here is the craigslist link, I am unsure if they are still available.
2 FISHER floor speakers
Noah's 8's is the project. let me know what you think. Here is the link
Speaker Projects Gallery,Speaker Design Goals, Project Materials, Enclosure Assembly, Speaker Project Photos and More, Submitted By Parts Express Customers.
2 FISHER floor speakers
Noah's 8's is the project. let me know what you think. Here is the link
Speaker Projects Gallery,Speaker Design Goals, Project Materials, Enclosure Assembly, Speaker Project Photos and More, Submitted By Parts Express Customers.
DIY Audio and self control - a bit of an oxymoron I'd say
or it's been said that I'm one
I'd pick one of the line arrays... there are two shown... the 8" speakers will likely work fine, but ur not going to get much more than background music levels to maybe average levels in an outdoor space, even one with a roof...
The speakers you show are not "large" rather they are standard size "bookshelf" speakers.
What we would call large speakers would be the size of a dishwasher or washing machine, maybe as large as a refrigerator!
Perhaps you want to adjust your frame of reference?
_-_-bear
The speakers you show are not "large" rather they are standard size "bookshelf" speakers.
What we would call large speakers would be the size of a dishwasher or washing machine, maybe as large as a refrigerator!
Perhaps you want to adjust your frame of reference?
_-_-bear
Big is good, because it is usually loud.
_-_-bear
I've been putzing around with my garage speakers all summer--the massive heat wave with 100 to 112F (38 to 45C) is not helping...add a few degrees for being in a garage.
Should everyone build line arrays for their garage? They do have a BIG sound because they are BIG! Not too bad 6 ft. 2 inches tall (188 cm) 13 inches wide (33 cm) and 7 inches (18 cm) deep and weigh 75 pounds (34 KG). Although the twelve 5" woofers mate to forty-eight 10mm dome tweeters which helps the highs tremendously, they do NEED additional EQ though...
Those Stentorians would be much easier, less expensive and give the output you need, the size you like and no EQ required. $215 for all the woofers, tweeter, crossover parts and rubber feet--that is a great price! Since it is such a "PA-ish" design, they should be left alone when left outside--as long as you ugly them up some.
Let us know how it works out.
You do not need to mate a line array to another line array of tweeters... although you can.
One can use a single high output (horn loaded) tweeter, for example and get good sound.
We're not talking high-end perfection here, we're talking LOUD for a semi-outdoor space.
The idea that I am trying to get across is that you do not need to follow a design like the Stentorians (an old name brought forward) you can just grab inexpensive drivers and make a line array and play it. EQ on the bottom depends on the size of the baffle AND the F3 of the drivers in the box... but yes, in most cases small drivers in a line array will need EQ... but $215 for a finished design like those Stentorians is a good deal (I did not look at the particulars and if it need crazy nuts xovers or electronic EQ - if so, I'd look for a better set of drivers that do not need much EQ...)
_-_- bear
One can use a single high output (horn loaded) tweeter, for example and get good sound.
We're not talking high-end perfection here, we're talking LOUD for a semi-outdoor space.
The idea that I am trying to get across is that you do not need to follow a design like the Stentorians (an old name brought forward) you can just grab inexpensive drivers and make a line array and play it. EQ on the bottom depends on the size of the baffle AND the F3 of the drivers in the box... but yes, in most cases small drivers in a line array will need EQ... but $215 for a finished design like those Stentorians is a good deal (I did not look at the particulars and if it need crazy nuts xovers or electronic EQ - if so, I'd look for a better set of drivers that do not need much EQ...)
_-_- bear
What we would call large speakers would be the size of a dishwasher or washing machine, maybe as large as a refrigerator!
Now you're talkin'. I call those real speakers
Okay I have decided to go the hard way. I purchased the woofer tester to get the parameters. They are attached, 1&2 are the Bose 4 inch drivers, 3&4 are the 6" woofers.
I will have to purchase a set of tweeters. I would like to do a passive crossover. I have the loudspeaker cookbook, but I am overwhelm with information but I am still working through it. If you have another book you can recommend please point me to it.
Here are my current line of questions...
Can I move this thread to multi-way forums and how to do it...
I am not understanding how to set crossover points to build a crossover.
Octaves is something else that I am not able to put into perspective.
As far as how big the box has to be,I planned on using the speaker box designer on diyaudioandvideo.com.
Thanks Again,
-Gus
I will have to purchase a set of tweeters. I would like to do a passive crossover. I have the loudspeaker cookbook, but I am overwhelm with information but I am still working through it. If you have another book you can recommend please point me to it.
Here are my current line of questions...
Can I move this thread to multi-way forums and how to do it...
I am not understanding how to set crossover points to build a crossover.
Octaves is something else that I am not able to put into perspective.
As far as how big the box has to be,I planned on using the speaker box designer on diyaudioandvideo.com.
Thanks Again,
-Gus
Attachments
What we would call large speakers would be the size of a dishwasher or washing machine, maybe as large as a refrigerator!
_-_-bear
I have lots of speakers that big
Greets!
Where’s Cal when you need him?
A complex issue, but a good rule-of-thumb is to have at least an octave of ~flat response on either side of a 2nd order XO, so [2] octaves/1st order, [0.67] octave/3rd order, [0.5] octave/4th order.
Octaves are [n] exponential [2:1] musical pitch frequency progressions, so 100 Hz, 200 Hz, 400 Hz, 800Hz, etc..
n = 10*log10 [Fh/Fl]/3.01
Fh = Fl*2^n
Fl = Fh/2^n
Octave - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
Hmm, the 6” has too high an Fs, Qts to do much in the way of bass, only a booming mid-bass if not in a huge, heavily stuffed sealed cab, like ~348 L to get the Qtc down to near 1.0, otherwise about a ~1.2 Qtc in ~16 L heavily stuffed. Just lightly lined will need around 64 L; though someone more experienced with digitally altering [LRT] sealed alignments might can do better in a same size or smaller cab.
The 4” wide BW drivers can be OB, ~aperiodic TL or sealed, whichever you prefer. The TL can be used to damp the driver’s Fs peak, making it easier to design a passive XO for the handoff to the 6”. Not familiar with the LDC’s XO design section, but you may can even get away with a textbook one that on-line calculators and the formulas in most books I’ve seen generate.
I recommend you instead use WinISD Pro, Unibox or similar freeware.
A challenging project for a newbie, especially if the driver’s responses are as non flat as Freddy posted.
GM
"Hey I have these drivers what cab I build with them" is almost always the wrong approach for a beginner, unless they are fantastic drivers, and these, I'm sad to say, are not. Bose spends all their money on marketing not quality. Better drivers can be had for as little as $5 and building materials are never that cheap. The right way to do it is to say I'm looking for this kind of improvement in sound and this is my budget what do you recomend. When you do that the first thing you'll get is a bunch of people telling you you need 10X that much, ignore them. Listen to the advice you get and go with the designs you like, not the advice of the guy who seems really nice. Most importantly, have fun.
Sorry to break it to you but those six inchers are crap. Throw them away, the ones you get at Wal-Mart for $10 have a fighting chance of being better.
the smaller ones are decent and would work great in a rear loaded or even compound loaded horn, or an open baffel, possibly a transmission line. A sealed enclosure is tantimount to throwing away 2/3s of your drivers potential so unless you neeeed a really small speaker don't even consider them. Unless the full rangers were originally augmented with a tweeter they don't need one. If they are weak on the top end cross the tweeter over as high as possible with a high quality poly cap ($3) anyone who tells you differently is trying to impress you with their math skills.
the smaller ones are decent and would work great in a rear loaded or even compound loaded horn, or an open baffel, possibly a transmission line. A sealed enclosure is tantimount to throwing away 2/3s of your drivers potential so unless you neeeed a really small speaker don't even consider them. Unless the full rangers were originally augmented with a tweeter they don't need one. If they are weak on the top end cross the tweeter over as high as possible with a high quality poly cap ($3) anyone who tells you differently is trying to impress you with their math skills.
I digress, slightly. The 6"ers are pretty low mass so they could sound good as a midrange driver, if you needed one, but you don't. As a subwoofer, or even a woofer they have far too weak a magnet to produce clean bass in anything short of an enormous horn, and that would be far more cost prohibitive than a better woofer.
Brsanko, plan A was to build a folded horn or back horn with the Bose drivers. But from what I have read these drivers would only be good as midrange without eq. So, plan B was start a 3 way speaker, not having a clue what I was doing or knowing about parts express I found some cheap speakers on eBay. That was another mistake. But anyway I have these raw speaker drivers and would like to make something out of them and learn as I go. I am not expecting to make a good pair of speakers the first time around. Espically with what i bought. Knowledge is what I am looking for. For example, you looked at the graphs that I posted and know what is going on with the drivers. I am still trying to figure out the graphs using the cookbook and manual with the speaker tester.
I was very frustrated with the woofers because they were 5ohms, but hey, I can slap some caps on it and lets see what we can make.
I was very frustrated with the woofers because they were 5ohms, but hey, I can slap some caps on it and lets see what we can make.
Actually the small drivers would work great in a rear loaded horn. I'd be happy to design one for you. If you like low bass you're going to need a sub to go with them too. If I knew the xmax of the drivers I could do a lot better job determining the bass limits. Plus it's good to know your size preferences and how good you are at working with wood. If you have a subwoofer there is no reason to make the speakers go below 70-80 hz so a reasonably small size horn could be achieved. People get these "rules of thumb" stuck in their heads and they think they are gospel. In the right enclosure I could make subwoofer out of those speakers but it would be a waste because they have good midrange performance. So you put them in a rear loaded horn designed for them to bring up the bass, if the highs are weak you throw on a cheap tweeter and a small cap and you're good to go. Any driver in the world willgive better bass from a horn than any other type of enclosure. Some really good drivers are almost as good in a BR or TL so people compramise. If a driver won't work well in a bass horn that simply means there is no good way to get quality bass out of it. I'll average the specs on the small drivers and see what I can come up with.
I am okay with woodworking I built this below and still working on the other pieces.
Sounds great about the designing something for the small drivers, maybe down the line i can add a woofer or build something else.
I think the woofer tester can give me the xmax, but I have to read how to get it. Something about scratch and buzz test, I may be wrong. I will let you know if I can one way or another. I'll order some elchepo tweeter later today.
Thanks Again,
-Gus
Sounds great about the designing something for the small drivers, maybe down the line i can add a woofer or build something else.
I think the woofer tester can give me the xmax, but I have to read how to get it. Something about scratch and buzz test, I may be wrong. I will let you know if I can one way or another. I'll order some elchepo tweeter later today.
Thanks Again,
-Gus
Attachments
Sorry to post in an old thread, but it seems like someone here may have the info I need. I have bose 4001s with ported enclosures and two of the 6" 8 ohm woofers in each cabinet. I've already replaced the tweeters with vifa xt25sc90 and now Im looking to get fuller, cleaner bass out of them. I know that the high pass on the midrange woofer is around 1000 hz. Not sure exactly what the low pass on the tweeter is. One woofer is midrange and the other is low pitch, but almost nothing comes out of the woofer that is high passed for the lower frequecies. I cant really see much more of the crossover without taking apart the board. Im thinking that replacing the lowrange woofer will produce more bass, but I dont want to change the ports or crossover. How can I select a lowrange woofer with a 5.5" cutout that wont require midificatiom of the cabinet or crossover?
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