Carlos,
This praise for me and my amps is very nice, but it's absurd. Anyone with some knowledge and a lot of perseverance can build a better amp; engineering qualifications are not required, but it worries me that EEs continue to dominate the field, with their concern to THD, which below a certain level bears little relation to the quality of the sound.
Greg,
That's a VERY nice picture. Altium? Thank you.......
Cheers,
Hugh
This praise for me and my amps is very nice, but it's absurd. Anyone with some knowledge and a lot of perseverance can build a better amp; engineering qualifications are not required, but it worries me that EEs continue to dominate the field, with their concern to THD, which below a certain level bears little relation to the quality of the sound.
Greg,
That's a VERY nice picture. Altium? Thank you.......
Cheers,
Hugh
Related that subject i think you are wrong
You are special as a very good designer... have method, good ears, intelligence.... i do not think that only beeing EE someone can do the job you can do.... maybe they worry too much about THD or other things.... we have Intermodulation too.... we had the low noise mania.... the high speed mania... the dinamic power mania... the direct coupling mania...now we have CCS, current sinks, mirror and different output topologies.
Well, this is "fashion" and will finish soon, i could see other fashions dictated by IHF (Institute of High Fidelity) that are dead now a days...so...
But i feel great to imagine that anyone can do.... this means, to myself, that i can have may own hopes to learn enougth to be so good as you are.
regards,
Carlos
You are special as a very good designer... have method, good ears, intelligence.... i do not think that only beeing EE someone can do the job you can do.... maybe they worry too much about THD or other things.... we have Intermodulation too.... we had the low noise mania.... the high speed mania... the dinamic power mania... the direct coupling mania...now we have CCS, current sinks, mirror and different output topologies.
Well, this is "fashion" and will finish soon, i could see other fashions dictated by IHF (Institute of High Fidelity) that are dead now a days...so...
But i feel great to imagine that anyone can do.... this means, to myself, that i can have may own hopes to learn enougth to be so good as you are.
regards,
Carlos
Yes, I simply installed them over the board so I have an online picture showing most components, and can be used to help members fault trace their boards...
We went trough many iterations of the boards some with no jumpers... but this one seems the best compromise... Like Carlos said, doublesided means double costs.. (well almost). If it was a double sided board with top layer traces, you would take no notice of it... I think haveing jumpers is even better than top layer traces as they can be further seperated from bottom layer..
We went trough many iterations of the boards some with no jumpers... but this one seems the best compromise... Like Carlos said, doublesided means double costs.. (well almost). If it was a double sided board with top layer traces, you would take no notice of it... I think haveing jumpers is even better than top layer traces as they can be further seperated from bottom layer..
That does not mean to say that there are no EEs with the perseverance and the right knowledge to build good sounding amps.
Are those components cheap or expensive in a comparison
of my local price, a small shop in my neigthborhood, with Internacional prices.
Resistance is 1 ohms and 3 watts.... 6 units for 1 USD.
Electrolitic condenser: 220uf/63 volts.... 6 units for 1 USD
Electrolitic condenser: 220uf/35 volts.... 10 units for 1 USD
Please folks...tell me some about those prices.
regards,
Carlos
of my local price, a small shop in my neigthborhood, with Internacional prices.
Resistance is 1 ohms and 3 watts.... 6 units for 1 USD.
Electrolitic condenser: 220uf/63 volts.... 6 units for 1 USD
Electrolitic condenser: 220uf/35 volts.... 10 units for 1 USD
Please folks...tell me some about those prices.
regards,
Carlos
Attachments
yep 220u/63 caps in the US seem to start at about 11cents... goes up to alot more of course.... due to things like expected lifespan, temperature grade...etc. So that is a good price...I often use those hitanos... not the best, but definately not the worst...
We listened to some Precision this morning, finaly had some time to complete it and set up... had some issues at first... then found a resistor that was not soldered
... reconnected all, powered on and then connected a speaker... dead silent, thought it was dead... powered off plugged in the handy ipod and powered on again... sweet music played immediatly... eventualy tested with DVD player... sounds great... Mains supply is a bit high today... (public holiday) so I did not play it too long though. Tommorrow I can work in peace (noise) when my wife is at work, to bias it properly.
Was a great relief to know the factory boards work.... but work carefully and systematically... over 200 solder spots per channel...
We listened to some Precision this morning, finaly had some time to complete it and set up... had some issues at first... then found a resistor that was not soldered
... reconnected all, powered on and then connected a speaker... dead silent, thought it was dead... powered off plugged in the handy ipod and powered on again... sweet music played immediatly... eventualy tested with DVD player... sounds great... Mains supply is a bit high today... (public holiday) so I did not play it too long though. Tommorrow I can work in peace (noise) when my wife is at work, to bias it properly.Was a great relief to know the factory boards work.... but work carefully and systematically... over 200 solder spots per channel...
Re: Are those components cheap or expensive in a comparison
Hi Carlos,
Here:
- 220uF/63V electrolytic: 9 pcs for 1 USD
- 220uF/35V electrolytic: 27 pcs for 1 USD
- 1r/2W metaloxide resistor: 20 pcs for 1USD
- 1r/5W wirewound resistor 8 pcs for 1 USD
(No 3W rated resistor available in the local shop.)
destroyer X said:
Hi Carlos,
Here:
- 220uF/63V electrolytic: 9 pcs for 1 USD
- 220uF/35V electrolytic: 27 pcs for 1 USD
- 1r/2W metaloxide resistor: 20 pcs for 1USD
- 1r/5W wirewound resistor 8 pcs for 1 USD
(No 3W rated resistor available in the local shop.)
Just finished building my speakers. I have to still veneer to make them pretty, but they work and they are very nice sounding connected to my Harmon Kardon AVR135. Bass is lacking but the speakers are Full Range 4.5" units so bass is not really expected. I just got my Mouser order an hour or so ago so the next few days I will try to complete my build of two power supplys and two HRII to power these speakers. Remember these are for my wife for her birthday so I dont get to do any further listening since she will be home any minute. Tomorrow more work and more listening
I built a version of the FS Fonken for FE127e designed by Dave Dlugos from Plante10. I tried to follow his plans perfectly but one of my measurements went from 4.75" to 6" a difference of 1.25" and added maybe 20% to the volume of the enclosure. I didnt figure it out until point that I thought was not worth going back and fixing unless the sound was bad. So I continued and I really like it. My first DIY speaker build.
Uriah
Nordic, are you building an enclosure for the Precision? Would love to see it when you do. I am sure we will though
I built a version of the FS Fonken for FE127e designed by Dave Dlugos from Plante10. I tried to follow his plans perfectly but one of my measurements went from 4.75" to 6" a difference of 1.25" and added maybe 20% to the volume of the enclosure. I didnt figure it out until point that I thought was not worth going back and fixing unless the sound was bad. So I continued and I really like it. My first DIY speaker build.
Uriah
Nordic, are you building an enclosure for the Precision? Would love to see it when you do. I am sure we will though
AKSA said:
Hello Hugh and Carlos
Yes, perseverance and experience, but also some intuitions and I know that you do have that.
There is a lot of engineer who don't have any intuition but just a nice AP distortion analyser and no ears, and they still design costly amp who don't sound alive... At this April Montreal audio show there was a lot of $10,000 up to $200,000 amps who was sounding only as good as my old Radford amp, but at those $K price they should do much better..
Bye
Gaetan
Hello Gaetan, those day i was thinking about you
I am glad you are here...following the thread.
I would be very happy to know your progress related your own designs.
Send me a mail with that report when the good moment arrive.
A new workbench picture too...if the Kodak is already fixed.
à bientôt
Carlos
I am glad you are here...following the thread.
I would be very happy to know your progress related your own designs.
Send me a mail with that report when the good moment arrive.
A new workbench picture too...if the Kodak is already fixed.
à bientôt
Carlos
uncle Carlos
hi, good morning. i just construct "precsion I", but problem is, its getting too hot about 2mins operate temperature rise to 70deg "C", this will harm the power transistor? what is the maxium temp shound be accepet for this amp? i am using 2sc2922/2sa1216.
thank you.. i will let you know update too.....
hi, good morning. i just construct "precsion I", but problem is, its getting too hot about 2mins operate temperature rise to 70deg "C", this will harm the power transistor? what is the maxium temp shound be accepet for this amp? i am using 2sc2922/2sa1216.
thank you.. i will let you know update too.....
uncle Carlos
hi, good morning. i just construct "precsion I", but problem is, its getting too hot about 2mins operate temperature rise to 70deg "C", this will harm the power transistor? what is the maxium temp shound be accepet for this amp? i am using 2sc2922/2sa1216.
thank you.. i will let you know update too.....
hi, good morning. i just construct "precsion I", but problem is, its getting too hot about 2mins operate temperature rise to 70deg "C", this will harm the power transistor? what is the maxium temp shound be accepet for this amp? i am using 2sc2922/2sa1216.
thank you.. i will let you know update too.....
Have you used protective resistances in series into the rails to adjust bias?
Is your bias control adjusting properly?
You need to reduce your stand by bias (no signal current)
If your bias trimpot control is not operating, means you have errors into your construction, so, check all parts if correct in place, check board for errors into the soldering side, short circuits, opened circuits and soon you will be smiling.
The amplifier works, the circuit was tested several times, Nico have tested the boards layout and there's no "bug" into the Precision.... mistake made.... resistance with wrong value, or transistor assembled inverted... something alike that.... and this happens a lot.... we are humans...so.... mistakes is something we use to make daily.
Are you having off set into your amplifier?... that voltage, dc voltage, in the order of milivolts, present into the output terminals?
Have you measured the transistors base to emitter voltage... are they having readings from 550 to 620 milivolts?
regards,
Carlos
Is your bias control adjusting properly?
You need to reduce your stand by bias (no signal current)
If your bias trimpot control is not operating, means you have errors into your construction, so, check all parts if correct in place, check board for errors into the soldering side, short circuits, opened circuits and soon you will be smiling.
The amplifier works, the circuit was tested several times, Nico have tested the boards layout and there's no "bug" into the Precision.... mistake made.... resistance with wrong value, or transistor assembled inverted... something alike that.... and this happens a lot.... we are humans...so.... mistakes is something we use to make daily.
Are you having off set into your amplifier?... that voltage, dc voltage, in the order of milivolts, present into the output terminals?
Have you measured the transistors base to emitter voltage... are they having readings from 550 to 620 milivolts?
regards,
Carlos
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