Amp Camp Amp - ACA

I have run some distortion and power curves on these various versions
to give some idea of the differences in performance. You will see these
below, and to put it simply, the ACA 1.5 has lower distortion, and with the
24V transformer, more power. Probably the cheapest and most effective
tweak you would ever want.

Any questions, you can post them here.

:)

Hello Nelson and everybody

I have some spare 15000uF/50V spare Capacitor and some solen air core inductors, planned to make Linear Power Supply but I love the SMPS running cooler and smaller size, is it good idea to make a LC or even LCLC power filter stuffed inside the ACA 1.6 Chassis prior feeding 24V SMPS to ACA?
 
Thank you 6L6 for the build guide that helped me managed to build my first DIY kit successfully. I didn't want to say too much prematurely but I have been using it for a week now without issue.

It does make some noise on switch on and off, but it's not loud enough for me to worry and it should be an easy fix if I have to. I am tempted to buy another kit to get more power but it will be a tough decision because when I compared it to my 250 W Parasound amp I couldn't tell a difference at moderate level (70-75 dB) from where I sit.

IMG_20180525_112536.jpg
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Heavy Metal

Here're the heatsinks I'm gonna use (transistors for scale). Salvaged them from a huge thyristor thingie. They're weighing in at 1340g each. One mosfet will be mounted to one heatsink and I'll build two monoblocks.

The 'sinks are mounted to the case using the already present threads (M8!). I've cut out two small rectangles of the case to be able to mount the FETs directly to the heatsink. The scrap pieces came in handy to clamp the transistors to the sink, once again using the already drilled and tapped holes (M6 this time). Heat transfer should be fine.

The amps will be oriented like on the photo when they're finished. I will place some rubber feet or spikes beneath them (2cm or something) to ensure proper ventilation.
 

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The one and only
Joined 2001
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HI have some spare 15000uF/50V spare Capacitor and some solen air core
inductors, planned to make Linear Power Supply but I love the SMPS
running cooler and smaller size, is it good idea to make a LC or even
LCLC power filter stuffed inside the ACA 1.6 Chassis prior feeding 24V
SMPS to ACA?

Yes, it's a good idea.

One thing to keep in mind is that switchers routinely have a circuit that
senses when the load is too much for the supply, and one aspect of that
is sensing current at turn-on with low voltage. This can trigger protection
if there is a large filter capacitor.

Some supplies will charge that cap and then operate normally, and some
will refuse to charge the cap. With any given switcher, the only way to
find out is to try it.

If you want to use a large cap for storage and filtering on the ACA or
any other amp with a SMPS, you can consider a simple circuit which
uses a resistor to slowly charge the cap and a relay which bypasses
the resistor when the cap is charged.

:cheers:
 
strictly subjective - I prefer linear PSU , especially if heavy iron is involved

Ultimately I will build the Linear, I have all the parts ready here, but with Linear I have to accommodate them in extra enclosure, so I will make the ACA working first with SMPS (ordered already with V1.6 Kit) and make some power filtering for SMPS within the ACA Enclosure, so I can play with ACA first and drop the Linear when it's done, so I don't have to rush for finishing the linear, seems a very good plan to play with ACA and try out the difference between Linear and SMPS!
 
One observation: When the amp is used in the balanced configuration - the turn on noise is cancelled. Makes sense when you stop and think about it. The speaker terminals are balanced outputs in that configuration.



Thank you 6L6 for the build guide that helped me managed to build my first DIY kit successfully. I didn't want to say too much prematurely but I have been using it for a week now without issue.

It does make some noise on switch on and off, but it's not loud enough for me to worry and it should be an easy fix if I have to. I am tempted to buy another kit to get more power but it will be a tough decision because when I compared it to my 250 W Parasound amp I couldn't tell a difference at moderate level (70-75 dB) from where I sit.

View attachment 683041
View attachment 683042
 
Thank you for the good news. You have just given me another incentive to go for it. For now, I simply unplug the red RCAs before turning it on, or off. The first time I did that, without perfectly steady hands it caused the speakers to "pop" a little. That's because I forgot about the inverted polarity and pulled the black ones.:)

Before I make my final decision, I would also like to know if there is a more powerful (20-50 W) stereo amp kit, also with similar guide by 6L6 or someone else that I can build.
 
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6L6

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Fully balanced? Of that list, none, though the BA-3 can be made fully balanced, but I would get at least one amp built and under your belt before taking on a BA-3b. (And the Burning Amp series are, in my opinion, still the coolest amps Papa has given the community... :) )

The Aleph J has a differential front-end and it can be driven from a balanced source natively. It's also one of the most beautiful sounding amplifiers available, anywhere.

An F5, or Aleph J, F4, F6, M2x, and the like (as these are all built around the same basic template of PSU requirements and rejected heat, output power, etc...) Can be built for around $600-700. And significantly less than that if you have the ability and equipment to make your own chassis. (Which, let's face it, most people don't...)
 
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Hi SHN,

If you're considering building any of the amps mentioned and machining is not your forte, consider buying a deluxe chassis from the diyaudio store.

One thing I will add to 6L6's answer is that if you're in Canada, you may want to budget more to account for shipping and HST. The two most expensive parts of the amp are the chassis and transformer/power supply and unfortunately the parts for both are heavy and expensive to ship. Not a deal breaker by any means, but just something to keep in mind.

And yes, the Aleph J is really nice and can take a balanced input. In fact, I built mine only with balanced input. :)

Cheers, Dennis
 
Hi SHN,

If you're considering building any of the amps mentioned and machining is not your forte, consider buying a deluxe chassis from the diyaudio store.

One thing I will add to 6L6's answer is that if you're in Canada, you may want to budget more to account for shipping and HST. The two most expensive parts of the amp are the chassis and transformer/power supply and unfortunately the parts for both are heavy and expensive to ship. Not a deal breaker by any means, but just something to keep in mind.

And yes, the Aleph J is really nice and can take a balanced input. In fact, I built mine only with balanced input. :)

Cheers, Dennis

Thanks again Dennis, yes I am in Ontario and am prepared to pay HST, as I did for the ACA 5 W amp. It would have been an easier decision on just getting another ACA (1.6 now) for the fully balanced feature, but I am a little concerned with the resulting lower damping factor especially for 4 ohms speakers. It isn't an issue if I use the subwoofer all the time and crossover at 80 Hz or higher. I can't afford to buy any of the Pass lab or First watt amp but probably can afford the $600 to $700 DIY one plus the cost of a chassis, but really want to try something that is "fully" balanced.
 
Fully balanced? Of that list, none, though the BA-3 can be made fully balanced, but I would get at least one amp built and under your belt before taking on a BA-3b. (And the Burning Amp series are, in my opinion, still the coolest amps Papa has given the community... :) )

The Aleph J has a differential front-end and it can be driven from a balanced source natively. It's also one of the most beautiful sounding amplifiers available, anywhere.

An F5, or Aleph J, F4, F6, M2x, and the like (as these are all built around the same basic template of PSU requirements and rejected heat, output power, etc...) Can be built for around $600-700. And significantly less than that if you have the ability and equipment to make your own chassis. (Which, let's face it, most people don't...)

Thank again for your help. Does your estimated $600-$700 (I assume USD) include a suitable chassis? Also, I have only built one amp, the ACA 1.5 kit so do you think the F5 won't be too difficult if I follow your build guide to the letter/photo? If I were to do the F5, I may want to use a 600 VA transformer instead of the 400 VA shown in the guide, do you know where I can get it from?

Sorry about so many questions but I am totally new to this, just retire and never had time for hobbies before.:)
 
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$600-700 USD budget should include a chassis.
If you are interested in building the F5, I suggest you read the F5 manual,
which includes the original F5 project article published in audioxpress.

http://www.firstwatt.com/pdf/prod_f5_man.pdf

along with the F5 turbo article (the PCBs in the store matches this revised version):

http://www.firstwatt.com/pdf/art_f5_turbo.pdf

If you want a 600VA transformer you can get one from Antek:

AN-6218 - 600VA 18V Transformer - AnTek Products Corp

Shipping is a fair bit. You might try contacting
Sumr/Primrose (Primrose Audio - toroid power transformers for audio builders) in Toronto to see if they
they can build a custom transformer for you.