DAC 2496 (AK4393) DAC KIT With CS8416+AK4393+5532

Yes it would require a specially designed amp.

However take note of my earlier questions.
Without a phase spiltter you could run into dangerous conditions on the amp output in case of a fault on hot or cold pins. You would need to build protection circuits into the design, and perhaps these circuits would damage the sound more than the phase splitter?
 
Protections are all a form of negative feedback, and as such, are adjustable so that it can't harm the signal, at some cost of reduced effectiveness for the negative feedback circuit. How difficult that might be is something that I cannot guess. It is over my head.

In this case, I think it would be both easier and more fun to use the dac's differential output as a bridge amplifier driver, resulting in a huge voice and a music suitable output. This, when successful, could not be apathetic at all, and that would be better than the small signal NE5532 or copies, at output. I wish that I knew how to do better than that, but I'm absolutely sure that we could and somewhat sure that we probably should try.
 
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Back to the original topic

Power supply is 2x15vac... with 2x 15000uF/25V

Just made some minor changes to the 2496 dac power-supply:
- replaced the standard 7809 regulator by the ON-Semi equivalent (with bead on output wire)
- inserted a 2uH in the connection of the analog supply to the digital supply, thus creating a low-pass filter in conjunction with the 2200uF/100nF cap improving seperation of digital and analog supply.

I did not replace the 7815/7915, because of the frustrating hassle of de-soldering them and I did not want to cut them up...

Result:
- The sound-stage cleaned-up a bit more. Instruments gained some detail and separation.
- The high-hats are more defined, with that characteristic "tjsss" sound they ought to have, without any harshness. So a bit of "Audio Nirvana" ...
- Bass is still firm, but gained some detail :cool:

In short: A disaster for the vendors of ready built DAC's... for I won't buy one in the foreseeable future ;)
 
Anyone ever run into issues with the BrownDog adapter + OPA827? I've tried two adapters + 4 OPA827s, and each time I connect it up I get a 10V offset in one of the channels. Not sure if I've overheated the chips, I'm being silly with the adapter or something else.

Unfortunately I can't find the original board I had with my first two opa827s, so I'm not able to try to mix and match the opamps until I get two working channels.
 
WIMA FKP2 capacitors?

I need FKP2 caps for my DAC.

These are what I found, are they real Wima FKP2? These are thin and white, and not thick and red as the ones I have seen on BOM.
 

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I was wondering if anyone dealt with the analog part .. I'm threw out opamp as soon as heard first sounds, and put in a buffer that sounds much better..


In the meantime, I discovered excellent LT1363/1364, I'm thinking now how to use them in this board..

So, analog filter on this board have everywhere 1K resistor, capacitors 3n3 and 1n .. and when you look at the AK4396 pdf they suggested completely different values , closer to the sense..
 

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OK, what is advice?
If I were you, I'd change the C's and R's in the Filter section. I can't comment on the sound produced in the 4393 configuration, because I implemented the proper values initially (along with a number of other adjustments). It is quite a puzzle to find the correct locations of some components. I bought more resistors/capacitors than needed so I could select the best matching ones. Resistors are now within 0.2% and caps 0.5%..

Running the circuit with an AD826 and it sounds great... You would not know it's a darn cheap DAC when listened to in a blind test.

@LT1363/4: I did not know about this opamp either. It appears to have better specs than the AD826, but resembles it too: Wide open-loop bandwidth and approx. 70 to 75 db open loop gain.

I don't know which opamp you plan to use, but I suspect the supplied 5532 to be a fake... It sounded harsh to me... not like the 5532 in the CD880 I own.
 
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If I were you, I'd change the C's and R's in the Filter section. I can't comment on the sound produced in the 4393 configuration, because I implemented the proper values initially (along with a number of other adjustments). It is quite a puzzle to find the correct locations of some components.



.

I did not quite understand, problem is to find a place for some resistors on the board? Can you mark in board picture where is place for 150R, others are 2k4..
 
OK, what is advice?

No advice, simply you're right about the wrong values, I've come to same result at the post I've linked.

I did not quite understand, problem is to find a place for some resistors on the board? Can you mark in board picture where is place for 150R, others are 2k4..

If you search on the thread I've posted a pic with parts position and numbering.

BTW you can find that pic and my upgrade BOM faster here.