Speaking of sounding better...
Way back when I stuffed the boards I used a 1 uF Wima MKS for C1. The top end was a little smeared and the bottom end seemed a bit light. Without total disassembly I was able to add a 3uF Dayton MKS in parallel. The extra capacitance restored the bass response. The top end also cleaned up, at least to the limit of my Oppo BDP-103's analog outputs. Except for limited power, I like this iteration better than my Honey Badger. (Which has that same Wima cap on the input. Hmm something to test). It will be interesting to see how it does when I get my Schiit Momby back.
So, having proven to myself that the quality of the cap used for C1 matters, I'm tempted to try a few others. Unfortunately, (perhaps fortunately) there isn't room for anything bigger than the Daytons because of my old school power supply.
Way back when I stuffed the boards I used a 1 uF Wima MKS for C1. The top end was a little smeared and the bottom end seemed a bit light. Without total disassembly I was able to add a 3uF Dayton MKS in parallel. The extra capacitance restored the bass response. The top end also cleaned up, at least to the limit of my Oppo BDP-103's analog outputs. Except for limited power, I like this iteration better than my Honey Badger. (Which has that same Wima cap on the input. Hmm something to test). It will be interesting to see how it does when I get my Schiit Momby back.
So, having proven to myself that the quality of the cap used for C1 matters, I'm tempted to try a few others. Unfortunately, (perhaps fortunately) there isn't room for anything bigger than the Daytons because of my old school power supply.