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F5T Premium kit GB

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B

backefel

Member
Joined 2010
buzzforb said:
backefel,
Here is a pic of my current V2. It is on side by side Heastink USA 10.08 profile that is 6" tall and 16" deep. The fins are longer, but not anodized black. I would have no problem putting the V3 on this setup, but it would be pushing it a bit, especially considering it is not enclosed. With a well vented bottom and top, i think it would be ok. Put it all on a granite shelf with a 120mm fan mounted in the center and you are set. Truthfully, mounting fets directly to sinks would help somewhat, as the spreader causes efficiency loss. Just a bit of reference.
Click to expand...


Wow, that was quicker than I expected.
I'll stick with the second version though even if it's really tempting with the extra power. It's my first power amplifier so it might be good to have some spare cash for replacement parts if I manage to do something stupid.

Btw your build is starting to look really good!

Btw it's really looking good, the build I mean.
 
L

Lo_Tse

Member
Joined 2006
buzzforb said:
backefel,
Here is a pic of my current V2. It is on side by side Heastink USA 10.08 profile that is 6" tall and 16" deep. The fins are longer, but not anodized black. I would have no problem putting the V3 on this setup, but it would be pushing it a bit, especially considering it is not enclosed. With a well vented bottom and top, i think it would be ok. Put it all on a granite shelf with a 120mm fan mounted in the center and you are set. Truthfully, mounting fets directly to sinks would help somewhat, as the spreader causes efficiency loss. Just a bit of reference.
Click to expand...


Buzzforb,

Very nice build. I wish I have your skill on metal work! I am with you that it is better to build the V3 is better as mono blocks. If I am going to use a chasis like yours, how should one hook up the 4 MOSFETs from each heatsink to the PCB (8 MOSFETs per block). The board will have to be hanging in the middle of the case with wires running to the heatsink on both side?

By the way, please let me know when should I sign up for the GB on the matched MOSFETs and diodes. Thanks!

Regards,

Lo_Tse
 
L

Lo_Tse

Member
Joined 2006
buzzforb said:
Are you using TeaBags boards? Ill finish my monoblock using his boards this weekend. It should give you an idea of how to do it.ideal sinks would be flanged Conrad sinks. Would make it very easy.
Click to expand...

Have not decided yet. I am leaning towards the board from the DIY store. Unfortunately, it is not ready yet. You are right, the Conrad sinks with a 90 degree flange would be perfect for the job. One doesn't have to bend the legs of the MOSFET to fit. Looking forward to see your monoblock.

Regards,
 
B

bugzbunny

Member
Joined 2009
Hi,

I will take T-HA caps. This is my first venture into group-buys; and I am hoping that
at some time
a). I will know how much I owe? :)
b). I will know which components I am missing to get? Right now I know I have to get the boards and the case from the diyaudio store and the tranny from somewhere else. Is it safe to assume that this group-buy will get me everything else I need?
 
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buzzforb

buzzforb

Member
Joined 2010
Here are the options, fellas.
Panasonic T-HA 63V 15,000uF - $8/piece 3000Hrs@ 105C - 5.66A Ripple, @60C - 12.5A Ripple

Panasonic T-UP 50V 22,000uF - $6/piece 3000Hrs@ 85C - 7.57A Ripple, @60C - 10.5A Ripple

You either have to take a hit on the uF front to get longer lasting tougher caps or save money and get lower taed caps, longevity wise. I personally have no problem with either and will make a decision by the end of the weekend based on either the response or lack thereof. I think T-UP is sounding better, IMO.
We will be using Vishay RS power resiistors for the R in CRC. In comparison to Mills, they
have the same specs, exact value(we only need one, vs. two for the Mills), and are cheaper to boot.
I will change my mind on this, but it will take overwhelming support. PLease consider that the Mills options is 4X more expensive and I just don't hink you are going to get that return in the form of significantly different sound.

Decisions will be made Sunday on final parts type and orders placed Monday to get the ball rolling.
 
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R

Russellc

Member
Joined 2003
Paid Member
buzzforb said:
Here are the options, fellas.
Panasonic T-HA 63V 15,000uF - $8/piece 3000Hrs@ 105C - 5.66A Ripple, @60C - 12.5A Ripple

Panasonic T-UP 50V 22,000uF - $6/piece 3000Hrs@ 85C - 7.57A Ripple, @60C - 10.5A Ripple

You either have to take a hit on the uF front to get longer lasting tougher caps or save money and get lower taed caps, longevity wise. I personally have no problem with either and will make a decision by the end of the weekend based on either the response or lack thereof. I think T-UP is sounding better, IMO.
We will be using Vishay RS power resiistors for the R in CRC. In comparison to Mills, they
have the same specs, exact value(we only need one, vs. two for the Mills), and are cheaper to boot.
I will change my mind on this, but it will take overwhelming support. PLease consider that the Mills options is 4X more expensive and I just don't hink you are going to get that return in the form of significantly different sound.

Decisions will be made Sunday on final parts type and orders placed Monday to get the ball rolling.
Click to expand...

I'm good with what ever choice you end up making. I've used both, no problem to me. Same with resistors, I'm sure the Vishay is a quality part.

Russellc
 
F

fudce

Member
Joined 2005
RdK 845 - V3 (2) , PSU (2) - Yes
RusselC - V2, PSU - Yes
Dane - V2, PSU - Yes
mkoerner - V2 (2), V3 (1)
mordikai - V2 (2), PSU - yes
mordikai - V3 (2), PSU - yes
sts9fan - V3, PSU - yes
Naturlyd - V2 (2), V3 (2), PSU - yes
Wijgers - V2, PSU - no
SRMcGee - V3, PSU - yes
skunark - V3, PSU - yes
Tytte71 - V3, PSU - yes
Bugzbunny - V3 (2), PSU - Yes
Kvorning- V3(2), PSU -Yes
wjh - V2, PSU - yes
backefel - V2, PSU -yes
Lo_Tse - V3, PSU - no
RKH - V3, PSU - yes
fudce - V3, PSU - yes
 
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