Peter Daniel said:
O.K. I read the set up on pages 9 & 10 and left a green check mark by EAC,CDRDAO,FLAC,AccurateRip. I guess this will be ok, as I am not familiar with these options. Anyhow, upon further reading pg.11 and so forth, this manual is saying to download a few other things like Foobar2000, Kernal Streaming (KS) and ASIO components, etc, etc. My question is: Are all these downloads necessary?
Thanks
Peter Daniel said:Those other downloads are only needed if you wish to play music through your computer, otherwise not needed.
OK, so you are saying just use the EAC program to rip and burn music?
If so, what speed do you recommend I use to burn music using the MOBILE FIDELITY - ULTRADISC 24K GOLD CD-R ?
Thanks again!
Peter Daniel said:Yes; use the slowest speed that can be set on your burner.
Alrighty then! I guess I will order the disc's from http://www.musicdirect.com/product/73904 and have to wait for them to get here Once I get them, I'll give you some feedback if you would like! Thanks again!!!
Taiyo Yuden CD-Rs
Taiyo Yuden -- supposedly the originator of the CD-R format and the largest manuf. of the media (others, like Verbatim, etc use them as OEM) -- puts out blank optical discs that are inexpensive, well made, sample-to-sample consistent and are the overall favorite of users on CDFreaks.com and similar forums. Search these sites for Nero/CDSpeed-based tests -- done by a lot of the "geeks" who have burned 1000s of discs for us. The culmination of their results are statistically significant. The winner is Taiyo Yuden.
As far as burners ... again see reviews and forum messages at CDFreaks, CDRInfo, etc. E.g., Benq or Philips are good bets, they are not $$, and will burn DVDs, too. Use EAC for ripping, and good burn software (Nero, etc.).
Also see the recent, topically-related thread Burned CD-R copy vs. original (commercially-pressed) CD on diyhifi.org
I agree with the skepticism about MoFi.FWIW I would be very suspicious of the marketing clap-trap on the MOFI site. Last time I checked they were not manufacturing their own media, and this all sounds suspiciously like marketing techno-babble IMHO. How on earth do you measure the jitter on a blank CD-R - presumably one must first record on it, and then measure the BLER of the recorded media having done so, but this is not clearly spelled out. I suspect any reputable media manufacturer already has rigorous QC procedures in place and this is just adding unnecessary steps and expense to the product if true as stated.
Taiyo Yuden -- supposedly the originator of the CD-R format and the largest manuf. of the media (others, like Verbatim, etc use them as OEM) -- puts out blank optical discs that are inexpensive, well made, sample-to-sample consistent and are the overall favorite of users on CDFreaks.com and similar forums. Search these sites for Nero/CDSpeed-based tests -- done by a lot of the "geeks" who have burned 1000s of discs for us. The culmination of their results are statistically significant. The winner is Taiyo Yuden.
As far as burners ... again see reviews and forum messages at CDFreaks, CDRInfo, etc. E.g., Benq or Philips are good bets, they are not $$, and will burn DVDs, too. Use EAC for ripping, and good burn software (Nero, etc.).
Also see the recent, topically-related thread Burned CD-R copy vs. original (commercially-pressed) CD on diyhifi.org
OK, Now I am slightly confussed So, let me see if what I have gathered here is correct! I use the EAC to rip the music, then I must use another program like Nero to burn the music? I thought that the EAC did both! I have SB Audigy for burning, but I don't know if it would do the same job as Nero
Some years ago while trying different discs and writers (yamaha writer sounded best then) we also found that demagnetising of CDR discs with a Bedini unit or similar made a very big difference, far greater then on regular CDs and easily as big as beteen different blank brands. We treated b4 and after writing. I assume that the dye contains more "magneitc" particles then the artwork print on regular CDs...
tubenut said:Some years ago while trying different discs and writers (yamaha writer sounded best then) we also found that demagnetising of CDR discs with a Bedini unit or similar made a very big difference, far greater then on regular CDs and easily as big as beteen different blank brands. We treated b4 and after writing. I assume that the dye contains more "magneitc" particles then the artwork print on regular CDs...
I have the Bedini Ultra Clarifier. So, Are you saying to run a disc on the clarifier before and after burning?
EAC rips audio CD to WAV files. It can also burn audio CD from WAV files.FSHZ:42 said:OK, Now I am slightly confussed So, let me see if what I have gathered here is correct! I use the EAC to rip the music, then I must use another program like Nero to burn the music? I thought that the EAC did both! I have SB Audigy for burning, but I don't know if it would do the same job as Nero
You guys are all deranged.
Learn to play a musical instrument and STOP THINKING SO MUCH, it's making you ill.
You can get a lot of pleasure from music if you just focus a little less on the reproduction (which is closer to perfection than has ever been the case previously) and more on the content.
All this stuff you're coming out with is just some kind of ANTI-MUSIC, which erodes rather than elevates the spirit.
For your own sake get a grip on yourselves.
w
Learn to play a musical instrument and STOP THINKING SO MUCH, it's making you ill.
You can get a lot of pleasure from music if you just focus a little less on the reproduction (which is closer to perfection than has ever been the case previously) and more on the content.
All this stuff you're coming out with is just some kind of ANTI-MUSIC, which erodes rather than elevates the spirit.
For your own sake get a grip on yourselves.
w
Yeah, get a grip (on yourself): http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9jGqx3sqq-4
wakibaki said:You guys are all deranged.
Learn to play a musical instrument and STOP THINKING SO MUCH, it's making you ill.
<snip>
For your own sake get a grip on yourselves.
w
Agreed, and that is despite the fact that I count myself amongst the deranged..
Peter, that is too funny!
The CD format is a wonderous thing, it hides and even corrects loss of data which usually happens on each play and on practically all discs . For obvious reasons manufacturers don't do it but if all players came with an LED or counter indicating loss of data I think this discussion on best media and speed would be a lot different.
Cheers
Cheers
fredex said:The CD format is a wonderous thing, it hides and even corrects loss of data which usually happens on each play and on practically all discs . For obvious reasons manufacturers don't do it but if all players came with an LED or counter indicating loss of data I think this discussion on best media and speed would be a lot different.
Cheers
Yeah such a LED would be useful. I fitted one on my ancient DAC using the CS8412 error output (but it didn't report all errors). Anyway I only use playback from harddisk these days.
I think this thread misses the point. If the bits recovered from two CDs are identical, and they sound different, then your system is broken.
wakibaki said:
For your own sake get a grip on yourselves.
w
Or get married
Best Regards,
TerryO
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