Ok so before doing the resistor swap I always was running out of phase not knowing it. My CD player auto turns on that way for no reason. It sounded better, fuller. Now however it sounds like a huge lack in imaging etc, and with it in phase it sounds great, lots of imaging, and very real bloomed sound.
I think a high resistance on R3 sounds much better now.
I think a high resistance on R3 sounds much better now.
gainclone
I just finished a gainclone from one of Peter's premium kits and have to say that I'm very happy, and a bit surprised with the sound. For some reason, I didn't think that they would be a great match with my fostex fe108es speakers but was mistaken. In comparison to my charlize amp the gainclone is much fuller with stronger bass, giving an all around more natural, fully balanced sound. This is with less than 2 hours burn in. I tried it with and without a kookaburra preamp and I didn't really notice much of a difference so it has come out.
The gainclone is very similar to a Patek configuration, the only difference being Elna Silmic II 100uf caps on the amp boards bypassed with .01uf Vcaps instead of the blackgates. I would like to try the amp with and without the bypass caps but if I get them off I don't think I'll be able to get them back on.
Can Peter or anyone else comment on how this might affect the sound for better or for worse.
Thanks Peter for the great project and the help along the way!
I just finished a gainclone from one of Peter's premium kits and have to say that I'm very happy, and a bit surprised with the sound. For some reason, I didn't think that they would be a great match with my fostex fe108es speakers but was mistaken. In comparison to my charlize amp the gainclone is much fuller with stronger bass, giving an all around more natural, fully balanced sound. This is with less than 2 hours burn in. I tried it with and without a kookaburra preamp and I didn't really notice much of a difference so it has come out.
The gainclone is very similar to a Patek configuration, the only difference being Elna Silmic II 100uf caps on the amp boards bypassed with .01uf Vcaps instead of the blackgates. I would like to try the amp with and without the bypass caps but if I get them off I don't think I'll be able to get them back on.
Can Peter or anyone else comment on how this might affect the sound for better or for worse.Thanks Peter for the great project and the help along the way!
I ususally don't like additional bypass caps as they always mess up something, but V-Caps are very good and it this particular case they might bring improvement. BTW, thanks for your comments.
The package has been shipped on Oct 17, tracking# CX23 9312 163C A which can be also checked on usps.com site. I just called Canada Post and they couldn't find more info, for that package delivery is specified 8 business days which is today, Customs may cause delays though. If you don't receive it tomorrow, let me know and I will start investigation.
Destroyer OS. said:
The package has been shipped on Oct 17, tracking# CX23 9312 163C A which can be also checked on usps.com site. I just called Canada Post and they couldn't find more info, for that package delivery is specified 8 business days which is today, Customs may cause delays though. If you don't receive it tomorrow, let me know and I will start investigation.
Thanks Peter. I will let you know.
I was going back and thinking about some stuff on the GC. The series resistor, do you still prefer without it? Also what would make it a problem to not have? Could you use a capacitor instead for offset voltage (DC) coming in? Did the resistor have something to do with that issue?
Also on the capacitors for the PS board, are the snubbers an option to bypass the main caps or? I have not seen a schematic, just the layout pictures. Do you think with the fullbridge you could get away with some like .01uf bypass (poly film probably use) for improved sound? I experienced improvement with another amplifier once upon a time this way.
I was going back and thinking about some stuff on the GC. The series resistor, do you still prefer without it? Also what would make it a problem to not have? Could you use a capacitor instead for offset voltage (DC) coming in? Did the resistor have something to do with that issue?
Also on the capacitors for the PS board, are the snubbers an option to bypass the main caps or? I have not seen a schematic, just the layout pictures. Do you think with the fullbridge you could get away with some like .01uf bypass (poly film probably use) for improved sound? I experienced improvement with another amplifier once upon a time this way.
Yes, I prefer the amp without input series resistor, it sounds 'cleaner' this way. In most cases omitting it creates no problem. Most sources are taking care of the offset and normally you don't need to install a cap at amp's input. However, if you are unsure about reliability of your source's output or there is certain offset level present (remember, the amp will amplify it by factor of 30, or less, if you installed higher value gain setting resistors), it is neccessary to install input coupling caps: 10uF BG N will work well here.
The snubbers are to compensate for larger filter caps (10,000uF or similar). If you are using caps supplied with a kit, snubbers are not needed. Personally I don't like those snubbers at all, they manipulate the sound to the extend that it becames less natural. The schematic can be found here: http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?postid=1508798#post1508798
The additional caps across the diodes will not improve the sound: the rectifiers are chosen such that additional 'improvement' is not needed. Again, those caps add their own signature to the sound and some people like the effect, but it's not always very natural.
The snubbers are to compensate for larger filter caps (10,000uF or similar). If you are using caps supplied with a kit, snubbers are not needed. Personally I don't like those snubbers at all, they manipulate the sound to the extend that it becames less natural. The schematic can be found here: http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?postid=1508798#post1508798
The additional caps across the diodes will not improve the sound: the rectifiers are chosen such that additional 'improvement' is not needed. Again, those caps add their own signature to the sound and some people like the effect, but it's not always very natural.
Removing the resistor was pretty helpful. It made things more clear, and removed a sort of hazy gritty type sound. It is very detailed to the point I almost want some tubes or Rikens in the line. I bet the DAC will fix it. My CD player is very dry with the polyprolene caps in the path (very transparent but I like a little bit of warmth). I might take apart my Sharp SD-EX111 and harvest my countless BlackGates to do more modifications.... Unless someone has the chip for sale that I could find for the amplifier so it would work again.
No DAC yesterday, so after today if it does not show I will let you know.
No DAC yesterday, so after today if it does not show I will let you know.
destroyer OS
A small cap ( 0.01uF - 1.0uf ) put directly across bigger caps will almost certainly create a tuned circuit consisting of the two capacitances and the inductance of the lead between them that will ring at ultrasonic frequencies. This acts as noise source that is excited by the signal and in my opinion messes up the sound.
Having a small ( snubber ) resistor in series with the smaller cap stops that ringing.
The size the resistor has to be to stop the ringing depends on the size of the small cap for 0.1uF I would use about 0.2ohm and for 1.0uF perhaps 0.1ohm.
But as Peter says - try it and see.
A small cap ( 0.01uF - 1.0uf ) put directly across bigger caps will almost certainly create a tuned circuit consisting of the two capacitances and the inductance of the lead between them that will ring at ultrasonic frequencies. This acts as noise source that is excited by the signal and in my opinion messes up the sound.
Having a small ( snubber ) resistor in series with the smaller cap stops that ringing.
The size the resistor has to be to stop the ringing depends on the size of the small cap for 0.1uF I would use about 0.2ohm and for 1.0uF perhaps 0.1ohm.
But as Peter says - try it and see.
Peter,
My wife is an Ipod freak and for christmas I am considering getting her a Wadia i170 Ipod dock. I plan to allow her to connect her Ipod to our 2 channel system using the i170 but I need a DAC to make this happen. The DAC will feed an input on my Pass X1 preamp. Could you please recommend one of your DAC's. I am not intrested in a kit as I am knee deep in other projects.
My wife is an Ipod freak and for christmas I am considering getting her a Wadia i170 Ipod dock. I plan to allow her to connect her Ipod to our 2 channel system using the i170 but I need a DAC to make this happen. The DAC will feed an input on my Pass X1 preamp. Could you please recommend one of your DAC's. I am not intrested in a kit as I am knee deep in other projects.
I have two DACs, both are basically the same: one features SPDIF input, the other USB. You can check user comments here: http://www.audiocircle.com/circles/index.php?topic=56975.0
Contact me through e-mail for pricing and high res pics.
BTW, I just got Ipod Touch and I like it a lot too
Contact me through e-mail for pricing and high res pics.
BTW, I just got Ipod Touch and I like it a lot too
Hey Peter the resistor in the bag with the IEC socket, is that for connection between negative and earth ground for bleeding off? Also what size wire have you been running between the pads on line (and a switch/no switch).
C10 took me awhile to figure out!
Are the Kiwawe and Dale instead of a Riken and a Caddock the latest in inovation towards this unit?
I can not wait to hear it but am waiting on getting some sort of passive volume control in place....
C10 took me awhile to figure out!
Are the Kiwawe and Dale instead of a Riken and a Caddock the latest in inovation towards this unit?
I can not wait to hear it but am waiting on getting some sort of passive volume control in place....
Destroyer OS. said:
That item is a PCB mount fuse, mount it according to the picture. Send me an e-mail so I will forward to you high res pics. Two jumpers set primaries voltage.
I'm out of Rikens 1k5 and the closest replacement is Kiwame, it sounds basically the same.
Rikens are out of production, and this particular value will not be available any longer. I still have substantial stock of 2k7 resistors though.
The 75R Dale was a temporary substitute. I have 75R Caddocks back in stock now and will send it to you tomorrow.
All red BG N caps should be installed with short pin (or side marked by NONPOLAR print) on +
Attachments
Yes seriously, but only for BG N red jacket caps, the STD caps (black jacket) are regular electrolytics and they must be installed with long pin to +
Going back to N caps, those are non polar and they sound better when short pin is on + (it has to do with inner and outer foil orientation).
Going back to N caps, those are non polar and they sound better when short pin is on + (it has to do with inner and outer foil orientation).
Attachments
I usually send shipping and assembly info through e-mail, I couldn't find your address.
I mentioned the orientation method many times on a forum: http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/sear...64067725&sortby=lastpost&sortorder=descending
Peter
I mentioned the orientation method many times on a forum: http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/sear...64067725&sortby=lastpost&sortorder=descending
Peter
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