I did a fair bit of racing during my teens/ early 20's in production classes, one of the most difficult skills to master is conditioning yourself not to instinctively shut the trottle when the back end loses traction in a corner , if you do it's a 100% guaranteed tank slapper and highside as the tyre regains grip.
Until you've experienced it yourself it's hard imagine just how violent the force can be , looks like you had a close one mr Gimp at least your leathers did their job , i watch loads of bike vids on Youtube and it's shocking how few riders wear the proper gear , many in t shirts and shorts , trainers/sneakers and no gloves .
It might be nice on a hot day but when you're sliding down the road at 70mph on bare skin it only lasts for a few yards before you're down to the bone .
Until you've experienced it yourself it's hard imagine just how violent the force can be , looks like you had a close one mr Gimp at least your leathers did their job , i watch loads of bike vids on Youtube and it's shocking how few riders wear the proper gear , many in t shirts and shorts , trainers/sneakers and no gloves .
It might be nice on a hot day but when you're sliding down the road at 70mph on bare skin it only lasts for a few yards before you're down to the bone .
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I regularly see people riding without any protection.
I realize that the best leathers and helmet can only protect against so much, but I always wear mine.
Leathers are supposed to be safe for more than one slide, but I think I'll buy new ones any way as mine are 18 years old. Synthetics are a definite "replace after one use".
My last helmet was DOT rated, the next one will be SNELL 2015 rated.
And yes, I realize just how lucky I was.
I realize that the best leathers and helmet can only protect against so much, but I always wear mine.
Leathers are supposed to be safe for more than one slide, but I think I'll buy new ones any way as mine are 18 years old. Synthetics are a definite "replace after one use".
My last helmet was DOT rated, the next one will be SNELL 2015 rated.
And yes, I realize just how lucky I was.
HD=Highly Dangerous.
I raced road and velodrome bicycles in my younger days and with good frame geometry and sew ups I wore my front tyres up past the rubber and into the silk side walls.
I also trashed the outer bearing race of a few pedals by daily grounding them mid roundabout....sliding both tyres under power on a pushie takes skill and is good fun !
I had enough sense to never go near motorcycles....I'd be dead by long ago.
I have one friend who still rides a BMW, the rest are full of titanium bits or have departed.
Dan.
I raced road and velodrome bicycles in my younger days and with good frame geometry and sew ups I wore my front tyres up past the rubber and into the silk side walls.
I also trashed the outer bearing race of a few pedals by daily grounding them mid roundabout....sliding both tyres under power on a pushie takes skill and is good fun !
I had enough sense to never go near motorcycles....I'd be dead by long ago.
I have one friend who still rides a BMW, the rest are full of titanium bits or have departed.
Dan.
Yeah, big time.
I was on the way to work chasing a mate who I thought had left before me and looked behind to check the traffic whilst accelerating full power into the back of a car that stalled leaving the lights.
Two broken teeth and a ruined bike....I can still feel the bike crumpling and my teeth shattering and scraping metal off the car's trunk lid.
I still have scars on both hips from laying it over too far at high speed and washing out....happens so quick and the slide is long.
I once grounded a pedal doing a u-turn and high sided myself...that hurt.
A dozen times I might have been dead except for good reflexes and a good handling bike.
Nowadays a gentle ride on cycleways is ample.... but the boy racer still lurks on the fun down hill road corners and curves.
Dan.
New shock absorbers for my front load washing machine. Just finished installing them
I bet you couldn't wait for that job...to be over?
(Sorry, heh.)
I'm probably the last kid on the block around here to have one of these, but I just got my $40 eBay special USB Universal EPROM Programmer. Of course the EPROMs I'm trying to clone are the classic 1702A, which this thing doesn't handle (can't really blame it - those were some weird old chips). So I also got a little USB 8-bit I/O board, which will handle both data and address - only 256 bytes, hee! Finished hacking up a bit of code to talk to the board, now I just have to wire up a socket, and rewire/mod an old brick power supply from an Atari 520ST floppy disk drive to power it up with +5 and -9 (?!). Then to rig up an adaptor board to replace the 1702s in the original equipment with something slightly less ancient from my box of 27XXX types. All this for a one-off project that my client probably cares less about than I do.
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Yes it is, I wanted something small and the addition of FM was nice.
(I rarely listen to FM broadcast, but did want that ability)
I'm probably the last kid on the block around here to have one of these, but I just got my $40 eBay special USB Universal EPROM Programmer. Of course the EPROMs I'm trying to clone are the classic 1702A, which this thing doesn't handle (can't really blame it - those were some weird old chips). So I also got a little USB 8-bit I/O board, which will handle both data and address - only 256 bytes, hee! Finished hacking up a bit of code to talk to the board, now I just have to wire up a socket, and rewire/mod an old brick power supply from an Atari 520ST floppy disk drive to power it up with +5 and -9 (?!). Then to rig up an adaptor board to replace the 1702s in the original equipment with something slightly less ancient from my box of 27XXX types. All this for a one-off project that my client probably cares less about than I do.
If I remember correctly, the 1702(A) requires a high voltage programming pulse of around 25V.
You are correct. This is the main reason I'm replacing the one in the equipment with an adaptor for a more recent design, something that my cute little programmer can actually program.
In addition to its unusual programming requirements, the 1702A needs both +5 and -9V just to make it work for reading, and also doesn't have a ground pin! It was an odd little beast, but we had to start somewhere I guess.
In addition to its unusual programming requirements, the 1702A needs both +5 and -9V just to make it work for reading, and also doesn't have a ground pin! It was an odd little beast, but we had to start somewhere I guess.