought a Schiit Mani. I don't know why.
Finally, I got motivated to put together the PSU and put the Bugle and its PSU into a pair of black Hammond chassis. I rigged up a little red LED indicator for the PSU and fitted the chassis with pigtail connectors for the +/-15V. Much to my surprise, it all worked flawlessly when I plugged everything in. No drama!
I've been using the preamp ever since. It's really pretty darn good. I think it's a little clearer sounding than the Schiit Mani, but I can't guarantee that it's a huge difference. However, I do notice that the Mani has a more pronounced bass response than the Bugle. The Mani has an ever so slight bass boost, while the Bugle has a slight 'rumble filter' that's roughly -1.5dB at 20Hz.
I configured the Bugle for 40dB of gain, and I'm thinking of going back in and goosing that up to about 45dB. That would suit my system better, and make records sound subjectively about as loud as my digital source.
I wonder if the old Bugle with OPA2134 is that much different if used for MM than the Bugle2 and Bugle3 with the newer op-amps. This one is as quiet as can be with all the MM and MI carts I've tried with it (AT-VM95E, Shure M35X, Pickering XV-15).
Anyhow, just thought I'd share my Bugle love. It was well worth putting it together. I should have finished it sooner!
--
I have broadened my plans and am now thinking of a pre amp with the bugle as a phono stage in the same chassis, relay i/p switching, VU meters and motorised volume.
I have also been thinking of having a switch on the front to switch the gain of the bugle between 40 and 60 db and 47k ohm and a pair of RCA sockets on the back in which I can fit the R23 loading plugs of the required resistance for whatever MC cartridge I am using. These will be relays operated by the switch.
It also means I will need 24v and 12v supplies.
The pre amp is going to be an ACP+, I have the pcb and matched FETs for that.
I'm gonna need a bigger case
I have also been thinking of having a switch on the front to switch the gain of the bugle between 40 and 60 db and 47k ohm and a pair of RCA sockets on the back in which I can fit the R23 loading plugs of the required resistance for whatever MC cartridge I am using. These will be relays operated by the switch.
It also means I will need 24v and 12v supplies.
The pre amp is going to be an ACP+, I have the pcb and matched FETs for that.
I'm gonna need a bigger case
Why not try a HiFi2000/Modushop 'Galaxy' case? You can get them in 124 / 230 / 330 width, with various depths. Yes, it will cost more (than a Jaycar case) but they can CNC all the holes - including the oblong IEC hole - and inscribe words (eg. 'Gain Plugs').
(I can create the '.dxf' CNC files for you, if you don't know how to do this.)
Andy
I built my Bugle 2 some 5 years ago. I have a question. On my Thorens TD125 MKII I use mostly a Denon DL-110 cartridge and as you know the output is lower than the Shure V15 Type IV (1.6mv verses 4.0 mv). Consequently the output at the speakers are lower. I do a lot of converting of my original LP albums to digital with the Denon DL-110. I would like to raise the dB output from 40 to 43-44 dB. Can anyone tell me what resistors I need to change and to what value? I tried the 50dB setting and it is way to high. Thanks.
1.6 to 4.0 is 8dB. So 10dB more gain should not be "way to high".
But taking your opinion: you want 3.5dB more gain. Or 1.5X. I will take this small added gain in the first stage (rather than two stages as Bugle does for large jumps).
Make R3 866.7 Ohms. R8 stays 1.3k.
Thanks PRR. I believe where my confusion stems from the manual going from 40dB to 50db one also installs a resistor into R23 which also changes the cartridge loading from 47K to who knows where. I experimented with various resistors from 681 ohms to 1K ohms. I settled on 750 ohms for now. I certainly appreciated your help.
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