I couldn't agree more. Over the years of browsing the forums I have saved literally hundreds of pictures and have created a folder on my computer called "Audio Inspiration" about 99% of the photos are from DIYers.
Josh
Edit: If you change your settings to view 50 posts/page its much easier to browse the forum, I find.
here's a uFonken^2 for the small office annex in the man-cave. tung-oiled oak ply. currently wired in parallel for a measured impedance of 3.5ohms. i only have 24 hrs on these thus far with an ancient 20 yr old Denon receiver. so far, i'm very, very pleased.
a big thanks to Dave for sharing his designs and to everyone here on the FR Forum for sharing their knowledge - i really appreciate it.
Those are very nice, and I see you have caught a picture of the elusive Dust Cap Monster!
here's a uFonken^2 for the small office annex in the man-cave. tung-oiled oak ply. currently wired in parallel for a measured impedance of 3.5ohms. i only have 24 hrs on these thus far with an ancient 20 yr old Denon receiver. so far, i'm very, very pleased.
a big thanks to Dave for sharing his designs and to everyone here on the FR Forum for sharing their knowledge - i really appreciate it
Hello Fishski13!
Please forgive the ignorance of a technically inept amongst us, but why would you have chosen to wire them in parallel for a measured impedance of 3.5 ohms over wiring in series for a higher impedance? Just curious what the thought process behind that decision was...
Tom Scata (thetubeguy1954)
=========================================================
"The man that hath no music in himself nor is not moved with concord of sweet sounds is fit for treasons, stratagems and spoils."
- William Shakespeare
good question - try them both ways -although you'll get more power into the lower impedance load, the Denon might he happier at 16ohms than 4- and the FF85 will not conceal the difference
To what I listen.
It is possible to make guesses, which one rather.
Thank you, MJK, and sure for you, Dave!
I hope so, the photographs turned out quite stagy!
Wacky Gyuri
http://yje88g.bay.livefilestore.com/y1ptR3u96tDIQ1br1UX9_0TRwkD55Fx0HLxTQtGx6jDH32OUcYgtQJnROzOjvzPcZGfUvBjuaWpDG8eBFfTrQd8TgWcJ802Nvpq/DSC_03470001.JPG
http://yje88g.bay.livefilestore.com/y1p-Zvq4vTKDpXtU6DCuQLVdgk3Q8nRk12_Nh3du4hy6R5EfYrF2-P4adBeSQY0zXD3hFPdceTxXfsGYa32snqRIosLxSsv6Oaz/DSC_03480002.JPG
http://yje88g.bay.livefilestore.com/y1pXQyvLPN_s3bZGzLd9hR_FccbIivLkPAsNMhPGpLQ95y9eZ9Gfos9qsbKSZBg5N2TcmWPpJGUmdsw9fdc4MH1vNRiMifAziIH/DSC_03490003.JPG
http://yje88g.bay.livefilestore.com/y1pjYs06DTgDK2E1CYIibcuUzE1h6ZVGTmwEyXCaBr8wkC-0AKAQLMxy3B0btJgrQiXqZTJSkQo7Oi_Br27yj4o3OtVGEqh2ZOU/DSC_03500004.JPG
It is possible to make guesses, which one rather.
Thank you, MJK, and sure for you, Dave!
I hope so, the photographs turned out quite stagy!
Wacky Gyuri
http://yje88g.bay.livefilestore.com/y1ptR3u96tDIQ1br1UX9_0TRwkD55Fx0HLxTQtGx6jDH32OUcYgtQJnROzOjvzPcZGfUvBjuaWpDG8eBFfTrQd8TgWcJ802Nvpq/DSC_03470001.JPG
http://yje88g.bay.livefilestore.com/y1p-Zvq4vTKDpXtU6DCuQLVdgk3Q8nRk12_Nh3du4hy6R5EfYrF2-P4adBeSQY0zXD3hFPdceTxXfsGYa32snqRIosLxSsv6Oaz/DSC_03480002.JPG
http://yje88g.bay.livefilestore.com/y1pXQyvLPN_s3bZGzLd9hR_FccbIivLkPAsNMhPGpLQ95y9eZ9Gfos9qsbKSZBg5N2TcmWPpJGUmdsw9fdc4MH1vNRiMifAziIH/DSC_03490003.JPG
http://yje88g.bay.livefilestore.com/y1pjYs06DTgDK2E1CYIibcuUzE1h6ZVGTmwEyXCaBr8wkC-0AKAQLMxy3B0btJgrQiXqZTJSkQo7Oi_Br27yj4o3OtVGEqh2ZOU/DSC_03500004.JPG
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No. Just paraphrasing the comment you made about how much you "disliked" the finish -- and the work to do it -- on ours.
I know that at some point you'll likey swoop them away noe that we have confirmed they work.
dave
just madness, no particular thought process . that's part of the reason i ran the wires directly out - i want to be able to try both parallel and series. i have a Tripath based 30W Amp4 upstairs and an %80 completed F5. i'll end up with 16ohm connection with these amps and the SE tube amp i have on deck.
. that's part of the reason i ran the wires directly out - i want to be able to try both parallel and series. i have a Tripath based 30W Amp4 upstairs and an %80 completed F5. i'll end up with 16ohm connection with these amps and the SE tube amp i have on deck.
just madness, no particular thought process
Hello Fishski13!
Thanks for the clarification...
Tom Scata (thetubeguy1954)
================================================== =======
"The man that hath no music in himself nor is not moved with concord of sweet sounds is fit for treasons, stratagems and spoils."
- William Shakespeare
Yes, very nice work indeed. I've seen your video's on YouTube and you mention that the horns were sourced from Rainer Flock. When I use the link on your page (http://www.flo-horns.de) is shows the URL is no longer working or valid. Can you give me an alternative way to contact Rainer? I thank you in advance for your time
Upgrading my BLH using the BMS 4524 driver
Hi Dave,
I think project like Iris 1v1 is better for Philips AD7061/M4... but small room + high cabinets + Wife Factor = isn’t a good idea
. My BVR with one mouth horn is compromise. Different vintage Philips AD7061/M4 have different T/S parameters , Fs from 68Hz to 87Hz, Qts from 0,65 to 0,9. My drivers used to have Fs=74Hz/Qts=0,68 . After the modification (new spider) Fs came down to 68Hz , with magnet ring Qts came down to 0,48. With these parameters I calculated horn lenght=90cm, horn throat=60cm² , horn mouth=700cm², CC=9L.
I`m not sure if philips drivers will sound good without modification in my project.
Philips with magnet ring and my prevous 2 way BVR project (first steps
)in process of developmentAttachments
probably faster to build and veneer another pair than fix that hammer-coat paint finish
I bet they'd burn some pretty colors