Finally, an affordable CD Transport: the Shigaclone story

Thanks John, I did not see C963, right.
So in last Peter's configuraion there's no need for removing the two caps marked as "2" here, right?
 

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woodturner-fran said:
Audio 1st: can you tell us more about that clock (what was the seller on ebay?) and also its sonics?


Fran


Hi Fran, clock is available eBay , comes unassembled. I found it created a brighter sound than the standard crystal, not sure it was an improvement to me.
I have changed DAC's since I last used it and it may sound different now, I may try it again in the future.
 
woodturner-fran said:
Audio 1st: can you tell us more about that clock (what was the seller on ebay?) and also its sonics?


Fran

You can find it even here (can chose clock frequency). Components should be almost the same but I found this board a little better since the clock board is elastic rubber suspended:
http://cgi.ebay.it/Low-Jitter-clock...mQQptZOther_MP3_Players?hash=item220282761555

Like the other one comes disassembled and you have to solder some not extremely easy smd components.
 
I posted this in another thread, thought it might be of interest here?

An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.


Sony CD player stabiliser/disc/clamps are available as spare parts,
not sure if they will fit the spindle of the Sanyo drive.

Model | Part # | Price | URL
CDP-XA5ES |A-4660-688-A | $76.15
CDP-XA7ES | A-4660-862-A |$115.95
CDP-XA20ES | X-4949-009-1 | $35.98 | here
CDP-XA30ES | X-4947-838-1 | $47.38 | here
CDP-XA50ES | A-4660-688-A | $76.15 | here
CDP-XA555ES | A-4411-793-A | ??
CDP-X3000 | X-4947-761-1 | $35.98 | here
CDP-X5000 | 4-979-043-01 | na
SCD-1/777ES | A-4672-800-A | $59.99 | here
CDP-XB920 | X-4950-254-1 | $43.03 | here
CDP-XB930 | X-4951-832-1 | $38.40

Regards
James
 
Erik van Voorst said:
Hello Jitter

Can you tell me in which store/city you found the 31 ...
I had a remote spare ...but only read the posts this evening as an update....(to busy reading specs and building)...SORRY :cannotbe:

Don't worry, a brand new '51 was only €16 more expensive from Megapool.nl (incl. delivery) than the '31 I was talking about.

I saw that (incomplete) demo model of the '31 in MediaMarkt/Eindhoven.

How's your progress with the PiTBull?
 
I too have just got a '51 - £9 from ebay, brand new, but with a missing tape door :D :D :D :D

One question/clarification I have (after reading through 40 odd posts today I think I know the answer, but want to check).

To put a signal through a DAC I have to connect A1 and A2 to a suitable D out socket. My understanding is that this bypasses the onboard DAC, but I'm not sure how it does this as the onboard DAC is actually in one of the chips.

Can someone please first confirm my understanding of connecting to an external DAC, and please try to explain how the internal DAC is bypassed.

Thanks
 
Apologies in advance guys but just a quick question...

So far I have only read up to page 48 of this 110 page epic :bigeyes: and I just wanted to ask whether modifying the EZ51 b/box is basically the same as the original '31 and that there are no major differences/problems?

I haven't been able to find any new JVC EZ51's but there are a couple of 'B grade - customer returns' on Ebay so I wanted to pick one up quite soon before they vanish ;)

Many thanks!
Steve
 
westers151 said:
I too have just got a '51 - £9 from ebay, brand new, but with a missing tape door :D :D :D :D

One question/clarification I have (after reading through 40 odd posts today I think I know the answer, but want to check).

To put a signal through a DAC I have to connect A1 and A2 to a suitable D out socket. My understanding is that this bypasses the onboard DAC, but I'm not sure how it does this as the onboard DAC is actually in one of the chips.

Can someone please first confirm my understanding of connecting to an external DAC, and please try to explain how the internal DAC is bypassed.

Thanks

The DAC is indeed inside the LC78601, but you won't use it. You don't need to do anything to the internal DAC to be able to use an external DAC.
This IC has a digital output that only needs the signal level corrected to S/PDIF specifications.
That has been written a few times but I'll save you going through the many pages:

- on the CD-board (next to the connector for the door-switch) you'll find pads labeled GND, +5V and Dout.
- solder a 100 Ohm resistor on the GND-pad
- solder a 300 Ohm resistor on the Dout pad
- solder the other end of the resistors together
- solder the centre conductor of a digital interlink on this spot
- solder the shielding of the coax on the GND pad.
You can also choose to use a female RCA connector so that you don't have to chop up your expensive interlink.

Attachment: this is the spot you're looking for to connect your separate DAC to.
 

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westers151 said:
Yep, exactly the same. I've been pouring over my '51 board today and looking at all the posts/schematics and changes on here and everything matches.

Oh, and Argos stock the '51 - type in JVC and look in the CD Players and Radio section.

Well, there are some differences in layout but the most important item for us, the CD-board of course, is the same.
 
Integrating external DAC with CD Player?

I've got a cheap DAC kit on order (to get me started), but I've been thinking about where to put the thing. I would really like to put the DAC board in the same chasis as the CD player and have the power supply seperate. However, both the DAC and CD player will need a power supply. What options do I have for powering both of these items off a single transformer?

Can I take a feed from the rectifier unit described for the CD player and then use a regulator to feed the DAC?