FE206E cabinet
The cabinet I used can be found on the Fostex site under recommended backloaded enclosure for FE206E.I think you're right about the watts required.I can email you the plans for the cabinets I built if you need them.Email me at kevinl@maple.ca if you want them.
The cabinet I used can be found on the Fostex site under recommended backloaded enclosure for FE206E.I think you're right about the watts required.I can email you the plans for the cabinets I built if you need them.Email me at kevinl@maple.ca if you want them.
weidok said:
Some people use FE167Es in horns (high-end ones at that) to very good effect. see:
http://www.decware.com/newsite/cornerhorn.htm
The FE166E is usually recommended though as it is pretty much the same speaker with a larger magnet, instead of a being shielded.
Horns like high Fs/Qts ratios.
Robert
Yes... actually the owner doesn´t specify if the driver is a fullrange or not. But I´m quit sure the it is.
He used a Ribbon tweeter for the higher frequencies and twelve drivers. It´s quite strange, but seems interesting...
Don´t you know?
http://www.mrweb.com.br/fvm/
SPEAKERS -> L.A. Fidelity
It´s in portuguese, sorry guys...
MEX
He used a Ribbon tweeter for the higher frequencies and twelve drivers. It´s quite strange, but seems interesting...
Don´t you know?
http://www.mrweb.com.br/fvm/
SPEAKERS -> L.A. Fidelity
It´s in portuguese, sorry guys...
MEX
Hey Guijs,
how's your project doing?
I think we're on the same project. I'm building the Fostex recommended enclosure for the FE108EZ.
Started last weekend and had like 1-2 hours per day this week for glueing things together...pretty much straight forward. One Speaker is almost done (like 7 to 8 hrs work). Will hopefully finish by the end of next week.
The fun part is, you can put it together without really checking if everything is in the right place (like right distance from each other...), because only two parts (5, 22) are not connected to any other parts which would hold them in place.
I started with the exponetial part in the middle, then with the lower part and finally the part where the driver is mounted.
I'm building it with 16mm MFD, which i will be sealing off before finally putting the three parts in the enclosure. The sealant makes the MFD really hard and almost shiny if you soak it well. I'm really looking forward to do the paintjob on such a surface.
I use waterproof glue, because the sealant is water-based (I don't like the smelly stuff plus the water-based stuff can dry in the apartement).
I decided to do the sealing after the glueing-stuff, because the plain wood can soak more glue that way; makes stronger bonds.
Hopefully I can post some picture this weekend.
Have Fun,
Dave
how's your project doing?
I think we're on the same project. I'm building the Fostex recommended enclosure for the FE108EZ.
Started last weekend and had like 1-2 hours per day this week for glueing things together...pretty much straight forward. One Speaker is almost done (like 7 to 8 hrs work). Will hopefully finish by the end of next week.
The fun part is, you can put it together without really checking if everything is in the right place (like right distance from each other...), because only two parts (5, 22) are not connected to any other parts which would hold them in place.
I started with the exponetial part in the middle, then with the lower part and finally the part where the driver is mounted.
I'm building it with 16mm MFD, which i will be sealing off before finally putting the three parts in the enclosure. The sealant makes the MFD really hard and almost shiny if you soak it well. I'm really looking forward to do the paintjob on such a surface.
I use waterproof glue, because the sealant is water-based (I don't like the smelly stuff plus the water-based stuff can dry in the apartement).
I decided to do the sealing after the glueing-stuff, because the plain wood can soak more glue that way; makes stronger bonds.
Hopefully I can post some picture this weekend.
Have Fun,
Dave
Hello RodeoDave!
I'll start to build the enclosures tomorow, on the weekend. I've made a CAD drawing of the pieces and cut it with a laser machine! So the pieces are exactly perfect and you can do some rabbets like puzzle. I'll post some pictures on the sunday.
I'm using 15mm Naval Plywood, like the plan recomends. It will be very easy to build.
About your amplifier, the only thing I know is that you can use a 4ohms amplifier with a 8ohm driver, no problem. The amplifier will send half the power to the speaker.
I'll use a Pioneer receiver just to break-in the speakers, and after this i'll start to test some tube-amplifiers!
Good Luck
Guilherme
I'll start to build the enclosures tomorow, on the weekend. I've made a CAD drawing of the pieces and cut it with a laser machine! So the pieces are exactly perfect and you can do some rabbets like puzzle. I'll post some pictures on the sunday.
I'm using 15mm Naval Plywood, like the plan recomends. It will be very easy to build.
About your amplifier, the only thing I know is that you can use a 4ohms amplifier with a 8ohm driver, no problem. The amplifier will send half the power to the speaker.
I'll use a Pioneer receiver just to break-in the speakers, and after this i'll start to test some tube-amplifiers!
Good Luck
Guilherme
We usually clear as much space as possiblt to enable airflow from the back of the driver... usually a 45 degree angle... my newest ones thou -- with a 1/2" baffle & rebated to flush mount the driver didn't need it.
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?postid=731378#post731378
dave
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?postid=731378#post731378
dave
Here are some pictures of the construction!
Last 2 pictures is just an improvisation! I'll make a better fisinh on the wood later, and i'm preparing the shelf to receive the loudspeakers.
Embalando pra terminar em casa...
Last 2 pictures is just an improvisation! I'll make a better fisinh on the wood later, and i'm preparing the shelf to receive the loudspeakers.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Embalando pra terminar em casa...
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
WOW! Nice work!
Didn't know that plywood can be laser-cut...impressive.
A few questions:
The cavity below the driver will be filled with sand, right?
What damping material did you use? Looks like some kind of foam-thingy...
I can see that you are using the original parts (#29) to fill the compression-chamber. Are there spaces between them so that they fit the 170mm? I'm thinking about using two 170mm wide pieces instead. But I'm not sure yet...
What do they sound like?
Didn't know that plywood can be laser-cut...impressive.
A few questions:
The cavity below the driver will be filled with sand, right?
What damping material did you use? Looks like some kind of foam-thingy...
I can see that you are using the original parts (#29) to fill the compression-chamber. Are there spaces between them so that they fit the 170mm? I'm thinking about using two 170mm wide pieces instead. But I'm not sure yet...
What do they sound like?
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