I'll sometimes state that it's probably easier to build some of these than to master the arcane design software, but then you've perhaps seen some of Dave's cabinet handiwork, and realize the reverse is not necessarily the case
Whenever you "say" that you have to say neapolitan stranded bamboo ply ... that added bit emphasizes that this is a superior grade of bamboo ply.
And those castle mTs are gorgeous.
dave
Thanks guys! These are some of the prettiest things I think Ive ever made. The material may be a bit busy to some, but I love it. I'm trying to work out base pieces of Black Galaxy granite, as I used to work with granite and tile. We'll see how that goes.
Dave, you're absolutely right. this stuff is VERY nice. also runs upwards of $200 for a 3/4"x48"x72" board! was hoping to have a 4'x8' sheet to work with, but this was the biggest sheet they make. been wanting to do a fonken style box with this stuff to utilize the gorgeous edge grain.
Dave, you're absolutely right. this stuff is VERY nice. also runs upwards of $200 for a 3/4"x48"x72" board! was hoping to have a 4'x8' sheet to work with, but this was the biggest sheet they make. been wanting to do a fonken style box with this stuff to utilize the gorgeous edge grain.
not entirely done yet, but this is my latest project. castle microtowers for EL-70 made with neapolitan bamboo ply. chamfer on all edges. more pictures in a bit..
Ichchch ..... maybe not......
My first foray into 'fullrange', but not really fullrange as I'm pairing them with a sub. Initial impressions are not good at all, but hopefully they can be improved - any thoughts please comment in the thread I started about it!
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Hi, can I ask what you used to finish the plywood with? And what colour it was?
Thanks
Thanks
Hey everyone,
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Just wanted to share with you all my first attempt at DIY speakers. I spent some time in these forums learning about speaker building and finally got underway.
The volume is a similar size to the minionken (slightly different volume and vent sizes for the CSS FR125SR drivers) but i was after a set of floorstanding speakers so i improvised.
Coming from using an old set of crappy Sony satellite speakers and sub these sound pretty amazing, but I guess anything sounds better than the old ones, plus i'm probably pretty bias...
Lots of great projects here, and feels like some kind of novice.
But my project was building small OB's, or what i call "WAB's" (Wife acceptance baffle) to use with my sub, which is a 40l construction, made 6 years ago. Drivers: 1 passive and 1 active Peerless XXLS 12" powered by a Hypex HS500 (500w 8ohm).
This is directly connected to my Dynaco ST70. Since it doesnt have any speaker/amp input i had to get a friend of mine to make a simple speakercable-rca one using some resistors.
When showing pictures of this it made some controversy on one of my countries netbased forums.
Because of the "toilettseat" shape, the size of the baffle and the use of the SEAS FA22 which is more suited to closed designs (TQWT??.
My thought was to make it as neat as possible, so instead of making it wide, i did compensate with making it deep, with a kind of uneven back.
Right now i let it work down to 130hz, due to a astonishingly good measurement of -/+3 db from 350-17500hz...
This was before the last modification to the baffle and i believe it reach down to about 200hz?
I could have let it play full frequency, but to relieve it from strain in the bass i put a single 200uf with by-pass. Thus not playing any bass under 200hz, the element still works together with the sub withe punchbass, helping to mask the sub.
To be honest: i think it sounds and looks great to a very modest price
But my project was building small OB's, or what i call "WAB's" (Wife acceptance baffle) to use with my sub, which is a 40l construction, made 6 years ago. Drivers: 1 passive and 1 active Peerless XXLS 12" powered by a Hypex HS500 (500w 8ohm).
This is directly connected to my Dynaco ST70. Since it doesnt have any speaker/amp input i had to get a friend of mine to make a simple speakercable-rca one using some resistors.
When showing pictures of this it made some controversy on one of my countries netbased forums.
Because of the "toilettseat" shape, the size of the baffle and the use of the SEAS FA22 which is more suited to closed designs (TQWT??.
My thought was to make it as neat as possible, so instead of making it wide, i did compensate with making it deep, with a kind of uneven back.
Right now i let it work down to 130hz, due to a astonishingly good measurement of -/+3 db from 350-17500hz...
This was before the last modification to the baffle and i believe it reach down to about 200hz?
I could have let it play full frequency, but to relieve it from strain in the bass i put a single 200uf with by-pass. Thus not playing any bass under 200hz, the element still works together with the sub withe punchbass, helping to mask the sub.
To be honest: i think it sounds and looks great to a very modest price
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Ansepe74,
Interesting that a toilet seat would have high WAF
Actually, they look nice, and as for full range, I'm kinda most into the minimalist aspects of FR designs (no or minimal crossover, single driver, etc.) though my current fave (posted earlier) is FR with a helper tweeter "Crossed over" with a single 4.7uF cap. So I'd consider yours essentially full range.
The baffle looks like it comes from some kind of butcher block or something. What is it, and any wisdom learned from using it?
Carl
Interesting that a toilet seat would have high WAF
Actually, they look nice, and as for full range, I'm kinda most into the minimalist aspects of FR designs (no or minimal crossover, single driver, etc.) though my current fave (posted earlier) is FR with a helper tweeter "Crossed over" with a single 4.7uF cap. So I'd consider yours essentially full range.
The baffle looks like it comes from some kind of butcher block or something. What is it, and any wisdom learned from using it?
Carl
Thanks, Carl!
Good to hear.
Im considering buying some PA-basses and make a baffle with å shape suited to the fullrange-baffle.
Going to connect a amp to the "satelite out" on the sub and make a cut where the sub work under 50hz, while the basses takes care of things up to about 250hz where fa22 takes care of the rest.
My experience is that the bass often needs lots of watts to get the last punch and attack.
Im also considering a fostex supertweeter.
I share your view when it comes to xover, the simplest are the best, and due to the quite flat frequency its easy. The bennic sounded quite dead, so i added a by-pass.
Had some quite good effekt with my Klipsches using by-pass.
The baffle is made out of birch. Im not quite sure of what its called, but its pieces glued together. It is connected with screws to the "open box" making the baffle a little more solid and resonance free.
Good to hear.
Im considering buying some PA-basses and make a baffle with å shape suited to the fullrange-baffle.
Going to connect a amp to the "satelite out" on the sub and make a cut where the sub work under 50hz, while the basses takes care of things up to about 250hz where fa22 takes care of the rest.
My experience is that the bass often needs lots of watts to get the last punch and attack.
Im also considering a fostex supertweeter.
I share your view when it comes to xover, the simplest are the best, and due to the quite flat frequency its easy. The bennic sounded quite dead, so i added a by-pass.
Had some quite good effekt with my Klipsches using by-pass.
The baffle is made out of birch. Im not quite sure of what its called, but its pieces glued together. It is connected with screws to the "open box" making the baffle a little more solid and resonance free.
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Yeah..
They have in many ways excedeed my expectations.
Though a little restricted in the treble, it still surprises.
And i guess a supertweeter will do the deal.
