ELEKIT TU-8200R

Is there any better pot to upgrade without cutting. Just remove stock and solder better part. I see some TKD pots on forum but again need to cut pcb as i understand.

Lundahl are on their way to me, few days ago i changed from JJ El34 to Tung Sol 6l6 Str sound is much better without lundahl and with lundahls will be much better, so i ask myself is worth of bother with cutting pcb?
 
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Thanks for the answer, but the video I watched had that option. However, even on the lowest setting, the impedance was 250 ohm minimum. Do you know the actual impedances corresponding to the High, Med, Low settings and has it changed over the past couple of years?? Cheers and happy new year
Those jumpers control the output voltage, not that much the impedance. The TU-8200R has a 220 Ohm serial resistor at the headphone output (R43/R44), hence the high output impedance at all settings. It must be there to protect your hearing. You can bypass them for low to medium sensitivity headphones, I did that.
 
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I'm trying to figure out why C3-C4 are more "important" in terms of sound than the coupling capacitors C9-C10. Based on the schematic, I would say that C9-C10 would be more decisive in terms of "quality", because it is "between" the anode of the drive tube and the grid of the end tube.

Some explanation: according to hificollective, the effect of the C3-C4 position on the sound is "stronger", at least according to the capacitor recommendation.

Don't trust those sites that much, they want to sell premium components with high margin. C3, C4, C9, C10 are all coupling capacitors between anodes and grids with the same values and importance.