Cerafines gone as well. I guess the market is too small...... I really like Silmics after about 100+ hours all the negatives are pretty much gone and they are for me a significant improvement over ordinary caps in power supplies and signal. Combined with Cerfaines in some parts of the circuit, super and only a few £'s. Panasonic FM,FR and FC are for me are not comparable
Its a good question, I havent done enough A-B, even though I have spent 2 years doing nothing but experimenting with different components in a BR player amongst other things, but silmics for me in the signal were better than a number of Nichicons, I like Muse ES in parts of the power supply, never tried them in the signal. I have also never tried something like the Audio Note Kaisei. Silly money and not as good as Black Gates evidently, also a lot rate Silmics ahead of Black Gates. Adding Cerfaines to Silmics in filtering had some amazing results for me, so this is very disappointing ....
Big Power supply caps are easy, Jensen Electrolytic/Mundorf (but Jensens are no longer made either.....) evidently the Nichcon KG's are very good, but big and quite pricey. Quite a few other interesting caps too, I have always wanted to experiment with Mundorf HC's in sub amplifiers but they are too big to fit in and very pricey
Surely there is a market for a Silmic III ?!
Not sure what some of the alternatives like these are like https://www.hificollective.co.uk/capacitors/toshin-jovial-utsj-electrolytic-capacitors.html
But a description like clean and detailed puts me off (bright and lean I read this as)
Big Power supply caps are easy, Jensen Electrolytic/Mundorf (but Jensens are no longer made either.....) evidently the Nichcon KG's are very good, but big and quite pricey. Quite a few other interesting caps too, I have always wanted to experiment with Mundorf HC's in sub amplifiers but they are too big to fit in and very pricey
Surely there is a market for a Silmic III ?!
Not sure what some of the alternatives like these are like https://www.hificollective.co.uk/capacitors/toshin-jovial-utsj-electrolytic-capacitors.html
But a description like clean and detailed puts me off (bright and lean I read this as)
Good morning, I see that Silmic has been used in hifi gear as my Marantz SA15S1 together with some Cerafine.
Can I bother you all with some questions regard caps? I am building a upgrade PCB for my Hiraga 30W. Its near finish.
Im satisfied with the choice of parts ( some tested before and some new ones ). BUT there is one component that has hold me awake at nights ( not that bad but anyway ). The case is I have picked AN Kaisei and Cerafine for C13 and C14 ( they are staying ). For C16 I have now Panasonic FM, But wonder to use Silmic II, Muse KZ or Nichicon KA instead? What do you think, I know its almost impossible to know just from looking at the PCB but maybe some of you got some information / knowledge / experience to this "problem" ( : Frank
Can I bother you all with some questions regard caps? I am building a upgrade PCB for my Hiraga 30W. Its near finish.
Im satisfied with the choice of parts ( some tested before and some new ones ). BUT there is one component that has hold me awake at nights ( not that bad but anyway ). The case is I have picked AN Kaisei and Cerafine for C13 and C14 ( they are staying ). For C16 I have now Panasonic FM, But wonder to use Silmic II, Muse KZ or Nichicon KA instead? What do you think, I know its almost impossible to know just from looking at the PCB but maybe some of you got some information / knowledge / experience to this "problem" ( : Frank
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@Sagen:
Hi ... IME it is quite difficult to know how a given capacitor will sound in an unfamiliar circuit not least since it seems that many of your components are not "original" L'Audiophile 30W components. So - if it were me - I would try to fit the capacitors you consider to be options and then listen to each of them in the circuit. My guess is that this probably would give you a quite good indication of their individual sound characteristics - and allow you to make a choice based on this.
From my listening tests I would say that the:
Also, I would probably consider a larger value than 68uF ... but your mileage may vary, as one says.
Good luck with finding your capacitor ;-)
Jesper
Hi ... IME it is quite difficult to know how a given capacitor will sound in an unfamiliar circuit not least since it seems that many of your components are not "original" L'Audiophile 30W components. So - if it were me - I would try to fit the capacitors you consider to be options and then listen to each of them in the circuit. My guess is that this probably would give you a quite good indication of their individual sound characteristics - and allow you to make a choice based on this.
From my listening tests I would say that the:
- FMs are quite stringent, a bit sonorous, and not too nuanced WRT tonal reproduction. To my ears (and that is to my ears) they sound a bit "solid".
- The KZs can be very close to dynamically correct in many respects and also tonally more refined than the FMs. Still a slight bit sonorous (but I haven't found an ideal capacitor and the KZs are one of my preferred types),
- To my ears the Silmics are too bright sounding ... your ears may hear it differently, though.
- I am not familiar with the Nichicon KAs.
Also, I would probably consider a larger value than 68uF ... but your mileage may vary, as one says.
Good luck with finding your capacitor ;-)
Jesper
I’d be interested in your findings, I’m not a huge fan of the Panasonics, they are good but sometimes a little too ‘controlled’ and ordinary to my ears - depends on location
I’ve never found Silmics bright they go through a 100 + hour burn in cycle and move from a bit lean to sounding dynamic Rich and full then going a bit soggy and overly heavy then tightening up and resolution and clarity back and better again than the sound at a it 5-10 hours in. 5-10 hours in gives a good guide
Silmics also drop ESR when burnt in
So long as you have something else in the mix, particularly Cerafines I ended up with a lot of Silmics and very few Panasonics. I also like the Muse ES
I’ve never found Silmics bright they go through a 100 + hour burn in cycle and move from a bit lean to sounding dynamic Rich and full then going a bit soggy and overly heavy then tightening up and resolution and clarity back and better again than the sound at a it 5-10 hours in. 5-10 hours in gives a good guide
Silmics also drop ESR when burnt in
So long as you have something else in the mix, particularly Cerafines I ended up with a lot of Silmics and very few Panasonics. I also like the Muse ES
In different circuits and different positions within the circuit, caps will sound different, even if you liked it in the other circuit, you may not in the new one. So it is a difficult question, that i belive noone will be able to answer you 
For that position i would first try UHW1J680MPD, if not available in 63v, go up in voltage rating if it can fit on your pcb.
For that position i would first try UHW1J680MPD, if not available in 63v, go up in voltage rating if it can fit on your pcb.
Its the Nichicon FW/M ( 47uF 50V ) that comes with the kit.In different circuits and different positions within the circuit, caps will sound different, even if you liked it in the other circuit, you may not in the new one. So it is a difficult question, that i belive noone will be able to answer you
@Sagen:
As you may know/remember both the L'Audiophile Le Monstre & 30w Class A had huge electrolytic reservoirs and no active voltage regulation. Thus - again if it were me - I would use an extensive electrolytic reservoir bank but I do not know if this is possible with the regulator you use. Anyway, those are my two cents (my thinking) about this ...
Cheers, Jesper
As you may know/remember both the L'Audiophile Le Monstre & 30w Class A had huge electrolytic reservoirs and no active voltage regulation. Thus - again if it were me - I would use an extensive electrolytic reservoir bank but I do not know if this is possible with the regulator you use. Anyway, those are my two cents (my thinking) about this ...
Cheers, Jesper
Yes, go with the one i suggested you for starters. Position wise, it should perform better. Silmics aren't the smartest choice for it
As i said, how you will percieve sound is up to you, and we can't exactly tell you for that matter. It is a cheap trial, so you should give it a go with several to your preferences
Nice, full of Silmic. Yes I have moore space. If you see closer I also have gone straight from dac chip to coupling caps/rca.
Thats right, it have big PS. 1.2F ( 1 200 000uF ) pr canal if I remember right. I have only 400 000uF pr canal on my Hiraga.
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In the analogue out I went through a number of alternatives and ended up with a blend including Cerafines, in combination I found 2-4/1 Silmic to Cerafines added more dynamics and drive but retaining the organic, body, weight and tonality of the Silmic as well as a little more clarity. Too much Cerafine a little forward but liked the balls and drive, too little and a little too soft and rounded. Did you bypass Opamps and analogue out section then ?
IWC Doppel : Sounds good, I love the Cerafine, it give that extra kick. The mix I have AN- natural, Cerafine- extra sharp kick, keep you on the toes without been fatige, FM- they say can sound hard but natural. Maybe mix the Silmic in there, see what I do. I bypass the hole last filter board, snipped connect between main / filter board. Did this with help / email from Lampizator. I also have externe clock w / powersupply. It sound realy nice. I was looking inside player now, could not see any opamps . .? If you mean the 8 legs component.
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Ah yes I thought I saw some SMD op amps. My mistake. Another mod I really like is bypassing or well running in parallel with larger PS smoothing caps a 1% value similar cap I add 100uf high voltage Silmic to my Mundorf and Jensen made a great difference to dynamics without being too forward.