https://www.jimmyauw.com/2010/04/24/observing-inner-and-outer-foil-of-some-popular-capacitors/
This shows the effect of observing proper orientation. Which way is which depends on the manufacturer and perhaps the specific model of cap but as I say it seems odd that they chose to have the signal going the opposite direction from the writing. I've not seen that before.
Best,
Pete
This shows the effect of observing proper orientation. Which way is which depends on the manufacturer and perhaps the specific model of cap but as I say it seems odd that they chose to have the signal going the opposite direction from the writing. I've not seen that before.
Best,
Pete
@pete- If you look closely in those pics from the link you posted, you will see the Audio Note cap and the Jensen cap are just like mine, with the shield opposite of the writing. Even some of the new Auricap XO's are like this, out of the 8 I bought 2 were opposite of the rest so the writing doesn't mean anything about how the signal should go. Before the Auricaps had Red and Black leads to show which direction was the outer foil, they don't do that anymore and I had to use the scope to see which side had the outer foil with a Scope. The caps will work in both direction but they say it more quiet with signal enter through the end where the outer foil is due to it acting like a shield. Anyways, the Jensen are correct.
I also corrected the two EPCOS caps so I can mount the Transistor now. I just need to install 4 more parts in the pcb's and its all done and I can start to mount it in the Chassis. I will just need to hook up the Input and Output wiring, Wiring between the PS PCB/Transformer/Preamp PCB, Mount RCA's, Mount TKD 50K pot and IEC Filter Module with NTC, mount the Choke, and all is done.
I also corrected the two EPCOS caps so I can mount the Transistor now. I just need to install 4 more parts in the pcb's and its all done and I can start to mount it in the Chassis. I will just need to hook up the Input and Output wiring, Wiring between the PS PCB/Transformer/Preamp PCB, Mount RCA's, Mount TKD 50K pot and IEC Filter Module with NTC, mount the Choke, and all is done.
Going to add a switch to my to my DIY EAR 834P clone all out build. I was thinking of these cap values. I have ordered a nice selector switch for 6 inputs.
50pF
100pF
150pF
200 or 220pF
and 300 or 330pF
Hopefully these will cover most MM cartridges.
The MC cartridges will use a SUT so no need to add resistance loading for MC carts.
Anyone see any value missing that I may need? The first input will be a bypass with no value like the EAR has on their inputs.
50pF
100pF
150pF
200 or 220pF
and 300 or 330pF
Hopefully these will cover most MM cartridges.
The MC cartridges will use a SUT so no need to add resistance loading for MC carts.
Anyone see any value missing that I may need? The first input will be a bypass with no value like the EAR has on their inputs.
Hello
Which selector switch please ?
The idea of a switch is much more interesting to me regarding the Dip switches - personally i would more like to do the switching with a rotary one as permanent solution for my phono.
Yes, bought one for line preamp which was never properly boxed ( even if it sound and works excellent, i just don't need 6dB line gain ).
When You ask i'll tell You what troubles me - it is a two deck design and DMM check says that for each input i have two active pins/ears ( in parallel i guess ).
Also it should be 5 inputs but DMM says that all six are active.
So it is not quite clear to me how do i wire the unit - if i put wires on both contacts ( from connector ) i have double capacitance, however the wire is short.
That is if wired for input selection. So it just sat in a box with other parts along some classic Lorlin which is far more intuitive for wiring ( which i would not use for phono switching duties ).
P.S. I asked originally since i have working phono preamp and a box from old medicine apparatus which i am slowly working on to pack the phono in.
There are 12 pins per deck and each deck has two "C" points. So on each deck and the C point below pin 1 you will have access to all pins up to pin 6 when turning the switch clock wise. The other pins are not connected all to that C point. Now if you turn the switch around and use the C point you will have access to pins 6-12, the other side with 1-6 will not be active and the same when use the C point for pins 1-6. The Same for the second deck.
For me, I'm not worried about pins 6-12 when I'm using inputs 1-6 on both decks. So I was going to just wire up the left and right inputs to each deck connected to the "C" point and the rest (caps) connected from 1-6 and from there connected to the PCB input. Just haven't decide if I'm going to put the caps at the inputs on the switch or make a little pcb with the caps on the board and the wire running from each pin to the caps I want to select for the type of capacitance loading I want for the MM cartridges I use.
For me, I'm not worried about pins 6-12 when I'm using inputs 1-6 on both decks. So I was going to just wire up the left and right inputs to each deck connected to the "C" point and the rest (caps) connected from 1-6 and from there connected to the PCB input. Just haven't decide if I'm going to put the caps at the inputs on the switch or make a little pcb with the caps on the board and the wire running from each pin to the caps I want to select for the type of capacitance loading I want for the MM cartridges I use.
Drummerboy2 thank You very much !
I have looked at the datasheet and measured with DMM but until now i could not guess it works that way.
Thanks & Regards, Krca
@Krca - So try it. Connect one lead of the DMM to the lug under pin 1 and connect the other lead of the DMM to pin 1 terminal. Turn the switch fully CCW, you will see or hear the meter beep for continuity between those two points. Turn the switch CW one step and put the lead on pin 2, you hear the beep or see the meter read 0.00 ohms. So you will have access to all pins up to 6.
I'd love to hear your impressions of the differences between your all-out build and the somewhat more typical version that you have.
Thx,
Pete
@pete- I received my other parts this week and here is a pic of them.
I received the Power switch, the selector switch for the different capacitance with the different cap values, Power supply film caps from Solen, and Knobs I will using on the the front of the chassis. on top of these I have already received the 30uf caps for the main PCB B+ line which are Solen film caps and need be I will use the 0.33uf Auricap OX film caps to by pass.
I already have the Antek power transformer, Choke, and all other upgraded parts for the build which I already built up and ready to install. Next will be the internal wiring and RCA's which I have already as well, Cardas Rhodium RCA's and Furutech Rhodium IEC plug.
I'm seriously thinking of adding a timing circuit for power ON. The switch I got is capable of turning on the the heaters first and then the B+ .
here a pic of the parts.
I will post more when I get the chassis up and built.
I received the Power switch, the selector switch for the different capacitance with the different cap values, Power supply film caps from Solen, and Knobs I will using on the the front of the chassis. on top of these I have already received the 30uf caps for the main PCB B+ line which are Solen film caps and need be I will use the 0.33uf Auricap OX film caps to by pass.
I already have the Antek power transformer, Choke, and all other upgraded parts for the build which I already built up and ready to install. Next will be the internal wiring and RCA's which I have already as well, Cardas Rhodium RCA's and Furutech Rhodium IEC plug.
I'm seriously thinking of adding a timing circuit for power ON. The switch I got is capable of turning on the the heaters first and then the B+ .
here a pic of the parts.
I will post more when I get the chassis up and built.
@ Pete- I will post back my results once I'm done with this All Out Build. I recently returned back to work and have had little time if any to do the new build. I did finish the MAIN Preamp and Power Supply build before I went back to work so the main build time consuming part is all done, so they are ready to install.
Now that we have the Day Light savings going on I have more day light to work with out back on this. I will try to post pics of the project as it goes along.
Now that we have the Day Light savings going on I have more day light to work with out back on this. I will try to post pics of the project as it goes along.
Take maximum care on Jensen copper foil.
This type, with the Silver, have ha leak after some time
Walter
Thank You for the heads up, I actually experience this with some of the caps before. These have the better end caps that the rubberish type and measure good for value and leakage.
I have Jensen's in my VTA build from back in 2015 no leakage so far, I keep an eye out for that. I do Duelund Alexanders caps I can put in as well but they will be off PCB mount.