I use elna silmic 10uF, why cerafine? eventhough i dont think there will be a significant difference, only use what i have on my drawer, too lazy for caps rolling
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On C2 the BOM recommends Elna Silmic II
On C3 the BOM recommends Panasonic FC and that is what I used
I see that on C3 that you have fitted a larger 3300uf X 50V Elna Silmic II
Did not think it would fit due to size
Now I'm considering because I can see from your photo that it fits, to swap the Panasonic FC to the larger size Elna Silmic II
FR
C3 recomended size is 16mm, while my C3 is nichicon super 4700uF 16V with 18mm diameter still can be used there. But silmic 3300uF 50V will not fit in since it's 30mm, I have silmic ars 1000uF 50V with 16mm diameter but not sure for it's smaller capacitance.
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/grou...120mm-ums-spacing-tea-bag-18.html#post4696417
Hey, no solder shaming on this thread. People work with the skills and parts they have.
I have used a 1000uf Silimic part on C3, it takes less time to bias up, which is probably not a good thing, but it fit okay.
I think C2 is more important cap than any others, being in direct signal path.
I have used a 1000uf Silimic part on C3, it takes less time to bias up, which is probably not a good thing, but it fit okay.
I think C2 is more important cap than any others, being in direct signal path.
The M2 is certainly worthy of premium parts. But honestly it sounds SO GOOD with Tea's careful BOM that I've zero motivation thus far to change anything. What a stellar amp!
Contemplating some of the pics. I kept my boards connected for stuffing and broke them apart afterwards. In retrospect I would have preferred breaking them before stuffing. Many slices with a blade to avoid undue stress during the "break"...
BK
Contemplating some of the pics. I kept my boards connected for stuffing and broke them apart afterwards. In retrospect I would have preferred breaking them before stuffing. Many slices with a blade to avoid undue stress during the "break"...
BK
Just finished my M2 and fired it up.
Even with 52.3k for R7, still not able to reach zero DC offset (at -90mV). Plays music fine though. Very easy build and board solders extremely well due to thick copper traces.
Will need more time for listening impressions. So far sounds very good.
If you noticed I managed to install spade connectors for all power in and speaker outs by clipping one pin off of a two pin spade. I really dislike solder connections to amp boards and wonder why all Pass style amps use solder connections while all amps in SS forum use spade connections? Perhaps it's because folks in SS forum make many amps and use a few PSU's shared between amps? In any event, I find it much more convenient to have spade terminals.
Even with 52.3k for R7, still not able to reach zero DC offset (at -90mV). Plays music fine though. Very easy build and board solders extremely well due to thick copper traces.
Will need more time for listening impressions. So far sounds very good.
If you noticed I managed to install spade connectors for all power in and speaker outs by clipping one pin off of a two pin spade. I really dislike solder connections to amp boards and wonder why all Pass style amps use solder connections while all amps in SS forum use spade connections? Perhaps it's because folks in SS forum make many amps and use a few PSU's shared between amps? In any event, I find it much more convenient to have spade terminals.
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Maybe try 56k? I believe ZM may have had to go to 68k.
When I tried 68k it slipped as much in the opposite direction
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