Nanook is not my products... site is .Lt means Lithuania not italia
I buy only ....diy of course!!!!
Last edited:
Hi Guys,
I'm in the last phase of preparing my trip to the RMAF, so I have little time for an indepth reply.
But, yes I've done lots of experiments with all types of materials, not just to determine their usability/character for tonearm wands. The test setup wasn't the same as the one shown on the Reed page, but kinda similar.
Their test results will look rather different once the woods picked for this test underwent any treatment, be it oiling, laquering a combination of both and/or subsequent ovenbaking, etc.
The short of it is that very oily woods, such as Cocobolo or some types of ebony will retain the shown character pretty much regardless of what you do to them. Many other woods or combination of woods(mulitilayer designs) can be "tuned", as long as they lend themselves to impregnation with oils, resin, etc....
My preference is for woods like Black Palm(super hard, long fibres embedded in a natural "foam") or slow growth, thinly layered woods like Katalox(to name just two). Stiff, fast sound propagation, yet high internal damping....with treatment!
Using a foam of sorts is fine, but I would recommend a construction like a surfboard, high tensile strength fibre over foam. Not easy to actually build a "heavy"(>14gr.eff. mass)armwand with this approach.
Glass is terrible(even when filled with damping material like foam or Balsa) unless you have someone who can blow a tube with varying wall thickness and diameter. But remember, hard doesn't equal non-resonant, nor does it matter that much in a unipivot(or sort of) arm.
Sorry, gotta catch some zzzs
Any of you heading for Denver?
See you there!
Frank
I'm in the last phase of preparing my trip to the RMAF, so I have little time for an indepth reply.
But, yes I've done lots of experiments with all types of materials, not just to determine their usability/character for tonearm wands. The test setup wasn't the same as the one shown on the Reed page, but kinda similar.
Their test results will look rather different once the woods picked for this test underwent any treatment, be it oiling, laquering a combination of both and/or subsequent ovenbaking, etc.
The short of it is that very oily woods, such as Cocobolo or some types of ebony will retain the shown character pretty much regardless of what you do to them. Many other woods or combination of woods(mulitilayer designs) can be "tuned", as long as they lend themselves to impregnation with oils, resin, etc....
My preference is for woods like Black Palm(super hard, long fibres embedded in a natural "foam") or slow growth, thinly layered woods like Katalox(to name just two). Stiff, fast sound propagation, yet high internal damping....with treatment!
Using a foam of sorts is fine, but I would recommend a construction like a surfboard, high tensile strength fibre over foam. Not easy to actually build a "heavy"(>14gr.eff. mass)armwand with this approach.
Glass is terrible(even when filled with damping material like foam or Balsa) unless you have someone who can blow a tube with varying wall thickness and diameter. But remember, hard doesn't equal non-resonant, nor does it matter that much in a unipivot(or sort of) arm.
Sorry, gotta catch some zzzs
Any of you heading for Denver?
See you there!
Frank
I'm about to start my own DIY Schroeder tonearm and turntable build! I've read through this thread and it has been incredibly helpful. Thanks so much to all of you guys (Frank included) for compiling so much great info.
Since I'm going to be buying materials on Friday, I have a quick question. Is there any reason why the lower magnet holder couldn't be made of copper? I've read that some people put a potted magnet in there anyway, so is the material of the holder itself really critical?
Since I'm going to be buying materials on Friday, I have a quick question. Is there any reason why the lower magnet holder couldn't be made of copper? I've read that some people put a potted magnet in there anyway, so is the material of the holder itself really critical?
Just a guess, but I think the reason most choose to use aluminum is ; It's cheaper than copper. There is also the very real possibility that copper will effect the magnetic fields in an unpredictable and unwanted way. I'd stick with Aluminum or even wood.
Here's a cool video of copper and magnets.
8.02T >
And another,
YouTube - Eddy Current Tubes
Lenz' law of eddy currents.
Although I don't know if this applies to a non-moving magnet? Probably to some extent.
Ron
Here's a cool video of copper and magnets.
8.02T >
And another,
YouTube - Eddy Current Tubes
Lenz' law of eddy currents.
Although I don't know if this applies to a non-moving magnet? Probably to some extent.
Ron
I like the way you think! Its one of the simpler pieces to experiment with materials on. The videos with the magnets and copper posted above were amazing. I'd never heard of that happening. What that would do with a static magnet in this application is beyond me.
?? HI Sean, we know ....
Any one know if bronze is good for tonearm ?
for speaker ..... PHY-HP (Haut parleurs)® - KM 30
I bought the raw materials today to make my Schroeder clone. The copper, although still expensive, was priced pretty well and I got everything for $65 tax included. That's with a copper counterweight, copper anti-skate knob, and copper vertical posts (the ones that give the arm its height). Not bad I'd say. If you were to make one of these mostly out of aluminum it would be cheeeaaapp.
