Looks an awful lot like a commercial Tang Band speaker design I've seen (Tang Band D4-1 DIY Back Horn Speaker Kit). Is this really DIY?
Here's some small folded TL's I quickly put together to have something for Netflix and YouTube on the bedroom PC. Driver is the 4.5" Pioneer A11. The box has a 2 liters coupling chamber and a ~30" line about 4 liters in volume. It's damped on the initial 2/3 with polyfill quilt batting. Finish is gloss black Tremclad and a cork sheet in front.
Response, with mic ~8" away from the cone and pipe output, speaker on a stand and "baffled" with a 20"x30" foam-core sheet to minimize front-back interference a bit.
They do well enough for their intended purpose, the aim was compact. The variable loudness control on the Denon receiver that drives them makes for a decent ersatz-BSC. They are playing roughly in quarter-space though, especially if seated in front and nearfield, so they don't need much of it.
IG
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Response, with mic ~8" away from the cone and pipe output, speaker on a stand and "baffled" with a 20"x30" foam-core sheet to minimize front-back interference a bit.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
They do well enough for their intended purpose, the aim was compact. The variable loudness control on the Denon receiver that drives them makes for a decent ersatz-BSC. They are playing roughly in quarter-space though, especially if seated in front and nearfield, so they don't need much of it.
IG
IG,
Again you've done a great job. A "little" different from your Karlson's, but very nice all the same!
Best Regards,
TerryO
Thanks! Seems like I go for real big or real small, to my scale at least. Though I am cooking up something on the large side of things, to be built in coming months hopefully.
IG
posted elsewhere:
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
As Jeff noted, really more of an aperiodic than a critically damped TL - but should still work just fine
That was a test setup and the final iteration has the first two thirds of the line damped with poly-fill batting, that is to say, the last vetical section was left empty. The coupling chamber is only lined with some thick felt, something called "Maxolite".
I've yet to check the impedance profile for this little speaker, but IMO it will be close to a single peak, much like a closed/aperiodic box. Sticking my ear close to the pipe exit, there is more to be heard than a true aperiodic box though. I stuck enough polyfill to kill some upper-band ripples along with two deep notches.
IG
The finish is actually very basic: two coats of Tremclad gloss black anti-rust paint. A lot of small "defects" actually show up; one has to be impeccable when doing a gloss finish. I only sanded the wood, filled the small holes, sanded again and went on with the paint, brushed on. Turned out nice enough for the simplicity of it. In any case, I wasn't gonna go all-out on this speaker.
IG
Aiko FE108E Sigma
Here's the new Aikos, I finally finished them. Quite a lot of work went into these, probably between 30 and 40 hours, mostly on finish.
Zebrawood veneer on front, back and top.
Copper veneer (Azul Copper Veneer 24" x 18" - On Sale: $39.50) Supra-Baffle
Medium/High gloss black finish on the sides.
FE108E sigmas courtesy of Dave (Planet10) with phase plugs and cone coating. Thanks Dave!
I only have about an hour of listening in as I post this but they sound amazing. It's incredible... They are fairly dynamic too which is nice. Even with the tiny x-max and relatively small cone they can go pretty dang loud without worrying about excursion.
I've got them crossed to the negatively tapered horn I build last weekend for now, they are actually running full range with the sub crossed in, not to worry though I'm watching them carefully. XO is fairly low, around 70 Hz or so, it is nice being able to cross that low, I can't tell where the sub is at all.
Once I get all my chickens in a rom (or something like that) I will move them to their final resting place on the other side of the room and hook them up to the sofa subwoofer to get some REAL bass
Here's the new Aikos, I finally finished them. Quite a lot of work went into these, probably between 30 and 40 hours, mostly on finish.
Zebrawood veneer on front, back and top.
Copper veneer (Azul Copper Veneer 24" x 18" - On Sale: $39.50) Supra-Baffle
Medium/High gloss black finish on the sides.
FE108E sigmas courtesy of Dave (Planet10) with phase plugs and cone coating. Thanks Dave!
I only have about an hour of listening in as I post this but they sound amazing. It's incredible... They are fairly dynamic too which is nice. Even with the tiny x-max and relatively small cone they can go pretty dang loud without worrying about excursion.
I've got them crossed to the negatively tapered horn I build last weekend for now, they are actually running full range with the sub crossed in, not to worry though I'm watching them carefully. XO is fairly low, around 70 Hz or so, it is nice being able to cross that low, I can't tell where the sub is at all.
Once I get all my chickens in a rom (or something like that) I will move them to their final resting place on the other side of the room and hook them up to the sofa subwoofer to get some REAL bass
Attachments
They look quite well...
...but these connectors on the front
thanks!
And that's just a personal preference thing... The connectors ate gold plated and look nice, and the wire I made from cat5e plenum with techflex and stained wood terminators. It all looks great so i thought I might as well show it off
Patina Copper Veneer Stock List
I used the smallest size, cut in half. I designed the baffle around the veneer so it fit perfectly. There was none left over and it wraps around behind the baffle by about a quarter of an inch for a pretty tight pressure fit.
The baffle is sort of removable in a worst case scenario. Its glued on but I can probably knock it off with a mallet. I would have screwed it but there was no way to do so without it being seen
The copper is my favorite part. It was worth every penny. It's even better looking in person than in the picture.
I made those outriggers from some flat steel bar and some #8 all thread. I sharpened the all thread and bolted it onto the steel. It actually looks pretty good, and it cost less than $10, which is a huge savings over commercial outriggers. They are incredibly stable, much more so than my other speakers.
Cheers
