Arg.
that looks good too!
So I have a room (actually 2 rooms in one + a workshop) where I will use these.
the main theatre room is an L shape.
3mtrs x 10mtrs down the long L and 3.5 x 6 on the shorter L, 28mtr theatre screen at the end of the long, 3.2mtrs high ceilings
the workshop is 11M x 8M
Awaiting some fe206e's
Choices I see are:
Vulcan - double rear mouth horn - large room design - can't be too close to walls.
Kirishima - double mouth front vented Manafold (BVR?) - can operate closer to walls?
Dallas II - Single folded horn - more difficult angles.
Which would give the tightest bass, realistic accoustic and voice soundstage? (With the fe206e's I am awating)
Interested if all 3 of these have ever been together in one room
S.
that looks good too!
So I have a room (actually 2 rooms in one + a workshop) where I will use these.
the main theatre room is an L shape.
3mtrs x 10mtrs down the long L and 3.5 x 6 on the shorter L, 28mtr theatre screen at the end of the long, 3.2mtrs high ceilings
the workshop is 11M x 8M
Awaiting some fe206e's
Choices I see are:
Vulcan - double rear mouth horn - large room design - can't be too close to walls.
Kirishima - double mouth front vented Manafold (BVR?) - can operate closer to walls?
Dallas II - Single folded horn - more difficult angles.
Which would give the tightest bass, realistic accoustic and voice soundstage? (With the fe206e's I am awating)
Interested if all 3 of these have ever been together in one room
S.
Interested if all 3 of these have ever been together in one room
S.
Maybe you will be the first one...
Since Vulcan is a boundary-loaded design, I'm not sure where the idea that it can't be used near boundaries has come from.
'Realistic acoustic' and 'soundstage' unfortunately are entirely subjective terms and therefore depend on what the individual in question deems them to be, to say nothing of varying greatly depending on the system and room they are used in. The power-response of the three enclosures referred to is very different below ~500Hz given their terminus locations and horn designs.
'Tight bass' is also subjective, but largely indicates minimal group delay and a damped response, in which case my automatic recommendation would be dedicated woofers in a sealed box with a Qtc of 0.5 once amplifier output impedance et al have been factored in.
'Realistic acoustic' and 'soundstage' unfortunately are entirely subjective terms and therefore depend on what the individual in question deems them to be, to say nothing of varying greatly depending on the system and room they are used in. The power-response of the three enclosures referred to is very different below ~500Hz given their terminus locations and horn designs.
'Tight bass' is also subjective, but largely indicates minimal group delay and a damped response, in which case my automatic recommendation would be dedicated woofers in a sealed box with a Qtc of 0.5 once amplifier output impedance et al have been factored in.
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Hi guys, I'm half way through with my Dallas II project.
It's been like hell trying to put it all together. Cutting the parts is crazy, lots of freaky angles, and lots of stuff that can go wrong. After cutting all the parts I still need to correct some of them when gluing.
Anyway, I finished the exterior shell, and before I start putting the inside parts in I must decide for the cable route inside. Any ideas?
I was thinking of mounting the connectors on the upper back side. How should I run the wire? straight through all the inside panels or? Any ideas/pictures are welcomed!
It's been like hell trying to put it all together. Cutting the parts is crazy, lots of freaky angles, and lots of stuff that can go wrong. After cutting all the parts I still need to correct some of them when gluing.
Anyway, I finished the exterior shell, and before I start putting the inside parts in I must decide for the cable route inside. Any ideas?
I was thinking of mounting the connectors on the upper back side. How should I run the wire? straight through all the inside panels or? Any ideas/pictures are welcomed!
So I finally got off my *** and decided to finish this project. It's been in the basement way too long.
I am now thinking on the route of the cable. What would be the best way?
The large parts inside are not glued in yet.
I was thinking of going straight through them. Make a hole in each and then glue it back. This way the cable is as short as possible.
Would that affect sound? The fact that there's the wire suspended in the middle?
Or would it be better (and harder) to glue the cable down to the wood and route it?
I need to glue the large piece in the back of the speaker and I need to make a decision.
I still need to check the tolerance of each part before I put the final panel. I have some pieces that are 1-2 mm shorter. And I'm not sure if the glue will cover that.
I am now thinking on the route of the cable. What would be the best way?
The large parts inside are not glued in yet.
I was thinking of going straight through them. Make a hole in each and then glue it back. This way the cable is as short as possible.
Would that affect sound? The fact that there's the wire suspended in the middle?
Or would it be better (and harder) to glue the cable down to the wood and route it?
I need to glue the large piece in the back of the speaker and I need to make a decision.
I still need to check the tolerance of each part before I put the final panel. I have some pieces that are 1-2 mm shorter. And I'm not sure if the glue will cover that.
Attachments
Finally, I've finished one!
I decided to run the cable straight through the inside parts, then I filled the holes with glue. This way the distance is short and cables don't vibrate on the wood.
I also used metal inserts for speakers, so I can take them off without damaging the screw holes.
I still need to finish the other one and paint them but so far I really like the sound.
I used cat litter as filler. The speaker is heavy, I didn't expect it to be so heavy.
I decided to run the cable straight through the inside parts, then I filled the holes with glue. This way the distance is short and cables don't vibrate on the wood.
I also used metal inserts for speakers, so I can take them off without damaging the screw holes.
I still need to finish the other one and paint them but so far I really like the sound.
I used cat litter as filler. The speaker is heavy, I didn't expect it to be so heavy.
Attachments
Trileru,
It's a big cabinet and also has cat litter in the voids... the FE206En is a not a lightweight driver - heavy with a good sized magnet... so your speaker should be heavy.
The build is looking nice, and good luck with the remaining cabinet!
Thanks!
I didn't know I should have... Why is that better?
How do the Dallas II with 206en sound?
Been lurking and am currently looking at options which include the Dallas II. How did they turn out sound wise?
Cheers
Paul
Been lurking and am currently looking at options which include the Dallas II. How did they turn out sound wise?
Cheers
Paul
Kudos!
Also, I tried to unsubscribe from this thread because I'm not working that hard for a speaker box; however, you just can't do that when you're not subscribed to it in the first place. So as to stay on the topic of the thread, I'd like to know, is there a "cliff's notes" version available?
Also, I tried to unsubscribe from this thread because I'm not working that hard for a speaker box; however, you just can't do that when you're not subscribed to it in the first place. So as to stay on the topic of the thread, I'd like to know, is there a "cliff's notes" version available?
- Follow the plans, they have been reconstructed after they've been partially lost. You can get them updated from here: Dallas II Plans complete
- Have access to a decent electric wood saw that can cut in angles of at least 45%.
- Have strong wood glue. I used Bison PU Max
- Get wood inserts for speakers attachment.
- Get wood sealing kit to work the insides before you add the last cover.
- Have cutter so you you trim the excess glue after it's cured (it expands a bit).
- Clamps that can grip at least 35cm, preferably 40cm.
And 18mm birch wood and the Fostex drivers
- Have access to a decent electric wood saw that can cut in angles of at least 45%.
- Have strong wood glue. I used Bison PU Max
- Get wood inserts for speakers attachment.
- Get wood sealing kit to work the insides before you add the last cover.
- Have cutter so you you trim the excess glue after it's cured (it expands a bit).
- Clamps that can grip at least 35cm, preferably 40cm.
And 18mm birch wood and the Fostex drivers
- Follow the plans, they have been reconstructed after they've been partially lost. You can get them updated from here: Dallas II Plans complete
- Have access to a decent electric wood saw that can cut in angles of at least 45%.
- Have strong wood glue. I used Bison PU Max
- Get wood inserts for speakers attachment.
- Get wood sealing kit to work the insides before you add the last cover.
- Have cutter so you you trim the excess glue after it's cured (it expands a bit).
- Clamps that can grip at least 35cm, preferably 40cm.
And 18mm birch wood and the Fostex drivers
Hello
I want to build the Dallas 2. I have the plans for the wooden structure, but no information on the absorbent material please if you kindly informs on them
Thank you
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