ok, sounds good.
so on to the next question: i intend to power the B1 with batteries. I thought about 2x9V batteries. Now i read that the rechargeable 9V batteries only supply 8,4V. So two of those would add up to 16,8V instead of the recommended minimum of 18V. Is that likely to cause any problems?
so on to the next question: i intend to power the B1 with batteries. I thought about 2x9V batteries. Now i read that the rechargeable 9V batteries only supply 8,4V. So two of those would add up to 16,8V instead of the recommended minimum of 18V. Is that likely to cause any problems?
Pass DIY Addict
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I use 3x 9v batteries , good for around 80 hours , with AC I go with regulator 24/30vdc max
i thought the opposite was the case and people value batteries in hifi for steady supply and low noise
I find, and I think I have heard Zenmod also say?, the M2 comes alive with a little gain. Even with my higher efficiency speakers, >100 dB, this is true, and to a greater degree with lesser efficient speakers.
That said, it will sound great within its gain limitations and your listening preferences, room size, etc.
Russellc
I tried batteries, laptop power supply, and as you know, there same regulated power supply you used in this build thread.
I couldn't tell a great deal of difference between the batteries (2 x 9 volt) and the laptop supply. The simple regulated supply you outline in build thread beat them both by a noticeable amount (imho) across the board.
The commercial B1 used a wall wart if I recall without problems.
Russellc
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Finally my B1 is up and sounding fantastic! A perfect match for M2 and horn speakers (102dB).
50VA transformer, Salas BiB (19V), B1 PCB from passdiy, chassi from modushop.biz
The inside image just lacking cables from the regulator. Front with a not blue led .
50VA transformer, Salas BiB (19V), B1 PCB from passdiy, chassi from modushop.biz
The inside image just lacking cables from the regulator. Front with a not blue led
.Attachments
Hi all,
I was checking some Toshiba 74bl and 170bl following this post, so using a 100r.
I noticed that the voltage reading on the DMM tend to show the value I was expecting for few seconds, then the value tend to drop a bit, So I took them off, just afraid of destroying them.
Is that safe for the fets to stay few seconds powered up in this configuration ?
How to interpret the voltage deviation?
Thank in advance!
I'd like to squeeze my B1 into a very low enclosure with only 40mm internal height. I think the only part that could be hard to fit are the power supply caps C1 and C2. The manual says to use caps rated at 25v 1000uF to 15000 uF. Will it make any difference if I use ones closer to 15000 or closer to 1000?
I'm massively overwhelmed with the variety of caps out there. Can someone point me in the right direction of which ones would be suited?
I'm massively overwhelmed with the variety of caps out there. Can someone point me in the right direction of which ones would be suited?
Finally my B1 is up and sounding fantastic! A perfect match for M2 and horn speakers (102dB).
50VA transformer, Salas BiB (19V), B1 PCB from passdiy, chassi from modushop.biz
The inside image just lacking cables from the regulator. Front with a not blue led
Hello Sov
Congratulations nice B1 build!
M2 amp first stage is a similar impedance jfet buffer but without volume knob.
Now with 102dB horns all you need is audio source with out signal = 2V,
stepped attenuator, autoformer volume control, light depended VC , or potentiometer etc.
and connect this directly to M2.
I know it's work great after my personnal successful experience with M2.
Maybe experiment a little and You decide if is useful to keep B1 in the audio chain with M2 ?
