How in the heck does it loose so much light? that seems like a really bad loss, if a 575 watt Only gives 7500 then crap a 250 hqi would I guess( assuming) would give you even less then that, at that rate I might as well stick to my 4,000 lumen OHP, Unless Im missing something..........please tell me Im missing something.!!!!
Video Freak, I have had my hands on two diifrent kinds of halogen powered overhead projectors and I have a Dukane 670 that uses the HMI575 watt bulb. I have compared an Elmo Hp-L355 that I stuck a FXL halogen in side by side with my Dukane 670. With the FXL bulb the elmo is about 4000 lumens, without any lcd panel on top of the projectors and both of them on at the same time, the Dukane 670 makes the Elmo look like a dim flashlight. The FXL bulb has an output of about 16,000 lumens from what I have read. My friend has an Apollo A-1000 that he uses for the same projection panel that I have. It uses a DYS halogen at 600watts, the bulb is 17,000 lumens. that overhead is rated at 5500 lumens at the screen without andy lcd transparancy or otherwise. Its is noticably brighter than the Halogen Elmo that I had, but still falls way short of my Dukane.
My guess is that sence the 250 watt hqi bulb that you are talking about is about 20,000 lumens initial output. A properly
retrofitted OHP with that bulb should yeald about 5500-6500
lumen overhead projector. I think that is plenty bright enough for what we are doing. When I put my projection panel on
any of the three projectors I mentioned earlier, the differnce in light out put is not nearly as drastic. The Dukane no loner seems twice as bright as the Elmo or the Apollo, It is brigher, but not by as much as you would think based off the numbers I just rattled off. Sorry about the long post guys. Video, I hope I answered at least some of your question, sorry I dont have any photos to back up what I am saying, I do have a digital camera but I cant get it to take a decent picture of a projected image, I just kind of gave up on that.
My guess is that sence the 250 watt hqi bulb that you are talking about is about 20,000 lumens initial output. A properly
retrofitted OHP with that bulb should yeald about 5500-6500
lumen overhead projector. I think that is plenty bright enough for what we are doing. When I put my projection panel on
any of the three projectors I mentioned earlier, the differnce in light out put is not nearly as drastic. The Dukane no loner seems twice as bright as the Elmo or the Apollo, It is brigher, but not by as much as you would think based off the numbers I just rattled off. Sorry about the long post guys. Video, I hope I answered at least some of your question, sorry I dont have any photos to back up what I am saying, I do have a digital camera but I cant get it to take a decent picture of a projected image, I just kind of gave up on that.
Im starting to consider hmi, But i need to know a few things.
1. How much is hmi? (ballast, and bulb?)
2.does it come in any less wattages than 575w? (i dont need all that crazy sheeet, 20000 lumens would be just fine)
3. Does it produce alot of heat?
4. How big is it?
Can anyone come up with a spec sheet?
1. How much is hmi? (ballast, and bulb?)
2.does it come in any less wattages than 575w? (i dont need all that crazy sheeet, 20000 lumens would be just fine)
3. Does it produce alot of heat?
4. How big is it?
Can anyone come up with a spec sheet?
HMI ballasts are very expensive in US. That why my title was "replacement bulbs for a305sd etc." because those OHPs already have ballasts. So, in order to take advantage of this bulb, you have to have one of those OHPs which use HMI 575W bulbs.
To answer your 2nd question, yes, there are HMI 300W, which is slightly lower priced as far as I know. I think Elmo HP-a305 solar (not deluxe) uses this type. but I have never seen one for sale.
I think it produces samilar amount of heat to other MHs.
the "bulb" part is 21mm in diameter, length is 120-130mm.
To answer your 2nd question, yes, there are HMI 300W, which is slightly lower priced as far as I know. I think Elmo HP-a305 solar (not deluxe) uses this type. but I have never seen one for sale.
I think it produces samilar amount of heat to other MHs.
the "bulb" part is 21mm in diameter, length is 120-130mm.
Jetguy, I cant find any place that gives the Apollo's OHP lumens i used to think its 6,000+ Lms, can you show me where you got this info from?
the lumens are very wild! HMI 49,000 lm but only 7,500/11,000 Lms FXL 16,000 lms but 4,000 and 6,000 in some OHPs i even seen ENX 360w 4,000 OHPs so i think it has to do with OPTICS IMO why would the same bulb be brigher in some ohps and not in others? and some OHPs have condensors so maybe thats in the equation, or maybe Poohbear is right HQi is better than HMI, in lumen effecienty.
ok like above if 16,000 lms=4,000/6,000 lms DYS is 17,000 lms it should be 6,000/6,500+ now HQI, HQIs are 3,(5)00 Lumens brighter than DYS and more effecient so....the Lms SHOULD be 9,(5)00+++, OHP lumens
the lumens are very wild! HMI 49,000 lm but only 7,500/11,000 Lms FXL 16,000 lms but 4,000 and 6,000 in some OHPs i even seen ENX 360w 4,000 OHPs so i think it has to do with OPTICS IMO why would the same bulb be brigher in some ohps and not in others? and some OHPs have condensors so maybe thats in the equation, or maybe Poohbear is right HQi is better than HMI, in lumen effecienty.
ok like above if 16,000 lms=4,000/6,000 lms DYS is 17,000 lms it should be 6,000/6,500+ now HQI, HQIs are 3,(5)00 Lumens brighter than DYS and more effecient so....the Lms SHOULD be 9,(5)00+++, OHP lumens
Hmm I just found out they make single ended hmi bulbs. This throws a curve ball into my whole counting hmi out. I could get a 200w hmi with 16000 lumens, if the size is right and if i could get a ballast at a reasonable price. For the size you gave me, is that the double ended or single?
:UPDATE:
Ok i just found out these pieces of crap only last about 500 hours, if im paying a whole bunch of money per bulb and a whole bunch for the ballast, Im pretty sure the smarter choice would be single ended hqi. But there was an upside to the single ended hmi, they are only 2.5" to 3.5 inches, if only they lasted longer.
:UPDATE:
Ok i just found out these pieces of crap only last about 500 hours, if im paying a whole bunch of money per bulb and a whole bunch for the ballast, Im pretty sure the smarter choice would be single ended hqi. But there was an upside to the single ended hmi, they are only 2.5" to 3.5 inches, if only they lasted longer.
Negitive, I have seen the Apollo's advertised on Ebay with the ads quoting 5500 lumens dunno if its accurate, but I bet its close. Remeber that the FXL/ENX style bulb looks like a flashlight housing and bounces a beam of light off of a mirror. The apollo has a bulb directly under the fresnel so the apollo has a little less light loss because there is no mirror involved in getting the light to the fresnel. I think my friends apollo could be a little brighter if we put a condensor lens in it as well. Also remeber that manufacturers specs. can sometimes be taken with a grain of salt.
I know that my HMI powered overhead is significantly brighter than the apollo, I have seen them both side by side. But like I said earlier I dont think it makes as much difference once an lcd panel is on them. No matter what you do, you are still going to have to have the light offf and most of the light in the room under control before you can achive a decent image in my experience.
This is also based off the 2000+ lumen LCD projectors that I have used at work. They project a decent image with most of the lights on but it is still washed out until you turn the lights down.
and those units are 4-5 times as bright as anything I have been able to muster with an overhead projector and a projection panel of any kind.
I think a 250hqi retrofit in the apollo a-1000 would be a very worth while solution or any overhead of that type of desighn. For those of us who have an HMI powered projector already, finding a cheap source of bulbs is the best solution for us.
I know that my HMI powered overhead is significantly brighter than the apollo, I have seen them both side by side. But like I said earlier I dont think it makes as much difference once an lcd panel is on them. No matter what you do, you are still going to have to have the light offf and most of the light in the room under control before you can achive a decent image in my experience.
This is also based off the 2000+ lumen LCD projectors that I have used at work. They project a decent image with most of the lights on but it is still washed out until you turn the lights down.
and those units are 4-5 times as bright as anything I have been able to muster with an overhead projector and a projection panel of any kind.
I think a 250hqi retrofit in the apollo a-1000 would be a very worth while solution or any overhead of that type of desighn. For those of us who have an HMI powered projector already, finding a cheap source of bulbs is the best solution for us.
One more thing, Negetive, if you look at the mean lumen out put,
not the initial on the 250 watt HQI, they usually say about 16,000
lumens. They will dim down a bit after you start useing them. 20,000 is just an initial output.
Look at this pdf:
http://www.electriciansupplies.com/pdf/HID031.pdf
not the initial on the 250 watt HQI, they usually say about 16,000
lumens. They will dim down a bit after you start useing them. 20,000 is just an initial output.
Look at this pdf:
http://www.electriciansupplies.com/pdf/HID031.pdf
your right jetguy, all MH dim down even the HMI as many ppl have claimed.But no worries it Will take more than HALF its lifetime to dim, around 5,000 hours of use 
thats more than twice HMI and HMI will dim around 375++ hours lol
you have tested many OHPs have you tested OHP optics as well?
im thinking of retrofitting my lens too if possible or gettin another OHP altogether, I would like to know if the difference between singlet and triplet lenses are SIGNIFICANT, if not then i would stick with my singlet.
about the rated lumens, I too have seen ebayers advertising the A-1000 as 5,500 lm some higher and even lower, i 've emailed them and they werent sure they told me it was a guesstimate, i have emailed maybe 2-3.
thats more than twice HMI and HMI will dim around 375++ hours lolyou have tested many OHPs have you tested OHP optics as well?
im thinking of retrofitting my lens too if possible or gettin another OHP altogether, I would like to know if the difference between singlet and triplet lenses are SIGNIFICANT, if not then i would stick with my singlet.
about the rated lumens, I too have seen ebayers advertising the A-1000 as 5,500 lm some higher and even lower, i 've emailed them and they werent sure they told me it was a guesstimate, i have emailed maybe 2-3.
Negative, I would get a triplet lens for your overhead. It makes a huge difference. I sold the one out of my broken 680 to my friend that has that Apollo A-1000 just like yours. He is very happy, the image isnt blurry any more. I know you have said in your past posts that you dont want to deal with Alan at DIY labs, but the triplet lens he sells is exactly the same as the one as in my Dukane projectors except the focal lenght is just slightly shorter.
That lens will drop right in, you just need to adjust it so you get the lens exactly in the center over the fresnel to get the maximum amount of brightness out of your overhead. The lens in my old Elmo was a singlet as well, it would start to hurt my eyes after about a half hour or so. The triplet makes all the difference.
That lens will drop right in, you just need to adjust it so you get the lens exactly in the center over the fresnel to get the maximum amount of brightness out of your overhead. The lens in my old Elmo was a singlet as well, it would start to hurt my eyes after about a half hour or so. The triplet makes all the difference.
No, Brian isnt a member, he is a good friend from work. He got interested after seeing my setup. He was hooked after that. We both use Sharp QA-1650's. I think the QA-1200 you have is better though. Your contrast ratio is much better.
As far as putting the lens in your overhead, you dont have to do anything cheezy. There are four screws that hold your lens in.
Just loosen them up and pop your old lens out, drop the new lens in. The only part you have to fiddle with is adjusting the lens so its centered. But thats easy, leave your projection panel off and tun the ovehead on. Move the lens around until you have the brightest/most light shining on your wall or screen. Snug the screws back up and you are done. You way have to wiggle the mast around as well, We wound up putting a washer under the front mount to tip it back just a little since the mount that holds the mast to the body of the projector is a little flimsy. I did the adjustments for when I was over checking out his setup the other day. He had a big dark spot in the middle top half of the screen, he didnt realize that it needed to be adjusted. After we tweeked it in, his piture was nice and bright agian, and in perfect
focus.
As far as putting the lens in your overhead, you dont have to do anything cheezy. There are four screws that hold your lens in.
Just loosen them up and pop your old lens out, drop the new lens in. The only part you have to fiddle with is adjusting the lens so its centered. But thats easy, leave your projection panel off and tun the ovehead on. Move the lens around until you have the brightest/most light shining on your wall or screen. Snug the screws back up and you are done. You way have to wiggle the mast around as well, We wound up putting a washer under the front mount to tip it back just a little since the mount that holds the mast to the body of the projector is a little flimsy. I did the adjustments for when I was over checking out his setup the other day. He had a big dark spot in the middle top half of the screen, he didnt realize that it needed to be adjusted. After we tweeked it in, his piture was nice and bright agian, and in perfect
focus.
- Status
- This old topic is closed. If you want to reopen this topic, contact a moderator using the "Report Post" button.