Re: Corian Speaker
thanks, it certianly did require a lot of thought and engineering along with about 150 hrs of hard work, cant imagine doing it without the tools i had thoughronzeman said:Even with that cool CNC rig it was a fantastic accomplishment ! The cabinets must weigh a ton. At first I thought the boxes were made of corian only...little or no internals...Now I See ! WELL DONE
Re: Advice on Small Thor Build.
http://www.frugal-horn.com/contact.html
dave
mikeabramson said:Scottmoose... email address
http://www.frugal-horn.com/contact.html
dave
Thanks Ron,
Just started my Small Thor build. (finally taken the plunge after 18 months watching all your fine efforts).
As an ignoramous on diy speakers, I was hoping to find someone to mentor me thru the initial stages.
I've spent hours reading thru all the threads (yours,Greenie,Byrd,Karlxii etc etc). Have enjoyed every minute - but there is too much info spread all over the place. (It's a nightmare trying to find that bit of info/answer I read months ago....)
I was going to suggest to Scottmoose (& Planet10) start a new thread: "Small Thor Build Q&A - (an Idiots Guide.)" ...with all the relevant bits.
Newbies can then post their build questions..... (and you "have-beens" can provide the answers and post your pics).
Thanks in advance
Mike.A
Just started my Small Thor build. (finally taken the plunge after 18 months watching all your fine efforts).
As an ignoramous on diy speakers, I was hoping to find someone to mentor me thru the initial stages.
I've spent hours reading thru all the threads (yours,Greenie,Byrd,Karlxii etc etc). Have enjoyed every minute - but there is too much info spread all over the place. (It's a nightmare trying to find that bit of info/answer I read months ago....)
I was going to suggest to Scottmoose (& Planet10) start a new thread: "Small Thor Build Q&A - (an Idiots Guide.)" ...with all the relevant bits.
Newbies can then post their build questions..... (and you "have-beens" can provide the answers and post your pics).
Thanks in advance
Mike.A
mikeabramson said:I was going to suggest to Scottmoose (& Planet10) start a new thread: "Small Thor Build Q&A - (an Idiots Guide.)" ...with all the relevant bits.
We may not be the best one to ask... neither of us is likely to build a Thor, we just saw an anomaly and went on to research it and plug the hole.
dave
Dave, and SM.
What a marvelous plug you designed too!
I was listening to a new CD I got for Xmas, "Pictures from an Exhibition", I had to touch the subwoofer to make sure it was not playing. It wasn't. They don't replace subs, however they sure drive deeper than most expect for their size (drivers)
I received most of my new Xover parts for Xmas as well. Here are some of the Caps that will go in a new Xover outside the speaker.
Mike A. ,
If you start a new thread and ask your questions there, upload photos I sure others along with myself will be more than happy to help you however we can. This is a wonderful group of DIYers, very helpful.
Jump in and start asking. Don't be overwhelmed by inaction.
My curved Thors' were my first pair of speakers I ever built. I have since built 2 other pair and a MONSTER subwoofer for HT. How can I help?
PS, If you start a new thread put a link into this thread.
Ron
What a marvelous plug you designed too!
I was listening to a new CD I got for Xmas, "Pictures from an Exhibition", I had to touch the subwoofer to make sure it was not playing. It wasn't. They don't replace subs, however they sure drive deeper than most expect for their size (drivers)
I received most of my new Xover parts for Xmas as well. Here are some of the Caps that will go in a new Xover outside the speaker.
Mike A. ,
If you start a new thread and ask your questions there, upload photos I sure others along with myself will be more than happy to help you however we can. This is a wonderful group of DIYers, very helpful.
Jump in and start asking. Don't be overwhelmed by inaction.
My curved Thors' were my first pair of speakers I ever built. I have since built 2 other pair and a MONSTER subwoofer for HT. How can I help?
PS, If you start a new thread put a link into this thread.
Ron
Attachments
Newby questions.
I have cut the wood and now have (most) of the the hardware. I am sure most questions have been answered in past posts, but would appreciate info on the following....
Newby questions:
1. Swisscheesing : what is the recommended % and does it make sense to cut the holes identical for both boxes? (symmetrical)
2. Inside wall damping : (foam, bitumin or carpeting on the inside walls) Is it useful, what is best and where?
3. The Port size : is it critical? (cannot get 75mm, but can get superb quality airtight 70mm). Alternatively, can two small tubes be used or will it effect the sound?
4. Favoured port location? (I fancy front). Must it be as low down as possible?
5. Bracing : must it touch the speakers? And the tweeter?
6. Where is the best place for the cross-over? (I have the Madisound premium)
7. (Non Small Thor question) Why is the ariel tweeter offset?
Many thanks in advance for any input.
Brgrds
I have cut the wood and now have (most) of the the hardware. I am sure most questions have been answered in past posts, but would appreciate info on the following....
Newby questions:
1. Swisscheesing : what is the recommended % and does it make sense to cut the holes identical for both boxes? (symmetrical)
2. Inside wall damping : (foam, bitumin or carpeting on the inside walls) Is it useful, what is best and where?
3. The Port size : is it critical? (cannot get 75mm, but can get superb quality airtight 70mm). Alternatively, can two small tubes be used or will it effect the sound?
4. Favoured port location? (I fancy front). Must it be as low down as possible?
5. Bracing : must it touch the speakers? And the tweeter?
6. Where is the best place for the cross-over? (I have the Madisound premium)
7. (Non Small Thor question) Why is the ariel tweeter offset?
Many thanks in advance for any input.
Brgrds
Re: Newby questions.
1/ 35-40% speaker to speaker they should be close if not identical.
2/ wool or cotton felt, BAF batting, fiberglass insulation.
3/ it is critical. If you decrease the cross section you have to shorten the port. 2 ports of total cross section can be subbed
4/ where it is along the length of the box is important. It can fire out front, back side or bottom
5/ it should be firm against the magnet, but not so much pressure to stress the frame Tweeter no care.
6/ not in the box.
7/ to distribute the edge diffraction
dave
mikeabramson said:1. Swisscheesing : what is the recommended % and does it make sense to cut the holes identical for both boxes? (symmetrical)
2. Inside wall damping : (foam, bitumin or carpeting on the inside walls) Is it useful, what is best and where?
3. The Port size : is it critical? (cannot get 75mm, but can get superb quality airtight 70mm). Alternatively, can two small tubes be used or will it effect the sound?
4. Favoured port location? (I fancy front). Must it be as low down as possible?
5. Bracing : must it touch the speakers? And the tweeter?
6. Where is the best place for the cross-over? (I have the Madisound premium)
7. (Non Small Thor question) Why is the ariel tweeter offset?
1/ 35-40% speaker to speaker they should be close if not identical.
2/ wool or cotton felt, BAF batting, fiberglass insulation.
3/ it is critical. If you decrease the cross section you have to shorten the port. 2 ports of total cross section can be subbed
4/ where it is along the length of the box is important. It can fire out front, back side or bottom
5/ it should be firm against the magnet, but not so much pressure to stress the frame Tweeter no care.
6/ not in the box.
7/ to distribute the edge diffraction
dave
Re: Re: Newby questions.
Dave,
If I may so bold as to add to your answers;
1) don't overdo the swisscheesing......I came REAL close. I might have lost some of the weight that helps with resonance
2) Only insulate the top 1/2 of the box, maybe ~1 foot below the lower driver.
4) It depends on how close to the rear wall you can place your speakers, I ported out the front so the speaker could sit closer to the rear wall.....WAF Out the rear will add room boost. Like a subwoofer in a corner.
6) Amen to that, my new X-overs will be OUTside
Thanks again for all your work P-10
Ron
MA, Got any pics yet?
planet10 said:
1/ 35-40% speaker to speaker they should be close if not identical.
2/ wool or cotton felt, BAF batting, fiberglass insulation.
3/ it is critical. If you decrease the cross section you have to shorten the port. 2 ports of total cross section can be subbed
4/ where it is along the length of the box is important. It can fire out front, back side or bottom
5/ it should be firm against the magnet, but not so much pressure to stress the frame Tweeter no care.
6/ not in the box.
7/ to distribute the edge diffraction
dave
Dave,
If I may so bold as to add to your answers;
1) don't overdo the swisscheesing......I came REAL close. I might have lost some of the weight that helps with resonance
2) Only insulate the top 1/2 of the box, maybe ~1 foot below the lower driver.
4) It depends on how close to the rear wall you can place your speakers, I ported out the front so the speaker could sit closer to the rear wall.....WAF Out the rear will add room boost. Like a subwoofer in a corner.
6) Amen to that, my new X-overs will be OUTside
Thanks again for all your work P-10
Ron
MA, Got any pics yet?
I’d third? that - placing the crossover externally – I’ve put mine at the base of my Small Thors but have only screwed in the MDF base but it’s removal might mess up my veneering!!.
If you are placing your crossover into the cabinet locate it “near” a driver opening where you can get a hand in to unfix it (bolts or screws?) and make sure the board is the correct shape to manoeuvre out of the driver opening – break the board into more than one if necessary.
I say near, as you don’t want to create any interference from the drivers magnet! Having said that, I’ve just place my woofer/tweeter board screamingly close to my 8” woofer in the PMS’s. Worried about this I’ve tried listening with this board away from the driver and very close and can not hear an audible effect and would not do this normally except that it is a very restricted box.
http://www.greenie512.net/greenie512/html/wip.html
If you are placing your crossover into the cabinet locate it “near” a driver opening where you can get a hand in to unfix it (bolts or screws?) and make sure the board is the correct shape to manoeuvre out of the driver opening – break the board into more than one if necessary.
I say near, as you don’t want to create any interference from the drivers magnet! Having said that, I’ve just place my woofer/tweeter board screamingly close to my 8” woofer in the PMS’s. Worried about this I’ve tried listening with this board away from the driver and very close and can not hear an audible effect and would not do this normally except that it is a very restricted box.
http://www.greenie512.net/greenie512/html/wip.html
Re: Re: Re: Newby questions.
I backed off on the percentage after seeing yours and greenie's swisscheese. You want to use the holes to let air flow freely, to break up resonances, but not so many that they compromise the structural integritiy of the brace. Some of ours likely get as low as 30%.
dave
Renron said:1) don't overdo the swisscheesing......I came REAL close. I might have lost some of the weight that helps with resonance
I backed off on the percentage after seeing yours and greenie's swisscheese. You want to use the holes to let air flow freely, to break up resonances, but not so many that they compromise the structural integritiy of the brace. Some of ours likely get as low as 30%.
dave
troystg said:Reputes were vented out of the bottom and sit on small stands.
Absolutely NO subwoofer required in his LARGE living room.
EDIT:
And yet they remain nude and unfinished 3-4 yrs later...
Troystg,
Ditto on the subwoofer requirement, I had a professional musician over for dinner and he asked if the subwoofer was on. Nope. He was astounded by the amount of clean bass produced by the "Smalls".
Unfinished.........Tsk.....Tsk......
Ron
Repute said:YWould appreciate some pics of finished Thors. - Thanks!
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Repute said:Yeah, unfortunately mine remain nude.
Any suggestions what to do with them?
Would appreciate some pics of finished Thors.
Thanks!
Guilt got you out of hiding... LOL
It will be nice the day you can post a picture of those beautiful sounding AND looking speakers.
Can you feel the love?
Corian finish
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
- Home
- Loudspeakers
- Multi-Way
- Clarity on Seas Thor Kit