Amp Camp Amp - ACA

What a beautiful build! Very nice! You must share with us your sonic impressions versus the Dennis Had designs you have in your system.

Bravo!

Anand.

I guess I have to subscribe to the common opinion about the solid state / tube contrast. The ACA is clean, lively, dynamic while the Inspire is relaxed, musical, pleasing. But this contrast is different than I've thought of it in the past. I think the difference is in Class A vs. A/B or later. That easy on the ears quality exists with both. I can't say that one is better than the other, but I can say I am enjoying the hell out the ACA monos!
 
PASS ACA amp camp amplifier project. diyAudio Store's ACA kit for 8w monos and a pair of 24v torroidal power supples. Chassis based on the power supply boxes, raised with heat sink from diy for the amp stage. Silver hookup wire in the signal path. Poplar faceplate and top with tea soak to bring out the grain and add black to the brown (it really works!) then Minwax ebony stain and gloss poly.

Thanks to all here for the help along the way for this total newbie. The sound is really way above what I expected. I did this to learn and just get a bit of a sense of the First Watt sound. Impressed with the stock build, I moved to a 24v switching supply. The sound improved noticeably. So I went for the linear supplies. I didn't expect to make these keepers, but they surely are!

Lovely build!

-D
 
PASS ACA amp camp amplifier project. diyAudio Store's ACA kit for 8w monos and a pair of 24v torroidal power supples. Chassis based on the power supply boxes, raised with heat sink from diy for the amp stage. Silver hookup wire in the signal path. Poplar faceplate and top with tea soak to bring out the grain and add black to the brown (it really works!) then Minwax ebony stain and gloss poly.

Thanks to all here for the help along the way for this total newbie. The sound is really way above what I expected. I did this to learn and just get a bit of a sense of the First Watt sound. Impressed with the stock build, I moved to a 24v switching supply. The sound improved noticeably. So I went for the linear supplies. I didn't expect to make these keepers, but they surely are!

And say hi to Andy, our 13 year old Rottweiler/German Shepard mix.

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Very nice build. Loved it.

I'm also planning to build a wooden cabinet for my diy amps.

Could anyone please share any thoughts on fixing phono RCA socket onto 19mm plywood?

Thanks,
Saikat

Sent from a handheld device. Some typos may creep in.
 
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I am getting ready to mount stuff to my heatsinks, should I use Loctite or are lock washers sufficient? If Loctite, what color do people prefer?
Also, in pictures on the build guides there appears to be oversized washers on the bolts for the mosfets. Probably stupid to ask if they are necessary, as I'm guessing they wouldn't be there if they weren't. Are they for extra heat dissipation or mounting security?
Thanks,
Doug
 
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I don't use loctite, just split lockwashers. I figure they give "spring loading" to accommodate thermal cycling as well as keep the nuts from loosening. I use the split lockwashers and those Nylock nuts that have inserts which keep them from loosening which is probably overkill.

The big fender washers are to distribute the load clamping the MOSFETS to avoid damage. They aren't necessary probably if you don't overtighten the bolts , but exactly what is overtightrned?Nelson uses them in his amps so we do too in the kits. You do need some type of washer though.

Mark
 
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All the parts should have arrived while I'm out of town (already completed the board), so I'll be assembling and (hopefully) firing up the ACAs this weekend. I'll run with the 19.5v / 6A Dell power brick for now, but may do a linear supply using an σ11 PSU board and 24VDC toroidal transformer for ***** & giggles.

-D
 
I am building an ACA with two large heatsinks. Each sink has two aca boards with a look toward trying each pair of boards bridged to power my Altec 605B open baffles (16 ohms). I have built a PS box around a Meanwell se-350-24 module (14.6 amps at 24VDC).

It works fine connected directly to the amps, but, because it might be good to isolate one bridged channel from the other a little bit, I put a 20 mhy coil on the PS output followed by a 15K ufd cap. The coils are Erse SuperQ with .554 ohms resistance. The power supply comes up then drops down fairly quickly and then shuts down. I took the coil out of the circuit, and all works well with just the cap. So I doubt it has anything to do with short circuit protection in the Meanwell. Are there any trick that might prevent this seeming instability with the coil in place?

Thanks,

Skip
 
All the parts should have arrived while I'm out of town (already completed the board), so I'll be assembling and (hopefully) firing up the ACAs this weekend. I'll run with the 19.5v / 6A Dell power brick for now, but may do a linear supply using an σ11 PSU board and 24VDC toroidal transformer for ***** & giggles.

-D

As I am lazy and don't want to read all 300+ pages in this thread while I'm on vacation, are there any other changes that need to be made when you switch from 19VDC to 24VDC? Do you still set the bias to see 10VDC on the middle pin of Q1?

Thanks,

-D
 
ACA better then F5 ??

While I'm trying to replace and organize internal wires in my F-5, I did something stupid and smoked mosfets. While waiting for new parts I connected ACA.

The thing is; I'm not sure about repairing F5 anymore. Don't get me wrong, but ACA monoblocks sounds way better than my F5 IMO. I'm using fairly sensitive speakers btw (~96dB) . Maybe I did some mistakes while building F5, or my speakers mate better with ACA. I really don't know...

In the meantime, I tried BA3-FE with ACA. Just incredible...

I agree starbender....my first impression with F5 is that ACA sounds much better even though it is just 6W per channel and F5 is 25W...after setting 0.6V bias on output resistors @ 25V using a 300VA transformer...but I thought it was only me who felt it this way..

I am going to build a BA3-FE and then reconsider my view...
 
No J111 replacements....

@ mbrennwa

Look post 105 of this thread : Zen Mod share a 30v variation :).



2sk170bl received today :D. I remove the j111 and put them instead ...
Every things is OK now .... Q1 drain set to 11.50V (VCC 23.0V). Tested with fountek fe85 in iBIB enclosure : the sound is really intesresting. Now I can start the O2 :p.

Conclusion : j111 is not a remplacement for 2sk170 in this build ... :rolleyes:

Thanks again to every for the help (and Mr Pass for this design) :cool:


:( just when I started to have hopes....
 
As I am lazy and don't want to read all 300+ pages in this thread while I'm on vacation, are there any other changes that need to be made when you switch from 19VDC to 24VDC? Do you still set the bias to see 10VDC on the middle pin of Q1?

Thanks,

-D

Never mind. Found this:

Zachary,

See posts:
2759
2761
2763
2779
2780
2869
2870

This question comes up a lot. Is there any way the moderators can make it a sticky on the very 1st post of this thread?

Best,
Anand.

-D