Building the Nathan 10

Status
This old topic is closed. If you want to reopen this topic, contact a moderator using the "Report Post" button.
Having John J. fab the panels is a step in the right direction. If you were open to having other folks with some experience help you out, you'd come out ahead. I just don't see that here, though, not with your bravado.
Pretty harsh words. Like you said John J. fabricating the panels is a step in the right direction. To me that looks like the start of coming out ahead.

So I'd like to use only part of the word you used (bravado). And that is brave. It is brave to come out and say...I'm making a hash of the panels...I'll let someone else do it.
 
Tenson said:
You lucky man :)

I don't know, its a double edge sword. Asians think differently and adjusting to that is a real challenge. I loved China when I fisrt went there, but now the same things that I found so "quaint" now grate on my nerves. The last time I went I couldn't wait to leave.

Bangkok is the same way. You can't believe the place at first, its sureal. But after about a year you can't wait to get back to sanity.
 
not quite

gedlee said:
You guys were tourists. Trust me they were charging you for those services. I got to know the place well enough to learn where the really good deals were and they were usually 1/4 - 1/3 of the tourist taylors. Things always look different to tourists.

Yes, Spray 90.


nope... my GE contact lived in Bangkok for 8 years... so he knew the right places as well. And they weren't in patpong... :D :D

John L.
 
costs

Bas Horneman said:

And would you EF say a 100 of these waveguides? What would it cost?


dunno... until I try a few and see how they turn out. But they won't cost $200, that's for sure. Once I get a mandrel and the initial one to meet whatever specs are needed, copies would be trivial.

Unfortunately, I have a real job managing my wife's medical practice, making real money, so this will have to be at the "hobby" level.

John L.
 

Attachments

  • image_horns.jpg
    image_horns.jpg
    9.5 KB · Views: 640
gedlee said:
Markus

Looks good. One tip is that many of the fillers shrink even after a day. This has been a real problem for me. If anyone knows of a fast setting filler that doesn't shrink let me know. I have found that wood filler doesn't work as good as body filler. Bondo is a real pain to use, but it sets quickly and shrinkage is predictable.
Clay-like epoxy that you mix together in you hand might work. I think it takes 10 min to harden.
 
gedlee said:
You guys were tourists. Trust me they were charging you for those services. I got to know the place well enough to learn where the really good deals were and they were usually 1/4 - 1/3 of the tourist taylors. Things always look different to tourists.

Yes, Spray 90.
If it's cheaper than what you can get where you live, and they can sell it more for what they can sell for locally, I think it's a good deal both ways. Why cut the profits of others to the bones where they have no room to improve services? Especially to those whom really need the money and are willing to work for it?
 
gedlee said:

John VanOmmen (Bateman?) has posted quite a bit about his impressions of his Summas. No one else seems to be willing to withstand the trials of posting on forums.

OK here goes, let the trials begin. :judge: :smash: :flame::witch::flame:
Since hearing the Summa's I have been following these threads every day; quietly and anxiously awaiting the introduction and review of the Abbey's. I would love to have the Summa's, but I think the Abbey's +multiple subs may be the price\performance sweet spot I go for.

I am not an expreienced speaker designer, but I am an experienced carpenter with some experience in cabinet building (plus a musician and producer). Thats what led me here in the first place, and what makes Earls kit so attractive to me. I can build a sturdy box myself. I can sand, fill, veneer, paint etc. so why not put these skills and tools to good use and build some speakers I otherwise couldn't afford. Now I have the opportunity to have cutting edge engineering go into those speakers. Instead of trying to buy some drivers and design a crossover myself with no guarantee of anything that sounds good.

I wouldn't care if these speakers were flat black and held together with duct tape, I would still have them in my recording studio because they kill every studio monitor I have ever heard.

The fact that Earls design looks aesthetically pleasing when properly finished, as seen in his pics, is just icing on the cake to me. (though it did help with convincing my wife we need these):)
 
Thanks, but I think the point was to find someone who has a pair of Summas at their own home, not mine. This is a valid point and I will say with certainty that the room makes a big difference. I have had my speakers in lots of different rooms and they always sound good, but never as good as they sound in my listening room. Too often people forget this fact, proably because they feel that they can't change the room, it is what it is. But there is no doubt that not making the room ideal as a listening space is doing the job only half way. (Well maybe more than half, but you get the picture).

And I've also had a lot of diferent speakers in this same room and none sounded as good as the Summas.

Its a sum situation, everything adds up (or more like all problems degrade). The room makes a difference, the speakers make a difference and everything else pales by comparison.
 
soongsc said:

Clay-like epoxy that you mix together in you hand might work. I think it takes 10 min to harden.


Don't do it. Epoxy clay ("knead it" as usually known) is so much harder than MDF that uniform sanding of the joint afterwards will be nearly impossible.
What I have also found is that edges of MDF primed with thinned epoxy (or even ordinaty cyanoacrillate "superglue") become much easier to sand to superfine finish, and much more stable to boot. Without some deep priming it is nearly impossible to avoid print-through (edges showing through the paint later), especially with gloss finishes.
 
Bratislav said:



Don't do it. Epoxy clay ("knead it" as usually known) is so much harder than MDF that uniform sanding of the joint afterwards will be nearly impossible.
What I have also found is that edges of MDF primed with thinned epoxy (or even ordinaty cyanoacrillate "superglue") become much easier to sand to superfine finish, and much more stable to boot. Without some deep priming it is nearly impossible to avoid print-through (edges showing through the paint later), especially with gloss finishes.
Epoxy clay would be for filling holes after you have done all the sanding. It's much easier to scape the access amount off before it dries. Also good for filling holes in the wave guide as necessary. If you want to fill up the joints, I would not recommend it either because of the way joints may expand.
 
Re: costs

auplater said:



dunno... until I try a few and see how they turn out. But they won't cost $200, that's for sure. Once I get a mandrel and the initial one to meet whatever specs are needed, copies would be trivial.

Unfortunately, I have a real job managing my wife's medical practice, making real money, so this will have to be at the "hobby" level.

John L.
Would you say cost would be proportional to the volume of material? At what kind of volume/time rate can they build up?
 
gedlee said:
You guys were tourists. Trust me they were charging you for those services. I got to know the place well enough to learn where the really good deals were and they were usually 1/4 - 1/3 of the tourist taylors. Things always look different to tourists.

Yes, Spray 90.

That's funny, because you were saying that they responded to requests for refunds with "You want what?!?" - if you were getting such a 'really good deal', why would you be asking for a refund in the first place? In the end, you almost always get what you pay for, no matter what country you're in...i think that expression has translations in every language :)
 
Re: Re: costs

soongsc said:

Would you say cost would be proportional to the volume of material? At what kind of volume/time rate can they build up?

Deposition rates can be up to 10 mils/hr.... but I'll run slower than that as there's no rush. Might even try a nickel/copper composite structure... cost is more in the technology and effort than materials... after the amortiztion of the equipment/facility... which NASA/JPL already paid for...:devilr:

John L.
 
gedlee said:
Thanks, but I think the point was to find someone who has a pair of Summas at their own home, not mine. This is a valid point and I will say with certainty that the room makes a big difference. I have had my speakers in lots of different rooms and they always sound good, but never as good as they sound in my listening room. Too often people forget this fact, proably because they feel that they can't change the room, it is what it is. But there is no doubt that not making the room ideal as a listening space is doing the job only half way. (Well maybe more than half, but you get the picture).


How have you treated your room? Do you aim more for a LEDE approach or closer to non-environment? Or nothing like either?
 
gedlee said:
Thanks, but I think the point was to find someone who has a pair of Summas at their own home, not mine. This is a valid point and I will say with certainty that the room makes a big difference. I have had my speakers in lots of different rooms and they always sound good, but never as good as they sound in my listening room. Too often people forget this fact, proably because they feel that they can't change the room, it is what it is. But there is no doubt that not making the room ideal as a listening space is doing the job only half way. (Well maybe more than half, but you get the picture).

And I've also had a lot of diferent speakers in this same room and none sounded as good as the Summas.

Its a sum situation, everything adds up (or more like all problems degrade). The room makes a difference, the speakers make a difference and everything else pales by comparison.


Yes your room is amazing. I need to get your home theater book and see where I can improve mine. I did notice, the more bass traps I installed the better my room modes measured, but nowhere as good as yours. I have 2-15's I was going to add my existing 2x15" IB but after hearing your room I am rethinking this. At the very least I will put them in-wall in a different location to try and average\randomize the modes.

sorry for the OT.
Bass nirvana through multiple subs would be a nice thread if you would agree to it. I know you don't really want to make\sell subs and the placement and number is more important than the box or alignment.
 
Re: Re: Re: costs

auplater said:


Deposition rates can be up to 10 mils/hr.... but I'll run slower than that as there's no rush. Might even try a nickel/copper composite structure... cost is more in the technology and effort than materials... after the amortiztion of the equipment/facility... which NASA/JPL already paid for...:devilr:

John L.
At that rate, how do you figure you can do the wave guides for less than US$200?
 
Status
This old topic is closed. If you want to reopen this topic, contact a moderator using the "Report Post" button.