jneutron said:
Your welcome, his welcome, my welcome, unless you mean you are welcome. That contraction is you're. Cheez and you with the college degree and all
.(After the 20 kids posts, I figure cheap shots are now OK.)
copperhead: Go to page one of this thread, read
. Beware of endless loop 
.
I really think that the very best way to remove any discontinuities in the path from the amplifier to the speaker which can cause dark echo, phase cancellation through standing waves and pink group delay distortion, is to unwind a portion of the speaker voice coil and run that back to the amplifier. Bear in mind that 8 ohm speakers can be separated farther from the amplifier than 4 ohm speakers.
If there is a crossover in the path remove that at once, crossovers are bad news for pure tone. In fact, forget the amplifier entirely. Amplifiers often introduce distortion and whole grain.
Unwind a bit of wire out of the phono cartridge and using only the finest boutique solder and a Bic lighter, join the cartridge and speaker wire between turntable and speaker cabinet. The actual placement of the connection is not critical to performance.
Be sure to suspend these delicate wires above laying on the floor with 100 kV BIL rated power company shedded porcelain glazed insulators. Make sure these insulators are kept clean and dry. Atmoshpheric humidity and surface dust can cause unwanted leakage paths and mess with the precision of the system impedance.
If there is a crossover in the path remove that at once, crossovers are bad news for pure tone. In fact, forget the amplifier entirely. Amplifiers often introduce distortion and whole grain.
Unwind a bit of wire out of the phono cartridge and using only the finest boutique solder and a Bic lighter, join the cartridge and speaker wire between turntable and speaker cabinet. The actual placement of the connection is not critical to performance.
Be sure to suspend these delicate wires above laying on the floor with 100 kV BIL rated power company shedded porcelain glazed insulators. Make sure these insulators are kept clean and dry. Atmoshpheric humidity and surface dust can cause unwanted leakage paths and mess with the precision of the system impedance.
From definitions in The Devil's DP Dictionary, appearing of course on separated pages in their proper alphabetic sequence.
Endless loop: see Loop, endless
Loop, endless: see Endless loop
Unfortunately I loaned this valuable little reference work years ago and it never came back, so I can't cite author or publication data.
Regards.
Aengus
I've been off this board and haven't messed with audio for a couple years. But, wanting to make time to get back into it.
Note that I haven't read through this entire thread, so I hope this isn't a repeat.
With that, I had tried a lot of cables, some very expensive ICs and speaker cables (not the smartest thing I ever did), as well as cat 5 and a variety of other solid core cables. I even tried a bit of silver, but didn't really care for it, not as lively, as I recall.
In the end, I landed on the 47 labs OTA cable. It's pricey as a packge, but I bought left over parts where I could find folks selling them. I think it is the best I had used and was really happy with the results, using it for both ICs and speaker.
I see they now have a specific speaker cable out, which likely sounds fantastic. But it comes at a premium most won't likely shell out for.
Hopefully this will help. I think it's definitely worth trying if you can get your hands on some.
Then one has to ask, will it make the music more enjoyable? Likely not, but it sure is fun to try different things.
Note that I haven't read through this entire thread, so I hope this isn't a repeat.
With that, I had tried a lot of cables, some very expensive ICs and speaker cables (not the smartest thing I ever did), as well as cat 5 and a variety of other solid core cables. I even tried a bit of silver, but didn't really care for it, not as lively, as I recall.
In the end, I landed on the 47 labs OTA cable. It's pricey as a packge, but I bought left over parts where I could find folks selling them. I think it is the best I had used and was really happy with the results, using it for both ICs and speaker.
I see they now have a specific speaker cable out, which likely sounds fantastic. But it comes at a premium most won't likely shell out for.
Hopefully this will help. I think it's definitely worth trying if you can get your hands on some.
Then one has to ask, will it make the music more enjoyable? Likely not, but it sure is fun to try different things.
Thanks Dave. It's nice to come back and visit.
A lot going on. I check back every once in a while. Interesting to come back see guys painting patterns on their cones. That one threw me for a loop, I'll admit.
I have some catching up to do and I'm determined to get a new build under way, though it'll be a bit before I get there.
Nice to see that the single driver site is back up. I spent some time there before discovering this site.
Here's to some reading...
(any recommendations appreciated)
A lot going on. I check back every once in a while. Interesting to come back see guys painting patterns on their cones. That one threw me for a loop, I'll admit.
I have some catching up to do and I'm determined to get a new build under way, though it'll be a bit before I get there.
Nice to see that the single driver site is back up. I spent some time there before discovering this site.
Here's to some reading...
(any recommendations appreciated)
Finding a fellow audiophile or joining the local club is invaluable. It allows you to borrow cables maybe even equipment or to try some of your gear in a different set-up.
Unfortunately audiophile cables are priced prohibitively, preventing a trail and error approach to select a favorite or of even determining if any discernible difference exists.
By swapping with my friend's set-up, I learned that for me cables mattered quite a bit and that mostly, the more expensive ones sounded best to me and to my friend.
Unfortunately audiophile cables are priced prohibitively, preventing a trail and error approach to select a favorite or of even determining if any discernible difference exists.
By swapping with my friend's set-up, I learned that for me cables mattered quite a bit and that mostly, the more expensive ones sounded best to me and to my friend.
Scottmoose said:
The QED Airloc bananas are my favourite by far.
They have a better contact with the inside wire, than typical connectors. At about 8 euros each, they are definitely not cheap and will end to cost more than the cable attached to them. But they are really good.
they need a crimper to be fitted, though.
For me, bananas have two problems: 1. The pressure between the outside male post and the inner female socket is not sufficient to be gas tight and 2 if it is gas tight, any plating will soon rub off.
When I had bananas on my speaker cables, I noticed regular cleaning about every 3 months of contact surfaces improved the sound. Now with rhodium plated lugs cleaning has not been necessary for over 2 years.
On my bananas the gold plating was soon gone as a direct result of removing and re-inserting the banana posts for cleaning. The expanding locking bananas actually seemed to make things worse.
When I had bananas on my speaker cables, I noticed regular cleaning about every 3 months of contact surfaces improved the sound. Now with rhodium plated lugs cleaning has not been necessary for over 2 years.
On my bananas the gold plating was soon gone as a direct result of removing and re-inserting the banana posts for cleaning. The expanding locking bananas actually seemed to make things worse.
I run 1 gauge pure copper wires combined with twisted pair copper. I'm cheap else I would run silver for the twisted pair. My binding posts can barely accept all this wire. I get the pure copper 1gauge from closeouts and clearances (jumper cables!) and the twisted pair was left over from my home alarm installation.
i got a good buy on a 20' run of the new clear(copper) and white 8tc and thought it would be good to have around. if i don't like it i won't lose money on it, can't say the same of raw silver wire. i only need a 7'-8' pair and need to decide if it's better to leave it as a 10' pair or have a odd 4' or 5' length left over after i cut it.
Hi Telstar,
I'm still using the DNM wire to drive my modded Coral beta 8's above the Lorrantz 317 base drivers - it's one of the clearest cables that I've used but it does have a definite drop of low base - it's accurate enough, no problems but just a bit thin - I'm a nut for accurate base.
With the upcoming 2 amp system, I'll probably use heavier guage copper single solid with a cotton sleeve for "heavier" base.
I'm still using the DNM wire to drive my modded Coral beta 8's above the Lorrantz 317 base drivers - it's one of the clearest cables that I've used but it does have a definite drop of low base - it's accurate enough, no problems but just a bit thin - I'm a nut for accurate base.
With the upcoming 2 amp system, I'll probably use heavier guage copper single solid with a cotton sleeve for "heavier" base.
Tried Expensive silver ribbon for speakers and no good for me either, but I do prefer silver interconnects - more changes in the future as still not satisfied with current setup, good as it is.
I tend to be quite critical about sound reproduction!
The room is another disaster awaiting major improvement - have just discovered a sound control material product called "Acoustica" - shows great promise in this area.
For now .
I tend to be quite critical about sound reproduction!
The room is another disaster awaiting major improvement - have just discovered a sound control material product called "Acoustica" - shows great promise in this area.
For now .
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