Alpine 3502 not turning on?

Did you try to measure the voltage?

If the cap is in the right way, ripple current or voltage are the only two things likely to cause the cap to fail. The cap is in parallel with the rail caps so, unless they're open, I don't think it's ripple current.

If the transistor opened the BE junction, that's more reason to use the TIP. The MJE is rated for less current than the original.
 
thank you for all your help. I am done with this amplifier. the configuration and the sandwich type boards and having to unsolder everything is very tedious. the fact that every time I want to look at something I need to unsolder 4 output transistors and 2 thermisters is a pain in the butt. I should have left it alone!! I purchased a pair of these on eBay. 1 still works, but I won't be attempting to mess with that one. obsolete parts are another factor I just don't want to deal with.
 
You could have used temporary heatsinks (1" x 3/8" aluminum stock, insulated with Kapton tape, and binder clips) and extended the wires.

You may not be able to get identical replacement parts but that doesn't make it un-repairable (not generally).

Don't throw it out. You may change your mind.
 

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Hi Perry, I was never able to check for voltage. Pieces of the capacitor that exploded ended up stuck to an output transistor and started to smoke. the output transistor was not damaged lucky for me. After replacing 2 resistors and the 2sc2824 ... I now have a working amplifier I've played music through for 3 days. thanks again for your help... I will now attempt to recap fearlessly the 2nd amplifier.
 
I could have sworn this was an electronics/engineering class. Any idea what the altering of the voltage and current might add to amplifier? These are very direct readings to take from an amplifier. I read the beginning comment on yellow wire being used. How was that not enough to power up the amplifier? Which would be from the radio/ignition, then from the battery itself.