Hi,
Just about finished, very pleased. Total weight 365grams, suspension balances nicely on the little Thorens TD150.
Not sure what the sonic effects of Delrin will be, but will find out within the next couple of days when the tonearm wire arrives.
Just about finished, very pleased. Total weight 365grams, suspension balances nicely on the little Thorens TD150.
Not sure what the sonic effects of Delrin will be, but will find out within the next couple of days when the tonearm wire arrives.
Attachments
Beautiful.
Think I'm inspired now to do a light weight version for my old TD160 and replace the SME Series II improved that's on there now.
JD
Think I'm inspired now to do a light weight version for my old TD160 and replace the SME Series II improved that's on there now.
JD
Very nice integrated arm rest.
JD
JD
I have news, but for now is " Top secret "
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Regards zeoN_Rider
Jeff, I am too busy with my work and hence I am not able to start my DIY tasks. But, I am following the thread development and will be available once I am having enough time.
Thanks,
Bins.
Hello Ron,
The denon DL110, works very well with this tonearm, both seem to compliment the Td150, sound is very airy and open with good spacial quality, and firm authoritve bass, though not as deep as my PTP Lenco.
I guess the effective mass is around the 16 gram mark. I will try get a couple of photos posted soon.
I am toying with a 12inch version for use on another Lenco project i am working on though i am undecided on what tonearm wand shape to use.
This flat tapered section armwand is earier to make, especialy the upper magnet carrier counterweight section, which i found difficult though not impossible to get perfectly true with a round section wand. And maybe the tapered section is less prone to resonate than round, i dont know but sound quality is very good indeed.
Cheers
The denon DL110, works very well with this tonearm, both seem to compliment the Td150, sound is very airy and open with good spacial quality, and firm authoritve bass, though not as deep as my PTP Lenco.
I guess the effective mass is around the 16 gram mark. I will try get a couple of photos posted soon.
I am toying with a 12inch version for use on another Lenco project i am working on though i am undecided on what tonearm wand shape to use.
This flat tapered section armwand is earier to make, especialy the upper magnet carrier counterweight section, which i found difficult though not impossible to get perfectly true with a round section wand. And maybe the tapered section is less prone to resonate than round, i dont know but sound quality is very good indeed.
Cheers
My diy Schröder is slowly progressing. I have now almost finished the arm base, one thing missing is the thread to hang the arm from, and a way to attach the thread to the arm wand.
When I was working with the hole through the arm wand I had an accident with the wood splitting up. Therefore I had to split the arm in two halves, and glue them together after making grooves inside the two parts.
When I was working with the hole through the arm wand I had an accident with the wood splitting up. Therefore I had to split the arm in two halves, and glue them together after making grooves inside the two parts.
Attachments
trondkj, great stuff!
Looks very good. In the future if you have a problem with a hole beginning to "split" in almost all materials, use a jewels's bit or very small bit and a Dremel (or similar). Drill a hole near the edge of the spilt (carefully). The hole then will cause a split to the two drilled holes and stop. Once done you can fill the split with whatever adhesive you choose. Worked for WWII battleships and destroyers, should work for a tonearm.
I haven't looked at the diy Schroeder arm thread much, but a possible solution for attaching the string or filament... Use a bicycle cable stop. Drill through the arm, to an appropriate size from the underside. Glue the cable stop in to the "through hole"if a smaller hole is required, get a very fine washer or shim stock, and drill a tiny hole (with a jeweller's drill bit again...).
Looks very good. In the future if you have a problem with a hole beginning to "split" in almost all materials, use a jewels's bit or very small bit and a Dremel (or similar). Drill a hole near the edge of the spilt (carefully). The hole then will cause a split to the two drilled holes and stop. Once done you can fill the split with whatever adhesive you choose. Worked for WWII battleships and destroyers, should work for a tonearm.
I haven't looked at the diy Schroeder arm thread much, but a possible solution for attaching the string or filament... Use a bicycle cable stop. Drill through the arm, to an appropriate size from the underside. Glue the cable stop in to the "through hole"if a smaller hole is required, get a very fine washer or shim stock, and drill a tiny hole (with a jeweller's drill bit again...).
Nice work, Trondkj.
Agree with Nanook's suggestions. However, where possible - purchase your drillbits and broaches, pin chucks and other fine, handworking tools from engineering supply stores. I have a background in watch importing and often purchased tools from watchmaking supply firms. I found however, that tools bought from professional engineering supply firms have much better quality and are often cheaper.
Good luck with the work. Looking good.
bulgin
Agree with Nanook's suggestions. However, where possible - purchase your drillbits and broaches, pin chucks and other fine, handworking tools from engineering supply stores. I have a background in watch importing and often purchased tools from watchmaking supply firms. I found however, that tools bought from professional engineering supply firms have much better quality and are often cheaper.
Good luck with the work. Looking good.
bulgin