Bhorn
Fergs1:
Very pretty work - not doubt you'll be getting less weight and extension than with the 206's, but then the WAF is probably higher.
With curious little fingers in the house, you might want to consider adding some snap-on metal grilles.
Our initial test for the stop sign baffles was corrugated cardboard duct-taped to the cabinet - that would be a quick way for you to assess whether wooden plates would be worthwhile.
Ed Shilling famously experimented with wooden salad bowls a few years back - there's the mathe-tific approach, then there's the intuitive DIY hacker approach - which one is right?
Something else to consider would be a set of Planet10's wooden phase plugs - they've made a huge difference every time I've used them 40-1197 and vintage Fosters.
what electronics are you using?
Fergs1:
Very pretty work - not doubt you'll be getting less weight and extension than with the 206's, but then the WAF is probably higher.
With curious little fingers in the house, you might want to consider adding some snap-on metal grilles.
Our initial test for the stop sign baffles was corrugated cardboard duct-taped to the cabinet - that would be a quick way for you to assess whether wooden plates would be worthwhile.
Ed Shilling famously experimented with wooden salad bowls a few years back - there's the mathe-tific approach, then there's the intuitive DIY hacker approach - which one is right?
Something else to consider would be a set of Planet10's wooden phase plugs - they've made a huge difference every time I've used them 40-1197 and vintage Fosters.
what electronics are you using?
greeting gentlemen, Chris(we share audio and christian names) i'm running a se triode strapped kt66 amp, cdp until recently was a Rotel 965bx but I'm using a first model playstation 1002(much better detail) and my rp is a Lenco heavy platter L78 with a bad *** plinth. my phono stage is crap and doesn't bear even smearing these pages with its name ( think provinces)and so a nice phono stage is now my main objectiive.
I'm starting to come around to the b'horns although the are very music dependant, the music must have space in it, no modern rock. great for jazz.
cheers fergs
I'm starting to come around to the b'horns although the are very music dependant, the music must have space in it, no modern rock. great for jazz.
cheers fergs
Buschhorn grills
Looking good Fergs. I too have curious little fingers in the house so removable grills were a high priority on my bhorns.
After a few days of attempting to build some nice looking grills I found some Sony bookshelf grills stashed in a cupboard. The Sony badges were quickly replaced with some badges (buttons for US readers) that I found on a trip to Kyrgyzstan, to make some nice looking grills.
The only tricky part to mounting the grills is getting the holes in exactly the right spot (and the right depth) so that the grill stays in. They're spaced so that the grill has to be bent a tiny bit to put it on, which then holds them in tight. I strongly recomend making a hole template and testing it first.
I've now started looking out for grills from cheap bookshelf speakers, and found some nice grills on some very cheap and nasty speakers.
The horns have a about 140 hours on them now, and contrary to other peoples experiences I think they sounded the best when the drivers were brand new (I'm using FE103E). I'll have to have another play with the stuffing. I should probably paint them some time too......
Looking good Fergs. I too have curious little fingers in the house so removable grills were a high priority on my bhorns.
After a few days of attempting to build some nice looking grills I found some Sony bookshelf grills stashed in a cupboard. The Sony badges were quickly replaced with some badges (buttons for US readers) that I found on a trip to Kyrgyzstan, to make some nice looking grills.
The only tricky part to mounting the grills is getting the holes in exactly the right spot (and the right depth) so that the grill stays in. They're spaced so that the grill has to be bent a tiny bit to put it on, which then holds them in tight. I strongly recomend making a hole template and testing it first.
I've now started looking out for grills from cheap bookshelf speakers, and found some nice grills on some very cheap and nasty speakers.
The horns have a about 140 hours on them now, and contrary to other peoples experiences I think they sounded the best when the drivers were brand new (I'm using FE103E). I'll have to have another play with the stuffing. I should probably paint them some time too......
Attachments
Of course i recommend no grills when poky fingers are around 
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?postid=865164#post865164
dave
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?postid=865164#post865164
dave
The 108's went for AU$204 but not to me. It was a great price, but more than I had to spend.
I think my problem with the bhorns is more positioning than anything, but I don't have much choice about where they go. I'm adding a new room to the house this year so hopefully I can find them a better position.
I think my problem with the bhorns is more positioning than anything, but I don't have much choice about where they go. I'm adding a new room to the house this year so hopefully I can find them a better position.
greetings all, ooty I think I'll just try the phase plugs. As far as sharp inhaling goes to be honest I just had to laugh at the situation, she has a job to do and she did it well. by the way ooty I followed your lead and bought a ps1 and It sounds great. Have you tried any of the mods like bypassing the output section etc
cheers fergs
cheers fergs
Hey folks, wasn't sure if I should bump a thread that's been dormant for over two years, but here goes.
I'd like to share my recent MkII experiences and hopefully get some input. My driver is a downgrade, actually- the budget champ Pioneer A11. I have the enclosures just clamped up (leaky) and I haven't gotten too far with adjusting the CC. Closest thing at hand was a couple of Beanie Babies. They seemed to work quite well, but I can't say whether it was the mass or the absorbtion qualities or both; more fiddling is in the future. First off- corner loaded means corner loaded. I had these playing on a T-amp near sidewalls and was underwhellmed. Put them near a corner and they come alive, and not just in bass quantity, but in overall performance. Lesson learned. Second- although I haven't seen any commentary on break-in for the Pioneers, it was almost as if I could hear them stretch their legs within an hour! I will be patient, but if anyone knows a thing or two about the A11's quirks, let me know.
My first choice for filling the voids is kitty litter for the sheer mass. I did this in the Half Changs and the difference in fill vs. none is discernable. Is expanding foam any advantage over sand or kitty litter?
Has anybody found a benefit with stuffing any specific part along the horn length? Felt on the 45deg. in the mouth?
I plan on tying the two sidewalls of the mouth together using a piece of 1/2" MDF about 4" deep, positioned so it splits the mouth in two, horizontally. Am I better off with a simple 1" dowel or two?
This is a mock-up in <gulp> MDF to see if the Buschhorns were good enough to spend money on Birch ply. I've already decided that they are, even at this cobbled together level of performance. What changes in sound characteristice can I expect with adequite materials?
Last question- is there any worth in pursuing the usual mods you see in fullrangers with the A11? Phase plug, epoxy the frame to magnet gap, duct seal, brace against the back of the driver, etc.
Thanks for your time, guys.
I'd like to share my recent MkII experiences and hopefully get some input. My driver is a downgrade, actually- the budget champ Pioneer A11. I have the enclosures just clamped up (leaky) and I haven't gotten too far with adjusting the CC. Closest thing at hand was a couple of Beanie Babies. They seemed to work quite well, but I can't say whether it was the mass or the absorbtion qualities or both; more fiddling is in the future. First off- corner loaded means corner loaded. I had these playing on a T-amp near sidewalls and was underwhellmed. Put them near a corner and they come alive, and not just in bass quantity, but in overall performance. Lesson learned. Second- although I haven't seen any commentary on break-in for the Pioneers, it was almost as if I could hear them stretch their legs within an hour! I will be patient, but if anyone knows a thing or two about the A11's quirks, let me know.
My first choice for filling the voids is kitty litter for the sheer mass. I did this in the Half Changs and the difference in fill vs. none is discernable. Is expanding foam any advantage over sand or kitty litter?
Has anybody found a benefit with stuffing any specific part along the horn length? Felt on the 45deg. in the mouth?
I plan on tying the two sidewalls of the mouth together using a piece of 1/2" MDF about 4" deep, positioned so it splits the mouth in two, horizontally. Am I better off with a simple 1" dowel or two?
This is a mock-up in <gulp> MDF to see if the Buschhorns were good enough to spend money on Birch ply. I've already decided that they are, even at this cobbled together level of performance. What changes in sound characteristice can I expect with adequite materials?
Last question- is there any worth in pursuing the usual mods you see in fullrangers with the A11? Phase plug, epoxy the frame to magnet gap, duct seal, brace against the back of the driver, etc.
Thanks for your time, guys.
planet10 said:
Got it, Puzzlecoat, phase plugs, and the basket treatment.
At what ratio should I thin the mixture and with what?
BTW, these sound better (by a little) almost every time I fire them up. They're getting about two to three hours of use per day. Experimenting with cabinet placement has been the most fruitful pursuit so far. I'm tickled stupid by the idea of having a set of speakers that I can dramatically change the character of by moving them a couple of inches. It can be tailored to mood, listening material, or listener. CC manipulation has been tricky, though. What sounds good this second didn't sound good two days ago, and placement compounds or diminishes the effects of any ballast. I could be complicating things by trying to dial in a driver that still might be breaking in...
fwater said:
I do it by feel. Partly because ever bottle of puzzlecoat seems to have a different "thickness" to start with. I add a drop or 2 of water at a time into a couple or 3 tablespoons until it gets to -- i am told -- about the viscosity of transmission fluid.
You don't want it to be too thin -- when i apply it it fgoes on quite thin and is already setting up as i get the last brush-strokes in.
I 1st cover the cone with whatever strokes gets it covered and then spinning the cone, i stroke from the dustcap out to the edge thru a couple revolutions to get the coat as consistent as possible.
dave
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