Nigel refer to my first comment.
I can resolder the DC adapter.
My laptop's jack was connected to the motherboard. Every thing in it's radious is caked in carbon, I will have pictures soon.
I removed the jack, but in order to put another in, well I am not sure if it would work. I have zero sound as of now. I did have sound from the on board speakers.... However for what ever reason after removing the jack it is no longer working. Well the jack practicly fell off, it was hanging on by just a few little leads, sort of leads, that sort of survived.
I can resolder the DC adapter.
My laptop's jack was connected to the motherboard. Every thing in it's radious is caked in carbon, I will have pictures soon.
I removed the jack, but in order to put another in, well I am not sure if it would work. I have zero sound as of now. I did have sound from the on board speakers.... However for what ever reason after removing the jack it is no longer working. Well the jack practicly fell off, it was hanging on by just a few little leads, sort of leads, that sort of survived.
Yeah you'll have to do little repair on the copper. For right now. it is safe to clean things up with some alcohol (ethanol). Then you can see things better. The audio jack probably had switch contacts that disconnect your internal speakers when you plug in externals... right? When you remove the jack; that opens the speaker circuits. The ground copper is probably broken around the jack as well... maybe why your fan quit?
Is your buddy steaming mad about his monitor? Can he work without for awhile until you cover your butt on the laptop?
Is your buddy steaming mad about his monitor? Can he work without for awhile until you cover your butt on the laptop?
The reason your internal speakers stopped working is because the jack is designed with two small "switches" that carry the sound through to the speakers when nothing is plugged in. When you plug something in the "switches" break the circuit, and the speakers go silent.
Removing the jack is equivalent to permanently breaking the circuit. This can be fixed with two jumpers, if you want to.
Rune
Removing the jack is equivalent to permanently breaking the circuit. This can be fixed with two jumpers, if you want to.
Rune
I had guessed that was what the deal with the jack was, but I had no way at all to tell because the back of the jack is so obliterated you could never tell what was there before.
I will find out if I can fix my friends monitor. If I can not then I will give him $500 if he wants it. He is the type of guy to possibly not care at all. He just had a bike that cost him $100 but worth a good $500 or bit more stolen, and it was some one else's fault, he just said it sucks.
I have no cleaning alcohol.
My fan started working again, I took the heatsink off so I could get access to the audio jack and I think there was just some chunks or some thing that stopped it, but they got rattled loose so it runs now.
I am not so sure the audio jack, a new one, can be hand soldered in. They are very tiny leads. I think my money might be better spent on a HagUSB kit. I have to check if it runs on I2S or I will not want to bother. I plan to build a DAC this summer if I get a job, as of right now I have no money, I will have to borrow for a HagUSB or new jack.
I will find out if I can fix my friends monitor. If I can not then I will give him $500 if he wants it. He is the type of guy to possibly not care at all. He just had a bike that cost him $100 but worth a good $500 or bit more stolen, and it was some one else's fault, he just said it sucks.
I have no cleaning alcohol.
My fan started working again, I took the heatsink off so I could get access to the audio jack and I think there was just some chunks or some thing that stopped it, but they got rattled loose so it runs now.
I am not so sure the audio jack, a new one, can be hand soldered in. They are very tiny leads. I think my money might be better spent on a HagUSB kit. I have to check if it runs on I2S or I will not want to bother. I plan to build a DAC this summer if I get a job, as of right now I have no money, I will have to borrow for a HagUSB or new jack.
The jack will set you back about 3 dollars... the trick will be finding the right one... but pictures will help... and someone here will probably reckognize the brand.
Be sure you cut away any lose little strands of copper before you re-assemble your laptop... you don't want anything in there to short out.
Your at a college... someone can find some "denatured alcohol"!
(think chemistry)
Otherwise use a dry tooth brush and clean of what you can for now.
Really... start a new thread "help fix my lap top" or whatever... you'll get more attention. There are probably guys here that build 'em!
Be sure you cut away any lose little strands of copper before you re-assemble your laptop... you don't want anything in there to short out.
Your at a college... someone can find some "denatured alcohol"!
(think chemistry)
Otherwise use a dry tooth brush and clean of what you can for now.
Really... start a new thread "help fix my lap top" or whatever... you'll get more attention. There are probably guys here that build 'em!
I would have to agree with Nigel Goodwin with what happened.
I just tested my external Hard drive and it's completly isolated from the mains, but my LCD has a perfect earth to the socket.
If a diode in the monitors SMPS shorted (mains diode) it would kill the fuse. If one of the diodes in the secondsry when the power supply will current limit and make a squealing sound or a tick tick tick sound. I have never seen a diode be used as a grounding device.
But hey at least your not like the stupid customers I get who bring in device that have a good chunk of tin foil ove the fuse.
But hey electronics can be replaced YOU can't, thank goodness you weren't hurt or killed.
I just tested my external Hard drive and it's completly isolated from the mains, but my LCD has a perfect earth to the socket.
If a diode in the monitors SMPS shorted (mains diode) it would kill the fuse. If one of the diodes in the secondsry when the power supply will current limit and make a squealing sound or a tick tick tick sound. I have never seen a diode be used as a grounding device.
But hey at least your not like the stupid customers I get who bring in device that have a good chunk of tin foil ove the fuse.
But hey electronics can be replaced YOU can't, thank goodness you weren't hurt or killed.
In Europe we have earth-leakage circuit breakers, for example, in Spain they have been mandatory by law for the past two decades. I have accidentally shorted a 230V AC phase to earth many times in buildings with these circuit breakers installed, and there were never explosions, or anything melt or ever darkened or damaged. They act very quicly, breaking the circuit within a few mains cycles when some current is flowing from phase to any other place than neutral wire.
Also, they are available in different sensitivity levels, the most common ones are rated for 3mA, and the 0.3mA ones (highest sensitivity and most expensive) are likely to trip before you even feel anything if you ever close the circuit to earth with your body, altrough it's also quite easy to trip them due to earth leakage currents in normal appliances (I think they are used for medical applications only).
BTW: Ask your university to install earth-leakage circuit breakers, they make any mains installation much safer, and they would have prevented any damage to your appliances.
Also, they are available in different sensitivity levels, the most common ones are rated for 3mA, and the 0.3mA ones (highest sensitivity and most expensive) are likely to trip before you even feel anything if you ever close the circuit to earth with your body, altrough it's also quite easy to trip them due to earth leakage currents in normal appliances (I think they are used for medical applications only).
BTW: Ask your university to install earth-leakage circuit breakers, they make any mains installation much safer, and they would have prevented any damage to your appliances.
Arc fault interrupters are not the same as a GFI or GFCI, they are designed to sense transient arcing from hot to neutral or hot to ground. I am not sure how they do this exactly, it may be that they look for a certain type of waveform rich in high frequency harmonics to appear on the line they are sensing. They don't sense leakage current at all. They seem to be very susceptible to RFI, and other line disturbances. I had a cordless phone plugged into an outlet protected by an AFI and every time it rang the interuptor would trip. Very annoying!
They recently changed the code here to allow the removal of the AFI if nuisance tripping reached a certain level - ours did and it was replaced with a conventional breaker.
IMHO these ought to be used where there is a high level of traffic and frayed extension cords are possible.
Some work needs to be done to make them more reliable, and a lot less expensive.
They recently changed the code here to allow the removal of the AFI if nuisance tripping reached a certain level - ours did and it was replaced with a conventional breaker.
IMHO these ought to be used where there is a high level of traffic and frayed extension cords are possible.
Some work needs to be done to make them more reliable, and a lot less expensive.
Eva said:
You mean 30mA and 300mA. 30mA is about the smallest you can get away with on any circuit with a transformer on it, and 300mA is usually only used on high power 3 phase machinery. UK regs strongly recommend the use of a split system with an RCD for all wall outlets and are compulsory for equipment in wet areas, but with lights and suchlike on a non RCD or separate breaker so the lights don't go out when the main one trips.
For individual socket spurs, they should be rated at 30mA in a domestic situation but, but if the RCD is in the main panel and provides power to several socket spurs, it can be upgraded to 100mA maximum.
I won't get into the different types of RCD you can get with different breaking speeds etc, that gets far too complicated.
Part of Chassis
Heatsink solid copper
The jack itself
Where the jack was attached to mobo
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Heatsink solid copper
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
The jack itself
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Where the jack was attached to mobo
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
- Status
- This old topic is closed. If you want to reopen this topic, contact a moderator using the "Report Post" button.