Hi Garethllywelyn,
You are so mistaken, I guess you have not read previous posts.
I have been in audio service in excess of 45 years, and preamplifiers of many different designs can and do output DC at times, so do CD players and cassette decks, tuners and DACs. Phono cartridges are the only device that does not output DC aside from transformer coupled devices. I have seen blown amplifiers and speakers due to this issue before, and had to assess insurance claims where speakers actually did burn, flames and everything. I don't think you have any experience at all.
Bypassing a coupling cap with any other smaller cap accomplishes nothing - zero. Tests prove this beyond any doubt, so once again I think you are just repeating stuff you read elsewhere. Myself and many others have tested this with our own (very expensive high quality) test equipment. Even if you go at this from a math perspective, the results match.
It is completely irresponsible to suggest to anyone that you omit the input coupling capacitor. By allowing a variable resistance to be "seen" by the input pair, you can also shift the DC offset value depending on bias currents and the input resistance. This can make connections and RCA cables noisy too. People who recommend shorting an input capacitor have no understanding of how the electrical input circuit actually works, coupled with some belief that electronic components never fail.
-Chris
You are so mistaken, I guess you have not read previous posts.
I have been in audio service in excess of 45 years, and preamplifiers of many different designs can and do output DC at times, so do CD players and cassette decks, tuners and DACs. Phono cartridges are the only device that does not output DC aside from transformer coupled devices. I have seen blown amplifiers and speakers due to this issue before, and had to assess insurance claims where speakers actually did burn, flames and everything. I don't think you have any experience at all.
Bypassing a coupling cap with any other smaller cap accomplishes nothing - zero. Tests prove this beyond any doubt, so once again I think you are just repeating stuff you read elsewhere. Myself and many others have tested this with our own (very expensive high quality) test equipment. Even if you go at this from a math perspective, the results match.
It is completely irresponsible to suggest to anyone that you omit the input coupling capacitor. By allowing a variable resistance to be "seen" by the input pair, you can also shift the DC offset value depending on bias currents and the input resistance. This can make connections and RCA cables noisy too. People who recommend shorting an input capacitor have no understanding of how the electrical input circuit actually works, coupled with some belief that electronic components never fail.
-Chris
PCB
After corresponding with Variac on the present layout of the DIY case they will offer and the diyAudio heatsinks drilling pattern, I have ported the well known TMC LIN amp to a 75mm X 250mm PCB (below 1).
Some doubt the level of fidelity a circuit such as this can reproduce , but I aim to show them that simplicity can be good.
The design goals ( correct me if I'm wrong) are :
- 150W/8R - 250+W/4R , 3 pair easily obtained BJT output devices run in a Self EF2 configuration. (to-3p or to- 247)
- "All in one" construction - A pair of Apex Jr. 8200uf's , or just about any 10mm or 22mm 4 pin snap-in capacitor can be mounted on the main board. I looked up the panasonic line of 35mm caps and one could even grace this amp with 22,000uf X 2 @ 63V.
- To avoid some of the layout "issues" in common with some DIYA amps. Grounding will be fully starred with voltage stage/input stage "lifted" and brought to the star at center point. I could also implement separate or "boosted" supply points which could be used if desired. Output feedback take off point and speaker tap are also "dead center". All semi's will be thermally coupled for almost "military" reliability.
- Compensation and other aspects of the basic design will be user defined (miller - tmc - 2 pole) , I have tried all 3 with success. The basic design is quite documented already in both D. Self and B. Cordell's books. My oldest DIY amp is similar and has been used for 2 1/2 years.
-Cost , this would be up to DIYA - There are no "exotic parts" , all are readily sourced. Even as this is so , the amp generally will have -110db noise , 1-2mv offset , and near PPM distortions with 80V/us slew.
Any comments or suggestions , the base circuit is (below 2). Any valid idea's on either the circuit or layout welcome. I am at the voltage stage / input stage layout now - I think the output stage will be free from any errata - I've used this "style" before.
PS - the board will be double sided with the option of a single sided full DIY etch (no jumpers).
OS
please note that the latest BOM and schematic can be found at the diyAudio store here diyab-honey-badger-class-ab-power-amp-pair.html
Hi Mr. Ostripper Ive used a honey badger amp to remod a denon poa 2200 amp with great success. I'm attempting to build an amp from scratch using more honey badger boards. My question is can I use a antek 8445 800va 45v trans with a douk 8*10000uf 80v in my build for power supply. I've test the the setup and get 63v rail volts. Thanks in advanceYou "hit the nail on the head". I hate the standard EF3 , harder to thermally and electrically stabilize with modern High Ft semi's.The Cordell DBT triple is quite superior , but too complicated. The EF2 can be good if the VAS Ic is high and the driver/output beta's are high. 3 OP pairs also work very well with an EF2.
The "tradeoffs" here are:
-Larger onboard capacitance vs. design sophistication.
-Project had to be ported to an existing Class A chassis with preset parameters.
-A real world assessment of what projects members are actually building , and what skill level these projects are at.
-Just how "bulletproof" to make the project. I really feel the protection should be offboard , PIC or ta7317 based - with PMA's HEXFET ultrafast SS relay. Onboard VI sucks , except for a "road amp" , relays don't always work - unless you get the 100A/ 20$ platinum edition.
The Leach amp was good for first time constructors as it used slow devices .My present triple would not tolerate the stray inductances (wires) that you see on the typical leach build. I do know how to mitigate this , but with extra local bypass circuitry , L/R coupling. In my opinion , the leach is too hard for the first time constructor. For every leach build , 10 buy an ebay kit and 10 build a DX.
After I perfect the luxman/DBT (finish any R/D , give it the torture test) , it might be "round 2" as a boardstore kit.
OS
⁸
Gotta get someone to build wolverine with top knotch parts and send to Amair ??? For testing... audio science review
Is Amair interested in reviewing the Wolverine? If he is, I'm sure we can arrange a build to be sent to him.
I'll approach some of the builders and see if anyone is interested.
Morning everyone got a newb question I guess, I'm building another badger for my back deck and have these two caps on hand, wondering what one would be best to use for C3,10,12,14 and 16
,I know the vishay versions with the HQ on the end are highly recomended for audio amp builds but I have the F1735 thanks in advance you people rock!
https://www.digikey.ca/en/products/detail/kemet/R75GF310050H3J/12144337
https://www.digikey.ca/catalog/en/partgroup/mkp1839-series/57244
,I know the vishay versions with the HQ on the end are highly recomended for audio amp builds but I have the F1735 thanks in advance you people rock!
https://www.digikey.ca/en/products/detail/kemet/R75GF310050H3J/12144337
https://www.digikey.ca/catalog/en/partgroup/mkp1839-series/57244
I see no reason no to use these.
https://www.digikey.ca/en/products/detail/kemet/R75GF310050H3J/12144337
Specs look very similar. But I think the axial ones would be a pain to fit.
Polypropylene (PP), Metallized is the best choice
The wolverine is the next design iteration followed on from the honey badger. That's why it was called "The Wolverine son of badger."Why don't you show your videos in the related thread? Honeybadger isn't Wolverine
Best regards!
Why not post here. Imagine you are a new member and want to build a amplifier. You come across the honey badger and think I'll build this. While there is nothing wrong with building the honey badger, its a great amplifier. I'd know that if I was the new member and still finding my footing in the forum. I'd like to be aware of my options and were the development of performance enhancements is being evaluated.
