BA-3 As Preamp

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Finally finished the BA-3FE. What a phenomenal preamp! Wow!

Just wanted to thank everyone in this community for their help. Of course Nelson Pass for this awesome circuit, Jim for the build guide, Salas for all his help with the power supplies, and Marra for the clear pictures I used often as a reference (our preamps are essentially the same).

I started a thread about a year ago asking if I should build a BA-3FE or rebuild the B1 with better parts. The BA3-FE kinda of blows the B1 in the weeds. I'm using the preamp between a Pearl II and F5.

Also, in the meantime I bought (yes I admit it) an all tube preamp that I really love. I've only listened to a few albums so far but the BA-3FE is at least as good as the tube preamp. I haven't really done AB comparisons but the funny thing is I'm hearing more similarities than differences.

Another thing, the BA-3FE doesn't have nearly as much gain as I thought. I find it hard to believe it would drive an F4 in my system.

Again, Thank You

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Nice build!
 
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I used a 25K (24 step audio taper) attenuator in my build. I think that's the wrong value because I get to unity gain around step 13.

But while testing, putting 1V p-p in, I get 6V p-p out, or ~15db This happens at step 22. At step 23 and 24 the wave starts to clip and voltage goes down.

I wish I could tell you what the resistance is at those steps but I'll need to take the attenuator out of the circuit. Gold point has charts on their website, but I can't make head or tails of it.

I used a 25K 24 step attenuator off ebay and I have plenty of gain. I think 6L6's build used a Goldpoint, I think his was 50K. Hikari1 used the same pot I did, many suggested 10k, but I didnt think this affected gain? I'm wrong all the time though! :D:D:D

Russellc
 
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OK here's another thing I just discovered. When I turn it on (cold) and with the attenuator all the way up, putting 1V in I get 10V out. As it warms up (maybe 10 minutes) the wave begins to clip and voltage slowly drops to 6V. I tried messing with P3, no change.
 
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I used a 25K 24 step attenuator off ebay and I have plenty of gain. I think 6L6's build used a Goldpoint, I think his was 50K. Hikari1 used the same pot I did, many suggested 10k, but I didnt think this affected gain? I'm wrong all the time though! :D:D:D

Russellc

I think I have two separate problems:

1) I don't have enough useable steps in my attenuator.

2) The problem with the gain and it varying.


I have plenty of gain to drive an F5 in my system, but wouldn't have enough to drive an F4, which is my goal.
 
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Kevin:

What's your DC offset (before the output cap) when it's warm and the output goes down?

It may be that the offset is zero when cold, zero offset let's it swing more volts and the offset is drifting as it warms up..which reduces the output swing.

It wire some probes up so you can watch the bias and offset as it warms up. Mine is unstable at best and putting on the cover or temp changes really effects the offset. The output cap will block the DC but to get the most voltage swing you need low offset.

That being said, you would have to have a pretty dramatic imbalance to lose that much output. So, if you are say under a volt of offset when warm this is probably not the issue.
 
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Kevin:

What's your DC offset (before the output cap) when it's warm and the output goes down?

It may be that the offset is zero when cold, zero offset let's it swing more volts and the offset is drifting as it warms up..which reduces the output swing.

It wire some probes up so you can watch the bias and offset as it warms up. Mine is unstable at best and putting on the cover or temp changes really effects the offset. The output cap will block the DC but to get the most voltage swing you need low offset.

That being said, you would have to have a pretty dramatic imbalance to lose that much output. So, if you are say under a volt of offset when warm this is probably not the issue.

That's a good one. When I test the bias and DC offset it's stable. I left the probe on R13 while putting a signal on the input and DC offset swings with the attenuator from 0V at step 1 to 17V at step 24.
 
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The advertised gain is 30db

That is ~32 times gain. If it can swing rail to rail and using +/-24V PSU that's a 48V pk-pk limit. 48V/2.83=17VRMS. VoRMSmax/Gain(X)=max input RMS signal to preamp before the output clips, i.e. 17/32=0.53VRMS. Can your warmed up preamp make good looking output sinewave with about 0.5VRMS (1.4Vpk-pk) input signal (after the pot)? If yes, your build is in spec. If not, its to debug. (I know nothing about BA-3 practice but those relations are the general basics). :)
 
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I bypassed the attenuator altogether. When I put in 1Vp-p in I get 10Vp-p out (gain of 20dB). If I put much more than 1V in the wave starts to clip. So starting cold I get a clean wave and 0V offset. As time goes by I can watch offset slowly rise(0-16V over ten minutes), the wave clip, and voltage go down.