B1 preamp build thread

sov

Member
Joined 2016
Paid Member
Hi Soundhappy. The thought had crossed my mind. Just put a stepped attenuator in the M2, but I was concerned about interference on the tiny cables going roundabout. What are the tiny cables doing when You close the lid, no one knows. Perhaps I replace B1 for a Soekris DAC with a pot or a B1 Korg triod. Then there's only the postamplifier :) left to build and the chain is complete.
 

sov

Member
Joined 2016
Paid Member
I'm no expert on caps. Surely there is the hunt of the perfect one. I don't believe thoose caps effect the sound. If You use an external switching supply, use the 15kuF. If You use a good regulator perhaps You can skip them.

Higher voltage rating or temp rating expans life. Lots of nice reading to do :)
 
Last edited:

sov

Member
Joined 2016
Paid Member
Last edited:
Member
Joined 2016
Paid Member
I'd like to squeeze my B1 into a very low enclosure with only 40mm internal height. I think the only part that could be hard to fit are the power supply caps C1 and C2. The manual says to use caps rated at 25v 1000uF to 15000 uF. Will it make any difference if I use ones closer to 15000 or closer to 1000?

I'm massively overwhelmed with the variety of caps out there. Can someone point me in the right direction of which ones would be suited?

Hi Maxi,
I wanted a low height enclosure as well so I used the Galaxy 1U enclosure from the DiyStore which also has an internal height of 40mm. I bought these caps from Mouser 647-LLS1E153MELB (which are snap in) because they were shallow enough to fit into the enclosure. When I went to install them they were too wide to fit side by side on the board with the lead spacing on the B1 board, so I soldered wire leads on to the caps and viola! The caps sit within 1mm of the top lid, using 1/8” nylon standoff’s to mount the board. As others have suggested you can lay the caps on their sides to keep the internal height of the components down. I hadn’t posted any build pics yet because I’m still deciding on a knob for the rotary input selector that I installed. But here’s what it looks like 99% done.
 

Attachments

  • 2DCA259F-1799-4D78-8340-C19A0B396404.jpg
    2DCA259F-1799-4D78-8340-C19A0B396404.jpg
    800.5 KB · Views: 392
Thanks for the detailed description JSA1971. Looks fantastic. When it comes to knobs I think Kilo International definitely has the best looking ones. I'll use them for my project for sure. Build pics would be very much appreciated :D

So now that the power supply caps issue is resolved (many thanks!), let's talk about the other caps :)

It seems that everyone is using "audio grade" caps for C101 and C201 (the 10uF kind) but most people put less emphasis on the C100 and C200 (1uF) caps. All of them are in the signal path, right? so shouldn't all be equally important ("audio grade") ?
 

sov

Member
Joined 2016
Paid Member
Quote from passdiy.com B1:
"C1 and C2 are big electrolytic types, with a nominal rating of 15000 uF at 25 Volts. C100, 200, 101 and 201 are high quality film capacitors. You can use these values or substitute in your favorites."
Interesting facts from wiki.
 

Attachments

  • F1D64FB5-F9D6-40D9-84AE-F4BFDF0C1095.png
    F1D64FB5-F9D6-40D9-84AE-F4BFDF0C1095.png
    78 KB · Views: 357
Last edited: