They are really expensive and I assume the change was not huge.
But of course, as a curiosity, if you heard a difference compared to the original back then, what did it manifest itself in? (In addition to the fact that I know that we really get the essential difference with the Lundahl opt, and I think Ferenc's upgrade is also brilliant)
But of course, as a curiosity, if you heard a difference compared to the original back then, what did it manifest itself in? (In addition to the fact that I know that we really get the essential difference with the Lundahl opt, and I think Ferenc's upgrade is also brilliant)
Just finished my 8200R kit today. It was like a divine sign. USPS delivered my capacitors I was waiting on 5 minutes before my lunch break. Fired up first time, absolutely no build issues. Letting it run in now with some Larry Carlton on the high-end amp stand. Lol. It already sounds fantastic. Thanks, Victor, for getting the Lundahls out so quick.
Hello Victor,
I know that the TU8200-R is optimized for the 6L6GC tube and all other tubes are "only" alternatives. But do you have any idea that if I am thinking of using 807 tubes permanently (obviously with an adapter), are there any key components, component positions (mainly resistance values in my opinion) that can be used to "optimize" the operation in the direction of the 807?
I know that the TU8200-R is optimized for the 6L6GC tube and all other tubes are "only" alternatives. But do you have any idea that if I am thinking of using 807 tubes permanently (obviously with an adapter), are there any key components, component positions (mainly resistance values in my opinion) that can be used to "optimize" the operation in the direction of the 807?
Thanks Viktor, I know that the 807 is only a secondary option in terms of the original (6L6GC) design of the amplifier. That's why I'm asking those who are much more knowledgeable than me if there is a point in the schematic/design where there is some customization and scope for the 807 pipe.
Really, I'm thinking of something like this, as if the R13-R14 should not be the factory 27K, but let's say (and I tune it, just for the sake of example) 33K.
I suspect that if Mr. Fujita wanted to tailor the amplifier to 807 bases, he would have designed it this way. But if there is already an opportunity to use an 807 tube in it (which is my personal favorite among the tubes that can be used), and if there is potential in this aspect of the design, then maybe someone has an idea.
Really, I'm thinking of something like this, as if the R13-R14 should not be the factory 27K, but let's say (and I tune it, just for the sake of example) 33K.
I suspect that if Mr. Fujita wanted to tailor the amplifier to 807 bases, he would have designed it this way. But if there is already an opportunity to use an 807 tube in it (which is my personal favorite among the tubes that can be used), and if there is potential in this aspect of the design, then maybe someone has an idea.
Hello
I purchased the TU-8200 (not R) in 2016 from the Australian distributor. Built up with no issues at that time.
About 3 years ago I replaced the FETs as there was hum in both channels. The amp was good again for a few years.
Recently I have had the hum re-appear in left channel only. I am thinking I will need to replace FET's (Q3 and Q5?) again, as this seems to be the solution per the troubleshooting guide.
I am wondering why the FET's would blow multiple times in this amp? Is there anything else I should look at replacing or upgrading to avoid re-occurring issues?
I use Gold Lion KT88s and the stock 12AU7.
I have attached a couple of photos in case there is anything obvious to others.
Keeping in mind I am not technical so layman's language please!
Thankyou
Peter
I purchased the TU-8200 (not R) in 2016 from the Australian distributor. Built up with no issues at that time.
About 3 years ago I replaced the FETs as there was hum in both channels. The amp was good again for a few years.
Recently I have had the hum re-appear in left channel only. I am thinking I will need to replace FET's (Q3 and Q5?) again, as this seems to be the solution per the troubleshooting guide.
I am wondering why the FET's would blow multiple times in this amp? Is there anything else I should look at replacing or upgrading to avoid re-occurring issues?
I use Gold Lion KT88s and the stock 12AU7.
I have attached a couple of photos in case there is anything obvious to others.
Keeping in mind I am not technical so layman's language please!
Thankyou
Peter
Attachments
Hi folks! Finally after three months of cutting, drilling, welding, soldering, tweaking I have finished my set including all possible mods and I feel a need to brag 
TU8500 - visual tuning (new stainless front, walnut veneer side panels, LED lights), coupling caps, opamps MUSES01, voltage regulators from Sparkos, RCA 12AU7 black plates inserted
TU8200R - visual tuning like TU8500 and tube cage, coupling caps, full upgrade by paczeltf (great many thanks for help once again), Lundahl onboard, Holy Grail 6L6GC RCA black plates side O getter 1950's and E80CC Philips Miniwatt SQ.
Guys, holy s**t - how it sounds now! The only drawback is the final cost. In Poland Elekit is more expensive than anywhere (bloody taxes) and set costs 1 600 USD. With full upgrade it reaches 2 850 USD
And not only sounds, now it has the look 😁 I am rather miserable photographer, but, well, something is visible at least...
TU8500 - visual tuning (new stainless front, walnut veneer side panels, LED lights), coupling caps, opamps MUSES01, voltage regulators from Sparkos, RCA 12AU7 black plates inserted
TU8200R - visual tuning like TU8500 and tube cage, coupling caps, full upgrade by paczeltf (great many thanks for help once again), Lundahl onboard, Holy Grail 6L6GC RCA black plates side O getter 1950's and E80CC Philips Miniwatt SQ.
Guys, holy s**t - how it sounds now! The only drawback is the final cost. In Poland Elekit is more expensive than anywhere (bloody taxes) and set costs 1 600 USD. With full upgrade it reaches 2 850 USD
And not only sounds, now it has the look 😁 I am rather miserable photographer, but, well, something is visible at least...
Congratulation!
Take my credit! I have already watched the conversion before, read how it was made. It must have been a lot of work, but the customization turned out to be brilliant.
(the VAT and CUSTOM issue is not the most favorable in Hungary either, not only in Poland, but as this little amplifier sounds, the whole thing is simply brilliant)
Take my credit! I have already watched the conversion before, read how it was made. It must have been a lot of work, but the customization turned out to be brilliant.
(the VAT and CUSTOM issue is not the most favorable in Hungary either, not only in Poland, but as this little amplifier sounds, the whole thing is simply brilliant)
@vkung Hi. Its just possible I can afford soon the standard 8200R. Do you ship the kits yourself or only the upgrades etc? How much would a standard kit with standard transformers be shipped to UK? Thanks.
Fully intend to carry out all recommended upgrades at a later stage when funds allow...
Fully intend to carry out all recommended upgrades at a later stage when funds allow...
I'm trying to figure out why C3-C4 are more "important" in terms of sound than the coupling capacitors C9-C10. Based on the schematic, I would say that C9-C10 would be more decisive in terms of "quality", because it is "between" the anode of the drive tube and the grid of the end tube.
Some explanation: according to hificollective, the effect of the C3-C4 position on the sound is "stronger", at least according to the capacitor recommendation.
Some explanation: according to hificollective, the effect of the C3-C4 position on the sound is "stronger", at least according to the capacitor recommendation.
Why not?
Has the model been discontinued, or are you just not going to sell them anymore?
I ask because it's been on my shortlist for a couple of years now, once life gets out of the way so I can actually buy nice things.
--Shannon