Those are the angles I got from Olegs site. -3.2 and 31 degrees are the angles of the prisms relative to the projector (I think).
I haven't worked on the project for months, my projector has been for repair for two months so I lost interest. Don't have the time to work on it at the moment.
It's possible to make an expand-lens by flipping it around and rotating it 90 degrees, like Phil said.
Tor Arne
I haven't worked on the project for months, my projector has been for repair for two months so I lost interest. Don't have the time to work on it at the moment.
It's possible to make an expand-lens by flipping it around and rotating it 90 degrees, like Phil said.
Tor Arne
I'm in!
Thanks to Tor who led me here, and all like hoxford and Tor who've I've emaild recently and have been very helpful. It's nice to see there's actually a forum where avscience can be discussed vs. a "pseudo avscience forum" where certain subject matter must be restricted. That's really crazy.
I am going to begin my lens project this week. I will be using mineral oil, and will let everyone know how well it works.
Someone posted above a good suplier of museum glass. I'm basically finding around $40 per 4x4" piece or 5x5" piece. Are there better prices?
From what I understand there is even a better glass to use called "Denglass" (I've been calling all of the glass suppliers in portland and getting some good info).
I also don't know how important it really is to get "museum" or "optical glass" at all.... because, Tor told me himself, when he puts the lens in front of the projector, the brightness doesn't seem to be impacted much. The focus only seems to be affected when he uses the bent lexan. So, ... where's the sacrifice using regular glass?
I am leaning towards just using normal window glass. At least for the prototype, and then, if it works well enough, just use it rather than move onto something more expensive. I will be using black flat black plastic for the other three sides. I'll post some plans soon.
Hopefully this thread will not die.. are there any other threads in this web page about this subject or is the "only" one.
Thanks to Tor who led me here, and all like hoxford and Tor who've I've emaild recently and have been very helpful. It's nice to see there's actually a forum where avscience can be discussed vs. a "pseudo avscience forum" where certain subject matter must be restricted. That's really crazy.
I am going to begin my lens project this week. I will be using mineral oil, and will let everyone know how well it works.
Someone posted above a good suplier of museum glass. I'm basically finding around $40 per 4x4" piece or 5x5" piece. Are there better prices?
From what I understand there is even a better glass to use called "Denglass" (I've been calling all of the glass suppliers in portland and getting some good info).
I also don't know how important it really is to get "museum" or "optical glass" at all.... because, Tor told me himself, when he puts the lens in front of the projector, the brightness doesn't seem to be impacted much. The focus only seems to be affected when he uses the bent lexan. So, ... where's the sacrifice using regular glass?
I am leaning towards just using normal window glass. At least for the prototype, and then, if it works well enough, just use it rather than move onto something more expensive. I will be using black flat black plastic for the other three sides. I'll post some plans soon.
Hopefully this thread will not die.. are there any other threads in this web page about this subject or is the "only" one.
status
Just a note to update my project-- I finished last night and although I got the squeeze to work, my image was slightly blurred.. I think it's because I chose to use plastic (lexan) for the four sides of the prisms that the image passes through, and I bet my angles are just a wee bit off. I'll be working on a glass version this weekend. I learned a lot of great stuff and have a better model in mind and easier sealing techniques. I'll post more later.
I did use mineral oil, a big bottle cost $5 at walgreens. I think it's going to work fine. I know that's what's in the commercial version of this lens (and we all know what word that is), so I think it's the right choice, as you can use silicon or hot glue to seal the joints, rather than having to trouble with epoxy for one.
Just a note to update my project-- I finished last night and although I got the squeeze to work, my image was slightly blurred.. I think it's because I chose to use plastic (lexan) for the four sides of the prisms that the image passes through, and I bet my angles are just a wee bit off. I'll be working on a glass version this weekend. I learned a lot of great stuff and have a better model in mind and easier sealing techniques. I'll post more later.
I did use mineral oil, a big bottle cost $5 at walgreens. I think it's going to work fine. I know that's what's in the commercial version of this lens (and we all know what word that is), so I think it's the right choice, as you can use silicon or hot glue to seal the joints, rather than having to trouble with epoxy for one.
My family is going out of town for a week on Saturday, so I'd like to get started on a prototype this weekend. But I've never tried to do anything like this before, so I need some very basic directions to get started.
I've read through Tor's website on how to build one many times, but since I don't have his equipment or expertise in shaping aluminum, I need some other way to create the frame. Does anyone have any suggestions?
I noticed that many people are using Lexan for the sides and sometimes the whole prism. Where did you get it? Is it easy to work with? Do I need any special tools?
JudeBarnes, could you post some pictures of your Prototype lens?
Any kind of help will be very appreciated,
thanks in advance,
Tony
I've read through Tor's website on how to build one many times, but since I don't have his equipment or expertise in shaping aluminum, I need some other way to create the frame. Does anyone have any suggestions?
I noticed that many people are using Lexan for the sides and sometimes the whole prism. Where did you get it? Is it easy to work with? Do I need any special tools?
JudeBarnes, could you post some pictures of your Prototype lens?
Any kind of help will be very appreciated,
thanks in advance,
Tony
I'll try to take some pictures of it this morning. It looks pretty messy but I wanted to just get something done, liek Tor did, "to prove to myself that it can be done". But also get some good techniques down for the better one I intend to make.
As for plastic/lexan, just call your local plastic shop, portland oregon has a good one where I can just go down there and fish through a scrap pile. The clear plastics they have there are so clear you can't tell the difference between it and glass.
I know Tor had special access to very high quality stuff they use on helicopter windshields.
As for plastic/lexan, just call your local plastic shop, portland oregon has a good one where I can just go down there and fish through a scrap pile. The clear plastics they have there are so clear you can't tell the difference between it and glass.
I know Tor had special access to very high quality stuff they use on helicopter windshields.
So far, I've been unable to find the time to get started on this. But rest assured, I am anxiously waiting for someone to figure out a way to build a lens of decent quality using stuff that anyone can buy at their local home depot.
JudeBarnes, please post screen shots of your prototype lens and new found technique. I'm learning a whole lot from other's experiences.
Whether I ever end up building a working anamorphic lens or not, thanks to everyone who has contributed to this project.
Tony
JudeBarnes, please post screen shots of your prototype lens and new found technique. I'm learning a whole lot from other's experiences.
Whether I ever end up building a working anamorphic lens or not, thanks to everyone who has contributed to this project.
Tony
just an update....cutting glass is incredibly simple...
the trickiest part of this whole process (in my opinion) -- whether you use lexan/plastic or glass -- is keeping the front and back edges of the prism at the correct angles during the entire building process. The angles are key! I think that's what caused mine and another person's focus to be out of whack.
the trickiest part of this whole process (in my opinion) -- whether you use lexan/plastic or glass -- is keeping the front and back edges of the prism at the correct angles during the entire building process. The angles are key! I think that's what caused mine and another person's focus to be out of whack.
For those interested, I did use the PVC tubing for the frame for the prisms and it did work very well.
I will try to post some pictures but no guarantees. Basically I bought a 4" x 4" square PVC fence post and had the home improvement store cut it at the right angles to make a frame. Then I only had to glue the two acrylic "faces" on the frame. Much easier than the multiple pieces required otherwise.
I will try to post some pictures but no guarantees. Basically I bought a 4" x 4" square PVC fence post and had the home improvement store cut it at the right angles to make a frame. Then I only had to glue the two acrylic "faces" on the frame. Much easier than the multiple pieces required otherwise.
rwhitley, did you actually fill the prisms yet with water & oil? post some pictures! And some screen shots of your final projector image?
I've moved away from an acryllic model back to the basics-- all glass.
Great idea having them cut your PVC at the appropriate angles. That saves a bunch of work. Thats kinda what I did -- I had a woodworking friend cut me two wedges of wood at the correct angles from which I could use as a template to glue my glass/acryllic.
I've moved away from an acryllic model back to the basics-- all glass.
Great idea having them cut your PVC at the appropriate angles. That saves a bunch of work. Thats kinda what I did -- I had a woodworking friend cut me two wedges of wood at the correct angles from which I could use as a template to glue my glass/acryllic.
gone for the weekend so I can't post pictures yet.
I did fill the prisms, they both worked. I still need to build a mount to hold them at the correct angles to the projector and each other.
I will try to post the pictures next week.
Yes, getting them cut at the store (I also had them cut the acylic faces) makes the whole thing pretty quick.
Rick
I did fill the prisms, they both worked. I still need to build a mount to hold them at the correct angles to the projector and each other.
I will try to post the pictures next week.
Yes, getting them cut at the store (I also had them cut the acylic faces) makes the whole thing pretty quick.
Rick
I'm very curious what this "PVC tubing" you're talking about actually is and looks like. All I can picture in my head is pvc pipe, the white kind they use for sprinkler systems?
Any thoughts on the effect on your image? Any barrel-distortion, focus issues, or, pincushion?
I should have my second protoype done tonight, haven't had as much time as I'd of liked. I'm really interested in hearing about your model rwhitley, I like to contemplate any ideas that make the process the easiest and cheapest possible.
Any thoughts on the effect on your image? Any barrel-distortion, focus issues, or, pincushion?
I should have my second protoype done tonight, haven't had as much time as I'd of liked. I'm really interested in hearing about your model rwhitley, I like to contemplate any ideas that make the process the easiest and cheapest possible.
Well, I'm going to try and make one of these anamorphic lens assemblies. I finally received my projector so now I have something to test it with. I will start with mineral oil, distilled water and cheap window glass to get my technique down. I'll see where it leads me.
Thanks to all the pioneers who went before me.
Thanks to all the pioneers who went before me.
What projectors are you using?
Just curious about what brand of projectors you are using for these lenses. More importantly, what is the throw distance and image offset on them, and have these factors caused any problems with the lens design?
I'm using a DLS8 and I've heard that the short throw and 10 degree image offset can cause problems with anamorphic lenses.
Thanks,
Tony
Just curious about what brand of projectors you are using for these lenses. More importantly, what is the throw distance and image offset on them, and have these factors caused any problems with the lens design?
I'm using a DLS8 and I've heard that the short throw and 10 degree image offset can cause problems with anamorphic lenses.
Thanks,
Tony
I'm using a panasonic 75u, xga projector. I had heard something about the lense not working well with certain projectors, but I don't quite understand why. I would think that you could adjust the lense to compensate somehow. I have seen the commercial version of the lens in action with mine and am sold.
Got my 2nd prototype all sealed will test it later tonight!
Got my 2nd prototype all sealed will test it later tonight!
The reason short-throw projectors don't work well with anamorphic lenses is because the barel-distortion becomes worse I think. I moved my projector further away from the screen so that I could zoom it in completely and get as long throw as possible.
This lens offsets the picture vertically by a few inches. The lens can be used right-side-up or upside-down but it looks better in one of the orientations. I think the picture is offset downwards when the projector is ceilingmounted. I don't remember for sure, it's been so long since I tried it.
There are four housings (see attached picture) and ten different prisms on my shelf right now. The ones glued with silicone sealant have not leaked yet but the ones glued with epoxy leaked a lot.
I'm having a lot of problems with my projector, I got a replacement from Hitachi but it has a convergence-fault so I won't continue with the lens-project yet. I'm just checking in to see what progress has been made.
Tor Arne
This lens offsets the picture vertically by a few inches. The lens can be used right-side-up or upside-down but it looks better in one of the orientations. I think the picture is offset downwards when the projector is ceilingmounted. I don't remember for sure, it's been so long since I tried it.
There are four housings (see attached picture) and ten different prisms on my shelf right now. The ones glued with silicone sealant have not leaked yet but the ones glued with epoxy leaked a lot.
I'm having a lot of problems with my projector, I got a replacement from Hitachi but it has a convergence-fault so I won't continue with the lens-project yet. I'm just checking in to see what progress has been made.
Tor Arne
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