Fostex FE206E or audio nirvana super 8 cast?

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I am glad that you had a good laugh after my idea of posting on youtube (though I do not compare systems nor write audiophile reviews through it)

I only proposed this as meager means of having a general idea of the sound that can be had with a FR on my enclosures...of course if I am not happy with the quality of the recording I won't post it. It is the only way I know to share the product of our beloved systems.
At the speed computer-related-things devellop, I hope in the near future there will be not reason to laugh. ;)

Regards,
M
 
frugal-phile™
Joined 2001
Paid Member
SHARING is one of our main problems here. We can spend hours in the workshop, but really working hand in hand would mean FedExing a cwt. of particle board to and fro over a few thousand miles...:headbash:

Not particle board, but plywood, i did just ship scootmoose a pair of speakers so that we would have a common reference. They were small thou (and are one of my favorites)

http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/blog.php?b=26

dAve
 
:)Good one, Dave! I mentioned particle board because building test specimens from BB is unaffordable over here, especially when dreaming horns...some 45-50€ per sq.m. But sending Scott a pair of the whatever...just a stupid idea: why does a reference have to be really good? Something easy to build, but based on a driver everyone can lay hands on, wherever he lives - just so we have a common base to compare measurments/listening impressions...we´d be (as hobbyists usually are) head and shoulders above the bickering industry.:D
 
if particle board is a bad choice, would home depot "sande" hardwood plywood be acceptable for prototypes, and give a good idea of what they'll sound like when completed in BB? i thought the "sande ply" looked to be the best quality plywood offered between the two big box category busters lowes/hd. judging by the end grain voids appeared few and far between and very small, still nothing like quality bb but how bad could it be?
 
mp9, particle board is bloody nice, actually - as to resonance decay it beats MDF hands down. The problem is making it look good: the edges soak up filler by the ton, and using two-component filler (automotove shelf in the DIY store) can drive you to madness, as that stuff hardens faster than you can apply it.:gnasher:
 
Josh, I don´t know about US schools - do you have access to workshops, tools, people who can and will teach you although not mandatory courses?

Pit,

I have almost all of my tools here at my apartment (i have a shed) and there is also a craft center that I can join for a fee. Unfortunately there are no classes that I can take at school. I am trying to go to the College of the Redwoods for fine woodworking after I graduate, its a 9-month program. College of the Redwoods


Thanks,

Josh
 
if particle board is a bad choice, would home depot "sande" hardwood plywood be acceptable for prototypes, and give a good idea of what they'll sound like when completed in BB? i thought the "sande ply" looked to be the best quality plywood offered between the two big box category busters lowes/hd. judging by the end grain voids appeared few and far between and very small, still nothing like quality bb but how bad could it be?

My local HD has some 7-ply 23/32nds AC softwood plywood from Chile on special right now. I think Lowe's used to carry it as "enhanced core" plywood. For $24/sheet, I think it's quite appropriate for prototyping. And all of my builds are basically prototypes!
 
It's correct that video from mobile is not good compared to a Sony Digital Handycam. It has a 16 bit stereo with built in mic. The principle of taking a video with a digital handycam, is almost similar to recording a live band playing in the room. They use multi microphones and mixers. I used to go with my friend who is a band member, and took videos of their practice in a non acoustically treated room. During editing, I realized that the sound if not 100%, almost the same as I heard in their live performance. So, I tried it in my audio system to see if there's big discrepancies in audio quality. Of course there is, and actual listening is still better, but almost the same. There I concluded, that "if the sound of the audio system is good in the video, the sound of it is better in actual listening." On the otherhand, if the sound of the audio system already poor in the video or cannot reproduce like live sound, is also poor in actual listening.

I am not technically good like other gurus in audio in this forum. But I trust my ears and judgment when it comes to audio. My exposure in live band gave me an experience to enhance my skills in listening to proper sound of each instrument played in a music. For me, if the speaker cannot reproduce details and holographic imaging of the music, is considered a poor speaker. If it is not true from the original recording of a cd or vinyl recording, like enhanced bass and exaggerated mid frequency, is a poor speaker. Thus, if the speaker can reproduce the actual sound of live music or studio recording without using any DSP or tone controls, is a good speaker.

I use technical informations of an audio product as reference to identify what I really need in my audio hobby. So, if the sound reproduced in a speaker is far from what I heard in actual sound of each instrument, is considered a poor speaker. All the things I said is only my subjective opinion and not a general idea of a good speaker, as per book. I don't rely much on theories, but only by experience along the road of audio world.

The reason why I explain this things is for other people to understand what I am talking about. Audio Nirvana is a cheap fullrange speaker with High Quality sound. I don't limit myself in tweaking my audio. I am not afraid to experiment. That's what Do It Yourself all about. I tweak as far as I can until I get the sound I want in a speaker. I gather information(s) from other people to learn from their experience(s) and mix my ideas to come up with a good principle in audio. I am not a genius, that's why I need to learn from other experts who have same taste in audio like mine.

I am not good technically. I learn from trial and error. What I share are only good things which I already experienced.

Peace to all.:)
 
super 8 alnico [audio nirvana?]

maybe it's a bit out of thread, but since everybody has talk a lot about AN 8" driver,

i've a pair of AN super 8", i'm really unsitisfied with the bass of the minimonitor enclosure they suggested at commonsense.com and had no like putting them in a 90cm tall angular spiral horn.

could anyone suggest what would be the best BLH plan to suit them? possibly with front-opening... i think many are wondering that



thanks. Paolo

question pablo ...
have you tried those super 8 drivers in an open baffle? and if so can you measure how low they go? 56hz?

also can you say that in the range they do produce, how does it sound? do you have any pictures? i am looking to make a simply open baffle and not having low bass doesnt bother me here in my apartment ... just want the purest sound ...
d
 
I recently EnABL'd a pair of AN Super 8 drivers. I was struck by how much downward dynamics they showed, brand new, out of the box. I was also struck by how badly they shrieked at 9 K, 12 K and the rising top end above 15 K. They have two Raleigh wave zones and both are very active and are the reasons for the shrieks. These were the non alnico drivers.
Bud
Hey Bud,
Could you point me in the right direction on where to find info on EnABL ing the AN Super 8. I have searched the forums bout couldn't find a how-to for these drivers?
I am using them in a OB with a Beta 15" Bi amped, SET & solid state respectively.
I an interested in trying this out.
Many Thanks
Ian
 
baffle materials ...

everybody is talking about natural plywoods .. i guess its 'natural' and has this organic vibe it lends to resonance control ..

but ..

what about accrylic ? what could be cooler than an open baffle speaker mounted in a clear 1" thick panel?

Acrylic Sheet, 1" Thick

would accrylic be bad for reflections? it couldnt be a resonance problem because that this is so solid it probably couldnt vibrate with a hammer put to it ..

Acrylic Sheet, 1" Thick

any thoughts?
 
i used them for a while on simple OB, very large, than very thin: fact is it doesn't work at all without augmenting woofers for you have to account both for bass cancellation and the super 8" gain in the HF response wich starting at 1khz can climb up to 15db... now i have only one driver and it gives me some fun on a 1m wide baffle with very very heavy DSP based equalizer, but then when you shelf so much HF and give so much boost to LF i don't see a point for using it even this way... it's 1mm xmax is always out of run if you boost LF... still on OB it's a very vivid and "fast" sounding driver, if i didn't lost one i would for sure gone with woofers and something like the miniDSP to bi-amp it.


maybe large baffle with driver inclined close to the floor would be better, there's a plan for it on CSA, but i don't think super 8" is the best of their drivers for it, maybe this way you'll be ok with just adding a sub somewhere, but what is the point when you lost OB woofers sound quality and also the phantom image you can have with OB drivers in the correct position?
 
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i used them for a while on simple OB, very large, than very thin: fact is it doesn't work at all without augmenting woofers for you have to account both for bass cancellation and the super 8" gain in the HF response wich starting at 1khz can climb up to 15db... now i have only one driver and it gives me some fun on a 1m wide baffle with very very heavy DSP based equalizer, but then when you shelf so much HF and give so much boost to LF i don't see a point for using it even this way... it's 1mm xmax is always out of run if you boost LF... still on OB it's a very vivid and "fast" sounding driver, if i didn't lost one i would for sure gone with woofers and something like the miniDSP to bi-amp it.


maybe large baffle with driver inclined close to the floor would be better, there's a plan for it on CSA, but i don't think super 8" is the best of their drivers for it, maybe this way you'll be ok with just adding a sub somewhere, but what is the point when you lost OB woofers sound quality and also the phantom image you can have with OB drivers in the correct position?


if the super 8 alnico isnt all that [shreekyness] that leaves only 2 other credible choices ..

1. visaton b200
2. 12" audio nirvana driver ..

anybody have experience with either of these in an open baffle? remember i just want SIMPLE ... not loud, not needing to disturb the neighbors in my apt .. so subwoofer bass isnt a huge issue .. just decent mid bass .. i guess just looking at air mass moved, the 12" driver should win out?

a couple common things to look for open baffle seem to be ... high Qts ... alnico magnets ... hemp as a cone material .. and an impedance at 8ohms+

just thinking outloud and wondering ...
 
Hey Bud,
Could you point me in the right direction on where to find info on EnABL ing the AN Super 8. I have searched the forums bout couldn't find a how-to for these drivers?
I am using them in a OB with a Beta 15" Bi amped, SET & solid state respectively.
I an interested in trying this out.
Many Thanks
Ian

I haven't released the AN 8 layout. I am not entirely satisfied with the original approach, though we are talking about pretty minor dissatisfaction here. I have been intending to treat another pair on hand, after working with the AN 15 driver. This driver needed no gloss coating at all, and just a small amount of the acrylic damping glue on the outer surface of the whizzer cone. The entire process was informed by locating and placing a pattern set upon resonance nodes only. These were close to the locations that the original generic pattern placement would have called for, but placing the patterns as Soongsc specified eliminated the need for Gloss coating. I have yet to find the time to complete the AN 8 rework, but may find enough time this coming week.

I would not recommend that you treat only the AN8, The 15" will benefit as much or more, but I have not had any pass through my hands, so you would have to become expert at discovering the resonance nodes and creating a pattern set for a guide. Not at all difficult to do, just a bit time consuming, requiring you to treat a few drivers before tackling the ones that matter. Something you really really need to do anyway!

Bud
 
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