Hey swoop,
I was intrigued by the dipole thing, so I took apart an old pair of Cerwin Vega!s, then stuck the mid driver into a flat board, pictured below.
Now, this is my "play" area, not for serious listening, but the sound is waaaaaay better than I expected. There's no response below 120 Hz or so with these, but that's about right.
It's good enough to make me want to build a "real" dipole design.
Dave
I was intrigued by the dipole thing, so I took apart an old pair of Cerwin Vega!s, then stuck the mid driver into a flat board, pictured below.
Now, this is my "play" area, not for serious listening, but the sound is waaaaaay better than I expected. There's no response below 120 Hz or so with these, but that's about right.
It's good enough to make me want to build a "real" dipole design.
Dave
Attachments
I wonder if any of these specs are help full from the polks.
Cabinet size 15" H x 13-1/4" W x 10" D
Crossover :
Driver 1: LPF at 200Hz, 12dB/oct.
Driver 2: LPF at 2.4kHz, 12dB/oct.
Tweeters: HPF at 2.4kHz, 18 dB/oct.
Not sure what this mean i understand the rear ports but....
Vented via dual rear-mounted Power Ports and dual front-mounted ARC ports
All my speakers currently are 8ohms guess, like you said mark, would dictate going with 16 ohm drivers to keep them in 8 ohm parallel? no other option i take it...
I still like the switch idea also gadets are fun.
Cabinet size 15" H x 13-1/4" W x 10" D
Crossover :
Driver 1: LPF at 200Hz, 12dB/oct.
Driver 2: LPF at 2.4kHz, 12dB/oct.
Tweeters: HPF at 2.4kHz, 18 dB/oct.
Not sure what this mean i understand the rear ports but....
Vented via dual rear-mounted Power Ports and dual front-mounted ARC ports
All my speakers currently are 8ohms guess, like you said mark, would dictate going with 16 ohm drivers to keep them in 8 ohm parallel? no other option i take it...
I still like the switch idea also gadets are fun.
Hi Swoop,
I'm actually going to build a gigante version with the leftover woofers. I want to see how dipole subs will perform in low-to-average SPL environments.
I have 11 feet to play with in my listening area, which is plenty of room for large flat panels.
I'm still NOT sold on dipole. I think it has great potential, but I think TL is the better solution for the hi fi system.
With that being said, I'm pretty sure that I'm going to use those panels for midrange for a long time, at least with different drivers and different wood.
Asalways, with personal taste, YMMV.
Dave
I'm actually going to build a gigante version with the leftover woofers. I want to see how dipole subs will perform in low-to-average SPL environments.
I have 11 feet to play with in my listening area, which is plenty of room for large flat panels.
I'm still NOT sold on dipole. I think it has great potential, but I think TL is the better solution for the hi fi system.
With that being said, I'm pretty sure that I'm going to use those panels for midrange for a long time, at least with different drivers and different wood.
Asalways, with personal taste, YMMV.
Dave
I had another idea for these! (or some sort of brain issue)
Since i am going to hang them fromthe ceiling i could theoreticly port them rite out the bottom? this may, almost add a third angle of sound?
I realize this will also relagate them to always hang down or on stands upside down after the fact lol.
Comments?
Since i am going to hang them fromthe ceiling i could theoreticly port them rite out the bottom? this may, almost add a third angle of sound?
I realize this will also relagate them to always hang down or on stands upside down after the fact lol.
Comments?
I use Kef TDM34DS surrounds and quite like them. The link has specs and xo points.
If I wanted to replicate them I'd try a pair of tang band full rangers with an 8" front firing unit that has a natural roll off in a sealed box of ~80Hz.
Cheers.
Rob
If I wanted to replicate them I'd try a pair of tang band full rangers with an 8" front firing unit that has a natural roll off in a sealed box of ~80Hz.
Cheers.
Rob
Excuse the bad paint sketch, batteries dead on my camera.
On each side is the 6.5" co-ax, on the front is the 'racetrack' shaped bass driver. the bass unit does 80 - 200, the coaxes do the rest in dipole (wired out of phase).
With the speakers on the walls each side of you, positive voltage will move the mids towards the screen, and the bass driver towards the listener.
Each driver has it's own enclosure btw.
On each side is the 6.5" co-ax, on the front is the 'racetrack' shaped bass driver. the bass unit does 80 - 200, the coaxes do the rest in dipole (wired out of phase).
With the speakers on the walls each side of you, positive voltage will move the mids towards the screen, and the bass driver towards the listener.
Each driver has it's own enclosure btw.
Attachments
3 seperate, like I said - "each driver has it's own enclosure"
Crossover - You've only got to do 1 xo point if you use a full range for the mid/tweet and an 8" for the front firing 80 - 200 bit.
Just make sure the bass driver models to a Q 0.71 in a sealed box with an F3 of ~80Hz.
I use a digital crossover so would play with that first then try and copy the final settings over to a passive xo.
Good luck with your project,
Rob.
Crossover - You've only got to do 1 xo point if you use a full range for the mid/tweet and an 8" for the front firing 80 - 200 bit.
Just make sure the bass driver models to a Q 0.71 in a sealed box with an F3 of ~80Hz.
I use a digital crossover so would play with that first then try and copy the final settings over to a passive xo.
Good luck with your project,
Rob.
If I was having a go at dipole surrounds right now I'd be looking at something like these:
http://www.jblsynthesis.com/product...rod=S1A&Language=ENG&Country=GB&Region=EUROPE
Rob.
http://www.jblsynthesis.com/product...rod=S1A&Language=ENG&Country=GB&Region=EUROPE
Rob.
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